yep...... another extreme idea

[extreme-4x4]

while on my quest for the best truck i can make, ive stumbled across a few problems. ie the steering bends and the front suspension is very limited in movement and lift ability

could someone explain how a torsion bar works, and if when lifting the front we are putting the torsion bar under more strain in the lifting possess

also when lifted 2" at front to level the truck are we making a new angle that perhaps is not as strong. see the trouble i get is the idler always bends in exactly the same way and the same amount. its like it wants to be in that position.

now bluebull looked into a kit that should fix all this. not sure if he did it ..


but i have a plan ... what if we /i add a bar that matches the holes that hold the front A things on. what if we lower that down 2" ? would that give me my correct angles back

im going to re bush the whole lot on the front so thought of this before i spend out on it all.


thoughts please

 

[elty001]

blue bell did fit the kit at a cost of a couple of grand
i know what you are saying about the front end being limited.
since doing the lift on mine i found i have run out of droop travel.not had a problem with the steering idler but i,m not running on 35"tyres which could be the source of your problem:nenau.
i was going to have a go at lowering the front diff and all associated steering and suspension parts but there looks to be alot of work and this is my only vehicle at the mo so need to get a cheap run about before i can take it off the road to do any major work.

 

[Deleted account DD]

Rather than regurgitate in different words, not bad explanations here:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/steering4.htm

http://www.carbibles.com/suspension_bible.html


Essentially you just need a stronger one......I think :nenau

I've read about variable ones bending too much and even breaking. Perhaps youre next step on from that?


and tucked down the left column:

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/131_0306_torsion_bar_springs/index.html

 

[extreme-4x4]

elty i have a spare in the garden , also for a few weeks i have a spare truck so the red one is usable for experiments.


it used to bend on 31" tyres ok its easier now on 35's but im still not convinced its just the wheels it only ever bends back once it bent slamming the brakes on and locking the wheels up in a straight line.

i just think its the angles wrong not the wheels

i need to correct the angles

 

[extreme-4x4]

wishbones was what i was looking for


so make something that puts them back right

 

[Darwin]

if your bending the steering arm under breaking that suggests to me that you have front to back movement on the front wheels , either worn bushes or weak / twisted wishbones.

I havent bent mine yet under normal driving I am running 32" tyres

 

[Terranosaurus]

Are you using genuine Nissan Idlers or the ones from Milners, which in my experience don't fit properly and definitely cause steering issues.

You could always allow the suspension to move then the steering wouldn't have to take up all the movement that the shock absorbers are susposed to control - big bump stop, hmmmm.


The kit blue bull has lowers everything down, all the front end and suspension cross members etc including the one at the back of the torsion bars.

Torsion bars are just springs, wouldn't matter if you had coils, bars or leafs, its the geometry of the twin wishbone set up thats the issue with additional travel etc. They are not under anymor strain as they are still supporting the same weight vehicle, on full travel tey will be deflecting more obviously though. Its a similar effect to using coil spring spacers, you are just changing the static positioning of the spring.

If you move the lower wishbone down without moving the rest you will invariably mess up the geometry, steering ackerman will be thrown out as will dynamic camber and castor control.

 

[extreme-4x4]

only using nissan idlers now, milners bend wayyyyyy to easy

so i can move the wishbones down

i recon there is enough play in the torsion bar to just let the front end down leave the back as is

i can get longer shocks or space them down.


so that just leaves the upper wishbone type things ?how can i get that right ???


also new bushes all over the front, any ideas where to get them ?
(milners are limited )

also my front bump stops are only 1/4 " longer so i still have movement . that 1/4" only restricts the wheel going up about an inch and i still have full down motion


its odd cos if it was the wheels causing it to bend i recon the idler would bend left or right not straight back the same every time the same bend and everything


its either bushes or the angles. if i can do both i wont be throwing money away
plus if its doable i could go up to 4" spring lift