Trol brake bias.

[makeitfit]

My trol had the misfortune of an MOT refusal the other day
Steering control ends, hey ho 40 quid sorted :thumbs
Number plate light blown, hey ho 50p sorted :thumbs
Rear brakes below level, a long way below, as in not working
I checked the brake bias valve and it's a bit stuffed, as in seized solid :banghead
So a quick call to the motor factors for a price of a new one......................................................................very long pause on the phone........................................some time later the guy says he's sorry but the best thing to do is sit down for a minute :nenau Then he told me the price £440 + vat :surrender
Sod that so I'm now making a brake bias valve fit instead, all of 40 quid :clap
Much better, pics to follow :naughty

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

This will be very interesting, would it also work for members with T2 brake bias problems? :thumb2

 

[makeitfit]

Yerp, exactly the same I reckon :thumb2

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

Yerp, exactly the same I reckon :thumb2

there are enough photos in recent threads to compare :thumb2

 

[solarman216]

What motor did you nick the valve from, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

Fleabay 43 quid :thumb2 Should be here tomorrow, Willwood lever type 7 position type
Just plumbing the pipes by the handbrake somewhere :augie
Work in progress:lol

 

[stinka]

This sounds cool

Do they work with abs ?

 

[makeitfit]

No idea mate, I don't do abs :lol but I doubt it.

 

[makeitfit]

Can someone explain to me "Primary" and Secondary brake lines ? :nenau
I'm putting the bias valve in the primary line but there's a secondary line back to the front of the truck( there's a multi union block there that has all the pipes connected from the servo and returns too) and I'm not sure weather to blank it off or not ?
My plan was to put bias valve in line to the where the load sensor was . Should I put a T in there to join up the secondary line? Seems odd to me:augie
Ta

 

[rayf3262]

Just a thought...
That "multi union block" may contain a balance valve that under normal circumstances allows fluid pressure to move freely between front and rear axles. However, in the event of a sudden pressure drop due to a seal failure on one axle the valve will close shutting off the fluid to the defective axle and maintain hydraulic pressure to the non affected axle. So you still have some brakes left!

 

[solarman216]

T2 brakes are split front and rear at the master cylinder, do not know about secondary line that goes back to the front will have a look in the morning, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

Just a thought...
That "multi union block" may contain a balance valve that under normal circumstances allows fluid pressure to move freely between front and rear axles. However, in the event of a sudden pressure drop due to a seal failure on one axle the valve will close shutting off the fluid to the defective axle and maintain hydraulic pressure to the non affected axle. So you still have some brakes left!

Would be nice but this is old skool trol :lol Seems to be simply a multi connection block. The manual just shows it as that too :nenau
So I'm assuming this theary:
Manual bias adjuster in the line that did go to the sensor valve. Then bin sensor valve for T piece , thus retaining the pipe for what ever reason Nissan decided :thumbs

 

[makeitfit]

So here we go, I started the replumbing today with this table top kit :thumb2

Got some decent pipe instead of nasty rock bashable cooper :augie
Bias valve is a 7 position "Willwood" style thing, so 0 - 60% bias adjustment :sly
Decided to mount it somewhere to the rightof the gear lever as there's loads of room there and the pipes are on the chassis rail below.

Trim off

Drilled a hole for the lever

There you go bolted in

Then trimmed the plastic a bit so I can my fingers round it :thumbs

Front end now plumbed but it started raining before I could finish liberating the old sensor valve, arse
Come in for lashings of -------------Beer :clap
More to follow

 

[solarman216]

very interesting, never seen a manual valve like that, keen to see how well it works, Oh and did not see the bit about it being a trol, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

very interesting, never seen a manual valve like that, keen to see how well it works, Oh and did not see the bit about it being a trol, Rick

It seems to be exactly the same system and may even be the same valve

 

[solarman216]

This will be very interesting, would it also work for members with T2 brake bias problems? :thumb2

I was imagining a load compensating valve like the T2, this is nothing like, so would not do for the T2, to be honest I am surprised that it is OK for the Trol as it is a manual device, giving bias control to the average and less than average driver, (no makeitfit you are not an average driver) but you can see what I mean, I can just imagine me trying to explain to my wife that when she has 2 bags of shopping set it on 2 but when full of kids and pick nick kit set it on 7 but you must remember that when you are on your own set it on 1, yea OK I don't think, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

The sun came out today so I got the rest of the plumbing done AND then all the rest of the crap pipe work that some plum had done in the past :doh
Just as well I did really because even the pipes that looked good were in fact corroding away under all the brake pipe clamps
Here's the T piece where the old compensator was

Here's the front end sorted with new pipe

And the plastic bits all back in place

While I was under the truck I noticed the DiffLock pipes were goosed too, so bent some brake pipe again and refitted accordingly

Started bleeding the air out and the bleeding nipples are goosed too ffs, so there's some things to do tomorrow now :doh

 

[solarman216]

looks good with all them shiny new pipes, but you must tell me more about this manual brake compensating system, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

looks good with all them shiny new pipes, but you must tell me more about this manual brake compensating system, Rick

erm, well I'm just going manual in place of the old auto bias adjuster on cost originally :sly
The lever is just a flow/pressure reducing valve instead of the usual twist knob variant
So with a range of 0-60% I will be experimenting :lol Somewhere in the middle I guess and may for fun zero it, left foot brake and spin up the rears Santa Pod stylee :lol
Also in theory I can fully load the rear brakes and encourage a bit of tail out action on left foot braking sometimes handy on tight bends in the loose :naughty

 

[stinka]

erm, well I'm just going manual in place of the old auto bias adjuster on cost originally :sly
The lever is just a flow/pressure reducing valve instead of the usual twist knob variant
So with a range of 0-60% I will be experimenting :lol Somewhere in the middle I guess and may for fun zero it, left foot brake and spin up the rears Santa Pod stylee :lol
Also in theory I can fully load the rear brakes and encourage a bit of tail out action on left foot braking sometimes handy on tight bends in the loose :naughty

Sounds awesome

Was thinking of a seperate line lock on both rears to use as fiddle brakes