rustic said:
Just started to get Mav ready for MOT and noticed that there is a slight weep from the rear brake cylinders.
Having looked at web sites and suppliers there are several sizes depending on vehicle year SWB or LWB
Which is the right one for a 1995 2.7TD LWB Mk1 maverick?
There are in fact 3 sizes. Info picked up off ebay so may not be correct.
22.2 mm I think for 93-96 2.7TD LWB or 2.4 petrol
23.8 mm I think for 93-02 2.7TD SWB or 96-00 LWB
25.4 mm I think for 96-02 2.7TD LWB.
Most suppliers sell just one, 1 size fits all, but clearly the force exerted by the cylinder will be different.
I just went into my shed and discoverered an original one from the vehicle that I changed 6 years ago... I managed to seperate the piston and that measured 23.8mm so it looks like this is the correct size.
My wife accuses me of keeping junk.. I knew it would come in handy...
Can anyone advise please
Best regards, Rustic
Well this morning I replaced both rear wheel cylinders, I bought them from Brakes international, and the size is 23.8mm diameter.
I removed both of them, one was 23.8 as expected but the other 25.4mm
in fact one of them was siezed, BUT it did pass the MOT no problems a few weeks ago.
So does size matter? 8O 8O
The job was quite straight forward, you don't have to touch the brake shoes, there is enough room to slide the old one out and insert the new one. Fortunately I had waxoyled the rears of the cylinders from new so the brake pipes and fittings were like new. :lol: The biggest job was removing the centre housing around the handbrake to access the 10mm AF adjustment nut for the hand brake cable. Which you have to slacken before you can remove the rear brake drums.
I placed a plastic bag under the resevoir cap, so minimal fluid was lost.
When I re-fitted the cylinders I was able to bleed them in situ, remove plastic bag from the resevoir, and squeeze the pistons slightly while opening the bleed screw, close the bleed screw and fluid is drawn into the cylinder, do this several times. This removed enough air so that the brakes worked enough, but I will wait till the wife gets home to bleed them properly before I go on the road. I have also replaced the brake fluid while I was at it, just need to bleed this through.
I remember from a previous thread not to press the brake pedal all the way down, only half way otherwise the seals will boldly go where no seals have gone before, and may damage them.
Tools needed, small 8mm socket for the two 5mm fixing bolts, 10mm open ended spanner for the brake pipe nut, a suitable spanner for the bleed screw, they are all different sizes but the new ones were 10mm AF
Can of Brake cleaner, water spray bottle to wash off fluid spills, plenty of cloths etc Time 2 hour max including removing centre console and jacking vehicle onto axle stands.
However it could go wrong, the pipes could be badly corroded and barley sugar as you remove them, it did on my mini when I replaced the sub frame many, many years ago... then you have to go back to the next joint and replace the pipe, then that could also sieze, and you have to keep going back......
I recommend waxoyl to anyone, wipes off to reveal joints and bolts like new, also protects electrical connectors.
Hope this helps,
best regards, Rustic
