waxoyl
- Thread starter leo23
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Dodge
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hi leo23 yes I have used waxoyl on a classic car that I used to have and found it to be a great rust preventer. If you are going to apply this in cold weather then stand the tin of waxoyl in some hot water, it makes life a lot easier.
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Waxoyl brilliant stuff, I always keep a jam jar full ready to seal the odd rust spot. Works a treat on sump plugs...
I coated all my metal brake and fuel pipes from new. All still perfect.
I coat the rear of the wheel cylinders, when I replaced one a couple of years ago it came apart easily.
Watch you don't get the waxoyl on rubber based items, tyres, brake pipes, it seems to swell the rubber, not sure if this is harmful, but seems ok when dried ! Also keep it off the brake discs and exhaust.
If you use waxoyl under the bonnet, it does tend to run out when the engine gets hot especially in the summer.
If you want to wipe waxoyl off, just use white spirit (turps sustititute)
Also good for electrical connections, plugs sockets, rear light clusters.
If you use it in the wheel arches, be prepared to re-coat every year I guess, as it is a high wash area. (5 minute job)
Don't block the drain holes with it though otherwise you will create more problems.
I even used it on the rear suspension joints on the anti-roll bar that used to squeek like anything in the summer, cured that problem straight away.
I coated all my metal brake and fuel pipes from new. All still perfect.
I coat the rear of the wheel cylinders, when I replaced one a couple of years ago it came apart easily.
Watch you don't get the waxoyl on rubber based items, tyres, brake pipes, it seems to swell the rubber, not sure if this is harmful, but seems ok when dried ! Also keep it off the brake discs and exhaust.
If you use waxoyl under the bonnet, it does tend to run out when the engine gets hot especially in the summer.
If you want to wipe waxoyl off, just use white spirit (turps sustititute)
Also good for electrical connections, plugs sockets, rear light clusters.
If you use it in the wheel arches, be prepared to re-coat every year I guess, as it is a high wash area. (5 minute job)
Don't block the drain holes with it though otherwise you will create more problems.
I even used it on the rear suspension joints on the anti-roll bar that used to squeek like anything in the summer, cured that problem straight away.
leo23 said:
Nope, yeah and think not in that order. I bought two 5 litre cans of the black stuff a couple of years back to Waxoyl the Trooper I had - but it never happened, for one reason or another. I also picked up half a dozen big aerosols of underseal with Waxoyl for the wheel arches.
I'm planning to use this lot on the Troll when the weather gets a bit warmer. I suspect this is going to be the messiest job I've ever tackled.
Cheers
Andrew
wildbri
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- Feb 11, 2007
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I have a can of the clear stuff, very useful I brush it on anything exposed, because its clear you can use it anywhere. I stopped my rear door leaking by painting the door seal with it and If it is warmed until its a liquid it can be used to seal leaking car and caravan window seals, just pour it where its leaking and it soon sets and makes it water tight.....bri
S
seven
Guest
hi
i used it for 7years on my morris it has kept the underside in good nick in spite of going through cow muck in summer daily & salt roads in winter.
M.O.T. station still say its good & solid .
use it now on chassis /body mounts on terrano as paints a bit flaky there on mine & round wheel arches esp. coz of the muck.
rate it well
does need to be kept warm so I leave it as a summer job
Mike
i used it for 7years on my morris it has kept the underside in good nick in spite of going through cow muck in summer daily & salt roads in winter.
M.O.T. station still say its good & solid .
use it now on chassis /body mounts on terrano as paints a bit flaky there on mine & round wheel arches esp. coz of the muck.
rate it well
does need to be kept warm so I leave it as a summer job
Mike
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- Feb 25, 2005
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- 1,409
I used it on my T2, I got the spray stuff for inside chassis etc and the brush on for the outside and it stops rust in its tracks :smile:
I once coated a piece of shiny bare metal with an aerosol can of the
stuff and it did not rust
I once coated a piece of shiny bare metal with an aerosol can of the
stuff and it did not rust
davemud
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- Jun 23, 2005
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HI guys used it on the T2 back in 2003 still like new underneath i used 2 x 5l Tins of waxoyl back then. I then coated the inner wheel arches with the paint-on under seal as well......
