t2 lift kit

Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum

Help Support Nissan 4x4 Owners Club Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

big_al

Active member
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
38
i'm looking to buy a lift kit for my terrano 2, i was just wondering is there different types, what are disadvantages/advantages of fitting them??
 
i'm looking to buy a lift kit for my terrano 2, i was just wondering is there different types, what are disadvantages/advantages of fitting them??

Body lift.....no suspension or running gear issues, just need to extend a couple of hoses I think.

Or suspension lift, will alter suspension geometry a bit.....

These trucks will plough through a lot, so seriously, unless you are trialling the bloody thing, winding the torsion bars up til the front is almost (bit not quite) level with the back and fitting some decent bigger tyres will get you through just about anything.
 
Body lift is a doddle to do mate and mucho cheap :thumb2
You just need some nylon bar cut into 50mm lengths, drill a hole in them and bingo :D Nice n cheap too:thumbs OR you can do the suspension lift thing but you'll struggle to get extra length springs at the moment:doh
What's your intended use ?
 
I have wondered how you do this.

What size diameter nylon Bar?
Why do you think most companies use aluminium?
Obviously you would need longer mounting bolts. What length?
What is the best way to lift body to slide-in spacers?
Do you end up with a gap between body and bumpers?
Is there cable or pipes etc that can be stretched by lifting body?
With a 50mm body lift. What is the maximum tyre size that can be fitted with no tyre/wheel contact?
I think 15 inch is the best rim diameter. But what rim width and offset is it best to use?
so, a suspension lift of say 50mm will badly affect suspension geometry?
Does a 50mm suspension lift affect prop shaft alignment etc?
Are Khumo KL71 tyres good in mud, as well as quite good on road too?

Thank you...
 
I have wondered how you do this.

What size diameter nylon Bar?
Why do you think most companies use aluminium?
Obviously you would need longer mounting bolts. What length?
What is the best way to lift body to slide-in spacers?
Do you end up with a gap between body and bumpers?
Is there cable or pipes etc that can be stretched by lifting body?
With a 50mm body lift. What is the maximum tyre size that can be fitted with no tyre/wheel contact?
I think 15 inch is the best rim diameter. But what rim width and offset is it best to use?
so, a suspension lift of say 50mm will badly affect suspension geometry?
Does a 50mm suspension lift affect prop shaft alignment etc?
Are Khumo KL71 tyres good in mud, as well as quite good on road too?

Thank you...
Right then I decided to get my arse in gear and do my body lift, it's only been waiting a year or so :augie
So the nylon bar is 80mm dia.
Aluminium ...........:nenau just more available I guess, but more expensive.
Bolts just need to be 50mm longer or whatever the spacer is. In my case I just binned the Nissan ones as their a pain to get hold of. 1.25 metric fine thread x 12mm :doh So I just got ordinary metric bolts and nuts, nice n cheap and avail. off the shelf:thumbs 180mm long.
I just undid all the bolts first and then put the new long ones in loose.
Then jacked up one side first. Drivers side is more fiddly so did that first. You just need to tease the brake pipes a bit to extend their existing coils. Also remember to loosen the steering column spline nuts :augie I forgot at first :lol
Yes you'll have a gap, but you can make new bracketry if you want to realign stuff :rolleyes:
The fuel pipes have just enough spare to allow 50mm lift, as do the brake pipes :thumbs
You'll need to reposition the radiator top brackets, doddle:)
I dont know what the max size would be but guess about 33". If you do a suspension lift aswell , then 35" ;)
I disagree about 15" rims. I prefer 16"s as there's more room for brakes to clear the mud and crap out quickly.
50mm suspension lift does change the steering geometry a bit, but easily corrected.
Prop will be at a steeper angle but not enough to worry about.
KL71s are pretty damn good I reckon. They have the best driving on road and mud ability going, fact :D There are better mud tyres but their a pain on the road . Especially in the wet, and noisy too:eek:
I'm all typed out now :p
PS body lift took me less than 4 hours, and a lot of that was getting my winch and bumper off :doh
 
Right then I decided to get my arse in gear and do my body lift, it's only been waiting a year or so :augie
So the nylon bar is 80mm dia.
Aluminium ...........:nenau just more available I guess, but more expensive.
Bolts just need to be 50mm longer or whatever the spacer is. In my case I just binned the Nissan ones as their a pain to get hold of. 1.25 metric fine thread x 12mm :doh So I just got ordinary metric bolts and nuts, nice n cheap and avail. off the shelf:thumbs 180mm long.
I just undid all the bolts first and then put the new long ones in loose.
Then jacked up one side first. Drivers side is more fiddly so did that first. You just need to tease the brake pipes a bit to extend their existing coils. Also remember to loosen the steering column spline nuts :augie I forgot at first :lol
Yes you'll have a gap, but you can make new bracketry if you want to realign stuff :rolleyes:
The fuel pipes have just enough spare to allow 50mm lift, as do the brake pipes :thumbs
You'll need to reposition the radiator top brackets, doddle:)
I dont know what the max size would be but guess about 33". If you do a suspension lift aswell , then 35" ;)
I disagree about 15" rims. I prefer 16"s as there's more room for brakes to clear the mud and crap out quickly.
50mm suspension lift does change the steering geometry a bit, but easily corrected.
Prop will be at a steeper angle but not enough to worry about.
KL71s are pretty damn good I reckon. They have the best driving on road and mud ability going, fact :D There are better mud tyres but their a pain on the road . Especially in the wet, and noisy too:eek:
I'm all typed out now :p
PS body lift took me less than 4 hours, and a lot of that was getting my winch and bumper off :doh

icon_ths.gif
 

Yeh I know :lol
I've taken a bunch and will do some more . I'll do a write up etc when I get the bumper back on after mods :naughty
It's just an answer to a very long question :doh
Later :cool:
 
Cheers mate, what a great reply.

Good point about the 16 inch rim size. A large amount of people who fit a new wheel tyre package seem to go for 15's.

After a +2 suspension lift what steering geometry do you need to correct?

Looking forward to the pic's...
 
16" tyres have been more expensive in the past but are now about the same for good ones :thumbs
Steering will need camber correction done by adding/removing shim washers behind the top arm. The castor might need doing too, which is a combination of the shim washers on the top arm. OR you can buy Calmini correction arms but I've found them to be a bit heavy on top bushes :doh
Always worth checking the tracking too :cool:
 
16" tyres have been more expensive in the past but are now about the same for good ones :thumbs
Steering will need camber correction done by adding/removing shim washers behind the top arm. The castor might need doing too, which is a combination of the shim washers on the top arm. OR you can buy Calmini correction arms but I've found them to be a bit heavy on top bushes :doh
Always worth checking the tracking too :cool:

want to lift mine so get on with the pics and write up lol
 
There is a write up in the down loads I thought. :lol
I'll do my version but it wil quite different as I have no carpets
or funny plastic bumpers or fan cowls etc ;)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top