Which Antifreeze-Red or Blue?

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Can use either, just need to change blue ever 2 years, red every 5 i think.
 
cheers Zipster! ill get that, cant believe how cheap it is. I think I already have red, though it clearly needs a flushing!

right, im off to the shops!
 
I have posted this before, but since you can only get half of the old antifreeze out, when only dropping the bottom rad hose, several fills are required, fill run, drain etc

first drain will leave 50% of the old antifreeze
second, 25%
third 12.5%
fourth approx 6 %
fifth approx 3%
sixth, approx 1.5 %
etc etc, basically halving the concentration each time.
Total quantity is 10 litres, so you will need 5 litres of concentrated to give 50% strength, which will give you the best concentration.

Red or blue (green), I know Red lasts longer in the system than blue, but not sure about the mixed metals compatibility.

Rustic
 
I read somewhere that red/pink antifreeze was made for modern engines, something to do with organics (OAT) and that you should not use it in older engines, as it can attack the internals.
I will try and find it.
 
Here you go, not sure if this will be a problem in our cars though....

When we buy antifreeze for our cherished old cars we go for the best; well, I did and perhaps mistakenly so. You see them on the shelf and look for the one that says it will give you the best protection. We look to “compliant with BS 6580 suitable for all cars from 1990 onwards, complies with (various) manufacturers safe standards” with the best in-car life of, say, five years. And, not forgetting the price, it’s three pounds or so more expensive than the bottom shelf stuff, so it must be good. And then we tip it in - bad move! Let’s look further; until this year the labeling was not so explicit and that’s when I started looking, thanks to prompting from Uxbridge and District Classic Vehicle Society (U&DCVS) and to the Rolls Royce Enthusiasts’ Club. I had in my cars, Austins from 1926 onwards and the 1966 3. 8 Jag, the so called “best stuff” and it was orange. And that’s the first clue: I had one of the old containers, but scant information was given as to what was inside apart from the usual complies to BS this and that, approved by various associations and a warning not to drink it or pour it down the drains. Going to the various motor part factors I was surprised at the lack of knowledge or information and all but one recommended it for my cars as being the “best stuff”. Only at Halfords where a little girl said “hold on I don’t know, but I will ask my technical department on Monday”. Monday came and just after the lunch break she called back. The answer “Don’t use it, it will strip various alloys out of the lead solder, lead bushes etc, it’s only meant for very modern cars!” Well there you are. So, in older cars where lead, lead solder, lead alloy bushes, graphite/lead water pump lubricated rope are used, expect trouble. One to avoid is “Organic Acid Technology” (OAT); they are normally orange. They are longer lasting, having an in-car life of five years and are cheaper to make. Another one to avoid is the “Hybrid Organic Acid Technology” (HOAT) antifreeze: Daimler/Chrysler’s one is orange and Ford’s is yellow. Also avoid the “Nitrate Organic Acid Technology” for as it says it’s an OAT with Nitrates added. The one to use in our older cars is, and this is supported by Halfords technical department, the older “INORGANIC ADDITIVE TECHNOLOGY” (IAT) ANTIFREEZE, normally blue in colour and often referred to as “conventionally inhibited”. It has only a two year in-car life and is normally ETHYLENE GLYCOL (EG) BASED.

All the above are BS 6580 compliant. Apparently the OAT antifreezes will also attack conventional silicon gasket sealing compounds, Hylomar and its derivatives, the traditional rubber and fabric based water hoses and so on. There is one downside in using EG based antifreezes, they are very toxic. 30ml can be fatal in adults and 4ml will kill a cat! If you want to be safe, green and environmentally friendly you should use a Propylene Glycol The U&DCVS suggest Fernox Alphi II, but I have not come across any of this stuff. Apparently it can be obtained from plumbers merchants.*

A post script; you are advised not to put either the AIT or the OAT antifreezes down the drains, so I called my local domestic refuse tip and asked where I can safely dispose of the old stuff; they had no idea whatsoever of what I was talking about.
 
I have posted this before, but since you can only get half of the old antifreeze out, when only dropping the bottom rad hose, several fills are required, fill run, drain etc

first drain will leave 50% of the old antifreeze
second, 25%
third 12.5%
fourth approx 6 %
fifth approx 3%
sixth, approx 1.5 %
etc etc, basically halving the concentration each time.
Total quantity is 10 litres, so you will need 5 litres of concentrated to give 50% strength, which will give you the best concentration.

