Tow Bar Sockets Nuts and Bolts

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Banshee

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Jul 24, 2012
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Mine have totally seized up to the point where I'm going to have to get the angle grinder out on them

What size replacements do I need to attach them to my new bracket?

Cheers Guys
 
You can buy new bolts from places like Towsure or Go Outdoors but I ended up buying some similar size stainless steel from a bolt specialist nearby.

Oh smear grease around them too and whilst your at it grease the socket on inner and outer too. I've done this for years and not had a problem in all that time.
 
You can buy new bolts from places like Towsure or Go Outdoors but I ended up buying some similar size stainless steel from a bolt specialist nearby.

Oh smear grease around them too and whilst your at it grease the socket on inner and outer too. I've done this for years and not had a problem in all that time.

Thank's mate
 
M16

Length depends on what it is passing through, normally 75mm is the fit it all standard.
 
Not sure If I've led you all up the garden path but I'm on about the nuts and bolts that attach the actual sockets to a bracket like this;

double_sided_twin_towbar_electric_socket_mounting_plate.jpg


Not the bolts that attach the towing ball the the chassis, sorry for the confusion
 
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Just reading and it does sound like there was some confusion. I knew what you were on about dude:clap I stick plenty grease on the threads of both the socket bolts and the tow ball bolts.
 
Just reading and it does sound like there was some confusion. I knew what you were on about dude:clap I stick plenty grease on the threads of both the socket bolts and the tow ball bolts.

All well and good if I can find some replacement ones lol
 
I braved the cold last night in a T-Shirt in an attempt to acclimatise myself for Iceland next week lol and decided to get the angle grinder out in an attempt to free my sockets from the metal plate that had previously been holding them on until the weld snapped when I was out off-roading lol

Managed to get them attached nicely with the new nuts and bolts and a nice helping of grease and even treated the tow ball to a nice splodge of grease too :D

Just need to find some plastic nut caps to go over the bolts that hold the ball onto the chassis now as I've broken a couple and the M12 ones I purchased on eBay are too big however not all is lost as the are the perfect size to go onto my bumpstops on the front to stop the knocking in full lock when reversing :thumb2

The end result
20130221_202050.jpg


Another job ticked off the ever growing list lol
 
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Shouldn't the sockets be on the RHS - unless your truck is left hand drive ...:nenau. just makes it easier to plug and unplug without reaching over the towbar ... especially if you're clumsey like me and drop the plugs on the floor out of reach. Other wise you've got to walk round. :doh
 
Shouldn't the sockets be on the RHS - unless your truck is left hand drive ...:nenau. just makes it easier to plug and unplug without reaching over the towbar ... especially if you're clumsey like me and drop the plugs on the floor out of reach. Other wise you've got to walk round. :doh

Good point but every car I see has them on the left and these were on the left as standard too so that's how I re attached them
 
All the cars I have ever had, have had them on the Left, even the factory fit ones.

The only time I have seen a socket on the right, is when you have both N and S sockets, and sometimes they put the Grey one on the right. Perfect if you are a symmetry freak like me, and want the towbar to be uniform about the centre line.

Anyway, why walk round, you just step over.. unless you are really short, then you just limbo under...:lol

Better still, if you train the other half properly, they can do it for you...:lol
 
Also depends on the set up of your stabiliser if you tow a caravan too. Also checkout the picture of the socket mounting bracket with one at either side too. Think you have them at the most convenient side foe your setup.
 
All the cars I have ever had, have had them on the Left, even the factory fit ones.

The only time I have seen a socket on the right, is when you have both N and S sockets, and sometimes they put the Grey one on the right. Perfect if you are a symmetry freak like me, and want the towbar to be uniform about the centre line.

Anyway, why walk round, you just step over.. unless you are really short, then you just limbo under...:lol

Better still, if you train the other half properly, they can do it for you...:lol

You'll have a job stepping over a RHIB trailer with the winch post, jockey wheel, spare wheel and the spare wheel on the back door of the truck.
Many have tried and rendered their wedding tackle out of use for a while. :lol it's the jockey handle that gets them!

You can open the back door enough to reach in, any more than you'll have to uncouple!!
 
You'll have a job stepping over a RHIB trailer with the winch post, jockey wheel, spare wheel and the spare wheel on the back door of the truck.
Many have tried and rendered their wedding tackle out of use for a while. :lol it's the jockey handle that gets them!

You can open the back door enough to reach in, any more than you'll have to uncouple!!

I had this issue lol, had to uncouple the trailer before I could get in the back door enough to pull out what I needed lol
 
We are OK on the caravan, I can step through between the wheel and jockey wheel, and I can open the door enough to get to stuff, but if we needed anything serious, like the jack, then the van would have to come off as my err... ample frame would not be able to reach through that far... Shoulders are OK, just the belt buckle would catch...:lol.

The small tin trailer, is so close though, there is not enough room to put your hand through the door gap. I was a bit worried it might be too close, but being so light, I can pick it up and put it on Jack knife both ways, and it still misses the spare wheel, so I am OK with it. I just step over behind the jockey wheel.
 

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