The way I do mine is :- Find a piece of level ground with a flat wall that you can get about 25 yards from (I used a multi-storey car park). Park the car facing and square to the wall, measure the distance between the headlights, centre to centre, and the height of the headlights from the floor to the centre. With the engine running (you don't want to flatten your battery) put your lights on main beam. Using the measurements you took make 2 marks on the wall corresponding to the distance apart and the height of the lights, then adjust the lights so that the marks are in the centre of each of the beams. The adjusters nearest the grille adjust the height and the ones nearest the outside adjust the angle. Check first that the bulbs are correctly seated in the reflectors and that the spring retainers are clipped down properly. Sounds complicated but shouldn't take more than 10 mins. Seemples.
You're probably right in that the MOT testers aren't interested in main beam, but I've found that if you get the main beam correct using the method I have described, dip beam will also be correct, but I'm sure either method will do the deed!I try a similar method, on dipped beam, chalk a line or masking tape on the wall when the vehicle is 3 feet away.
As you reverse the beam should go lower until it nearly reaches the floor.
Over a reasonable distance, I have mine so the beam is on the floor at a fair distance giving me better visability over a longer range.
If the beam rises as you reverse, you will need to lower them.
You can also see the beam shape for angular measurement as well.
I don't think MOT are interested in full beam adjustment.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Rustic
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