Splitting Ball Joints

[11redrex]

Still waiting for some parts, but I started on the track rods today. Couldn't find my splitter, and the shop supplied one left and one right hand thread when I needed both lh thread. One inner and one outer joint marked on MOT fail, so that's what I ordered. Should have got two inners :doh as they're both left hand end of the rods.
Got the passenger side off with lots of hammering, jacking, wedging, swearing, and some more hammering. The other one came off with less hammering but I bent the rod end in the process.
Got to do the drag link as well (if it ever gets here) so my question is - how to split a ball joint with no ball joint splitter ? Seen a method using two hammers, which is fine if you've got room to swing two hammers. Anyone know any other methods ?:nenau

 

[rayf3262]

18" Stilson wrench and gas heat... twist and separate?

 

[kitchenman]

1 lump hammer 1 lever, method, undo the nut about two complete turns, apply downward leverage, hit outer part of female taper joint.

You do NOT hit the nut you hit the part the nut tightens against

This shocks the taper & it all comes apart, then remove the nut, its dark here now, tomorrow I will take a picture.

I learned the trick when I was doing my national service, served me well now & again ever since.

The two hammer trick works well on seized pipework too, [I was a pipe fitter for a while] this needs two lump hammers, hold one firmly against the outer part of the female & hit directly opposite with the other.

I find on ball joints the lever & hammer works better
Pics to follow

 

[11redrex]

thanks for that, no gas here so I'll have a go with the lever. Got a 5 foot crow bar here should do the job :sly

The two hammer method I'd seen involved hitting the outer part on opposite sides at the same time.

 

[makeitfit]

As said above a good size hammer you can use accurately and give the casting a right good twatting :lol If you can see the casting line from the mold, like a line on the metal, hit that. Usually one or two good hits and it's off simples.
NOTE I undo the nut all the way off as it can be a pain to undo it after your ball's all loose :lol

 

[11redrex]

As said above a good size hammer you can use accurately and give the casting a right good twatting :lol If you can see the casting line from the mold, like a line on the metal, hit that. Usually one or two good hits and it's off simples.
NOTE I undo the nut all the way off as it can be a pain to undo it after your ball's all loose :lol

10lb keying hammer should do it. Don't know about the accuracy though

 

[11redrex]

Ball joints all done :thumbs
I can highly recommend the lever and hammer method, saved me so much time today. Thanks to kitchenman for that one.
Got the ARB links done too but the holes in the ARB were enlarged so I was thinking I'd get a new one. Then I found a crack near the mounting hole which the MOT man had missed so I definitely need a new one. The stupid thing is, that end didn't fail the MOT, I was just doing it so both ends were done :doh
He also missed a split in one of the inner track rod end boots, so I had to use the TRE I was going to take back and exchange. Bum, more expense.
Just driven it and thanks to following Solarmans advice the tracking feels spot on. Phew !
Just the brake lines now........