Just started to do some work on the New Patrol I Had the rear bumper off to fit new Tow-bar and while there noticed some rust so i Waxoyled the rear rails and cross members, I Now need to get another couple of cans (when the weather gets better)
Messy Job and No one sees it but boy does it look good underneath, plus it will stops all the nuts and bolts rusting so routine repairs and maintenance is a lot easer.....
Just started to do some work on the New Patrol I Had the rear bumper off to fit new Tow-bar and while there noticed some rust so i Waxoyled the rear rails and cross members, I Now need to get another couple of cans (when the weather gets better)
Messy Job and No one sees it but boy does it look good underneath, plus it will stops all the nuts and bolts rusting so routine repairs and maintenance is a lot easer.....
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No not really, but any loose material is best removed.leo23 said:
It even dispels water. It can be painted directly on to rust.
I have always used the clear stuff, always looks black when it picks up the grime anyway.
Nuts bolts all benefit from a coating. I sometimes put waxoyl into blind (open to the rear) holes, eg those going into the chassis and coat the threads, makes them a lot easier to remove.
maidstonemike
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- Feb 26, 2007
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- 50
It helps to have a layer of light dust/dirt for the waxoyl to soak into, it lasts longer.
Used it on my 89 Laurel and when I sold it at 17 years old it was in showroom condition.
Used it on my 89 Laurel and when I sold it at 17 years old it was in showroom condition.
Thinking about doing mine when and if summer ever arrives. Was thinking about having it done by Rustmaster or Before and After but they charge a Whopping £450.00. Although they say they do clean all the underside before application and spray in all box sections and doors etc. they guarantee against rust for 5 years, free anual inspections and free re-application if required
If I do it myself
Just a few questions
To do a proper job do I need to take the wheels off ?
Do I need to take the door panels off
Can you get the probe into the chassis box sections ?
Do I need to drill any holes to gain access to door pillars, sills etc
Any info would be appretiated
If I do it myself
Just a few questions
To do a proper job do I need to take the wheels off ?
Do I need to take the door panels off
Can you get the probe into the chassis box sections ?
Do I need to drill any holes to gain access to door pillars, sills etc
Any info would be appretiated
davemud
Well-known member
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- Jun 23, 2005
- Messages
- 403
hi chaz
would start with giving the under side a good jet wash or if you can steam cleaner to remove as much of the road dirt and muck a possible leave to dry a day.
then get car on axle stands as high as possible (better access) and wheels of you can see a lot better. you will need to remove all the door trim u can,
remove the B pillar trim if you like. you will find under the chassis rubber gromits and bungs re-move these and you will get to the inner seals
Would not do it when really hot, warm the wax oil up first and thin down with white spirit and use the spray lance from halfords cost a fiver.
if its to Hot it will run off very quickly on to the floor and leave a thinner coating
would use the waxoyl under seal on the wheel arches and chassis rails in the wheel area.
Hope that helps
would start with giving the under side a good jet wash or if you can steam cleaner to remove as much of the road dirt and muck a possible leave to dry a day.
then get car on axle stands as high as possible (better access) and wheels of you can see a lot better. you will need to remove all the door trim u can,
remove the B pillar trim if you like. you will find under the chassis rubber gromits and bungs re-move these and you will get to the inner seals
Would not do it when really hot, warm the wax oil up first and thin down with white spirit and use the spray lance from halfords cost a fiver.
if its to Hot it will run off very quickly on to the floor and leave a thinner coating
would use the waxoyl under seal on the wheel arches and chassis rails in the wheel area.
Hope that helps
