Speedo Issue

[Paff]

I have had a quick search, but can't find any answers.

I have a 2001 T2 and today on the way back from school pick up I noticed that my speedo was stuck at 15mph when I was clearly doing more. Slowing or speeding up made no difference. I pulled over and switched off and restarted the engine, the speedo read not quite zero at stand still and moving off seemed to move up in jerking movements. It didn't read right all the way home.

As it has been working OK/freely ever since I have had it and as it is an electrical speedo, do I assume that it is an electrical fault or a mechanical issue?

Any help would be great as driving 'blind' so to speak is not fun.

 

[solarman216]

is this the digital liquid crystal display style, if so they have issues with dry soldered joints on the board, easy fix if you have good eyes and a good fine point soldering iron, Rick

 

[Paff]

is this the digital liquid crystal display style, if so they have issues with dry soldered joints on the board, easy fix if you have good eyes and a good fine point soldering iron, Rick

Sorry Rick, I should have said. The speedo is the needle type, LCD is just for clock, trip mileage etc.

 

[solarman216]

Ah if you have no drive cable then not one that I know, sorry, rayf is probably the guy to ask, Rick

 

[Paff]

Ah if you have no drive cable then not one that I know, sorry, rayf is probably the guy to ask, Rick

Yeah, I have had the dash out before to try and sort the LCD display out and there is no drive cable, just two connector blocks.

 

[solarman216]

are you sure there is no cable, I ask cos it is not connected until you put console back it just locates as it seats down, Rick

 

[Paff]

are you sure there is no cable, I ask cos it is not connected until you put console back it just locates as it seats down, Rick

Defo no cable...

See photee of back of cluster.

 

[solarman216]

then not one I have come across so no idea, but to be fair that is only a part of the cluster, let me see all of it, Rick

 

[rayf3262]

It could be the hub of the speedo pointer binding on the overlay behind.
Check the clearance behind the needle hub and the overlay. Ambient temperature can have a significant influence in making the behaviour appear somewhat random..

 

[jonela]

then not one I have come across so no idea, but to be fair that is only a part of the cluster, let me see all of it, Rick

Hi Rick,It's the same as the one on my 2000SE+ that you repaired for me when you were over here.(no cable) Mine was just the LCD solder joints,but could be same problem but on speedo joints,or just bad connection on one of the multi plugs. John

 

[Paff]

This morning all was well with the speedo, work right :doh

Will have to see how it goes, thanks for your replies :thumb2

 

[Mobieus_uk]

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?p=280586#post280586

 

[bonesXU1]

I have had this problem for a couple of years now and had the clocks out a couple of times and still can't get it sorted, iv'e checked and the bulbs are standard so no heat issues and behind the needle isn't close to the backing speedo face.
I've cleaned the connectors behind the speedo and put conductive grease on them and on the switch on the gearbox too. If you bang on the dash the needle will fall or go up to where it is at the desired speed, not ideal having to drive and bang the dash when the Police are behind you. :nenau

 

[elty001]

Mine does it now and then but only ever on long journeys,I just use sat nav when it acts up.

 

[DAVEWALTON]

dash clock not working

Ive took the display out everything looks fine, checked all soldered joints all seem ok. ive disconnected my battery of 12 hours. thinking i need to replace the whole unit, but just asking, if theres anything else i could do

 

[solarman216]

Ive took the display out everything looks fine, checked all soldered joints all seem ok. ive disconnected my battery of 12 hours. thinking i need to replace the whole unit, but just asking, if theres anything else i could do

not good enough you need to re-solder all the joints on the board, Rick

 

[rustic]

not good enough you need to re-solder all the joints on the board, Rick

I agree with Rick, you could spend a lot of time inspecting every joint looking for the tell tale black circle that signifies a dry joint, but that takes much longer than redoing each and every joint.
Watch out for any solder whiskers that can short out two adjacent connections.
Invest in a solder sucker, and avoid desolder braid, even in the hands of an expert, can result in the copper tracks lifting from the board.:thumb2

Spot the dry joint in this picture...
There are two, but when will the others fail?

 

[Paff]

So are we talking re-solder EVERY joint on the PCB or just the straight line in the middle for the LCD issue?

 

[rustic]

So are we talking re-solder EVERY joint on the PCB or just the straight line in the middle for the LCD issue?

STOP JUST THERE.......

You are right, not every joint...
The integrated chips that have pins 0.1 mm apart... keep well away from them, also the SMD devices, the little chips, resistors, capacitors etc that are surface mounted on that side of the board.

Best to only do legs that come through the board, like LCD display, connectors, big components etc.

Phew...you could have wrecked all chances of ever repairing the board.

SMD devices ( surface mounted devices) require specialist equipment and many hours of experience.:thumb2

Personally, I wouldn't touch them, and my first career was an electronic engineer.
Rustic