Red or blue (green), I know Red lasts longer in the system than blue, but not sure about the mixed metals compatibility.

Rustic

cheers rustic, ill buy a couple of 5 ltr bottles to be sure, as I may as well flush it through as best I can.
 
I read somewhere that red/pink antifreeze was made for modern engines, something to do with organics (OAT) and that you should not use it in older engines, as it can attack the internals.
I will try and find it.

I think red will be fine. Despite these being older engines, I think they are modern enough for the red OAT coolant. The ones I have seen are Ethylene glycol based, and the manual states that or equivalent. As mine is 2003, and the OAT technology has been around a little while now im hoping it will be fine!
 
Don't mix the older type anti freeze with the OATs stuff as the react & can cause damage:doh i've just binned 3L of OAT anti freeze I had to get for my disco as there is no way I was going to chance it in the T2:augie
 
Fernox Alphi 11 is what I have used for 20 years in solar systems, it has a 20 year life in a sealed system and is compatible with all metals, had not considered it for the T2, maybe I should, Rick
 
Fernox Alphi 11 is what I have used for 20 years in solar systems, it has a 20 year life in a sealed system and is compatible with all metals, had not considered it for the T2, maybe I should, Rick

I hadn't realised that there was a central heating inhibitor that had antifreeze.
When I plumbed in our conservatory radiators, I fitted isolating valves under the floor with an access panel, with a couple of vents to help drain the feed pipes, and two drain off points in the conservatory, to completely empty it, should we say went away fror Christmas.
I could have used some of this, but quite expensive for 5 litres.
I would probably need quite a lot, I think we have 17 radiators all together.
Maybe this is the reason it is not used in cars.
Cars do work at higher pressures and temperatures, but I couldn't see anything in the data sheets to say its suitability either way.

Rustic
 
Don't mix the older type anti freeze with the OATs stuff as the react & can cause damage:doh i've just binned 3L of OAT anti freeze I had to get for my disco as there is no way I was going to chance it in the T2:augie

Really? So definitely flush the system then?
 
ok, researching this is driving me mad!! this is the antifreeze i bought

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triple-QX...ants_Fluids&hash=item4d15df6620#ht_2369wt_987

everything reads OK until it says its OAT. I cant confirm if the TD27 engine meets those standards listed in the description!!

does anyone know?

I asked about the type of coolant that Nissan recommends in my 3.0 engine (can't remember the type) as it stated this is the best for my engine, I had a look for the correct type and it was quite expensive, any way, I had my coolant done at the dealers as it only cost me £50 and I now have what the makers recommend.
As far as OAT goes, I would stick with the blue glycol stuff for these engines.
 
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whats confused me, is that i have red/pink in there now....!
 
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yeah, but is it ok to go in the engine? thats what im trying to find out!
 
yeah, but is it ok to go in the engine? thats what im trying to find out!

Why not phone your nearest dealer and see what they say, the stuff in my engine is not red/orange or pink.
I know our vehicles are not classic old, but how old is the design of the engine ??
Look at British Leyland, Ford and other makers, they used engines for many years in different " new models".
These new coolants may be fine for modern engines, but how old a design are the 2.7 and 3.0 :nenau:nenau
 
We had an Austin Ambassador for over 13 years from new, and at one time I used antifreeze that was cheap and cheerful, a few years later a core plug rotted through, I'm not sure if it was related to the antifreeze, or just time, but I was surprised it happened.
Replacing the core plug was a doodle though, screwdriver through it, then an open ended spanner into the hole and it levered out a treat. Hammered the new one in.. top up with new antifreeze, job done.
So selecting the correct antifreeze is important.


So what are the consequences of say exceeding the two year life of bog standard antifreeze, I bet quite a few of us have lost track of when it was last done.:doh

Will it be... won't give protection against severe frost? Easily tested take a sample in a plastic bottle, then place in the freezer.:nenau Caution.. Poisonous...
Won't continue to give corrosion protection? or both?
 
well, i still havent filled it up with this new red stuff, i still need to call NIssan. However, i have been flushing the system through (only on the third run) and i decided to empty the expansion tank. Turns out the coolant isnt red/pink, its brown. even more odd, there is what I can only describe as clay in there too, quite a big lump. So in fact the coolant is brown.

I have removed the expansion tank and cleaned, and flushed thr rad which is now clean. I just need to get the system flushed now then replace with nice coolant - but WHICH?!!

ill let you know what NIssan say, if anything...
 

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