Serious Engine Problem?

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M

mrogers

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I was having a look at my squeeky belts, and noticed that the top of the engine sounded a little clicky. I thought its just a re-adjust tappets issue so wasnt worried, untill I took the oil cap off. It was blowing air out like an exhaust. I have never had this from a car before, is it normal or is my engine about to go bang?

Also, to change the belts do I just loosen the net on the adjuster but the alternator and also the on on the top right of the engine for the other belt, chuck a new one on and re-tighten?
 
Test the compression, wet and dry. Sounds to me like crank case pressure from bore wear. If its not that its more than likely a valve knackered or sticking open.

I'm not sure just how much crank case pressure these cars have in 100% condition.

Certain elements of this you can live with to a limited degree, but you need to work out exactly what is going on in there.
 
no it neednt be. Just find out what it is first.

Others will tell you better what crank case pressure is normal. Mines got 80 000 on the clock so I'll check this afternoon and see what sort of pressure it has.

Then tackle whats up.

Good luck.
 
Cheers Dave.

Have noticed it running funny and it doesnt run hot at all.

Should I park her up untill fixed or carry on running as per normal. I not 100% sure how to test the pressue, suppose I better take her to a garage to get it done.
 
You probably wouldnt notice any change in temp.

Somewhere on the engine there will be a crank case vent. It will almost defo vent back into the crank case , like a sealed loop system. If it all gets too much for the engine you may notice leaks on that but otherwise nothing until as you did today, take the oil filler cap off whilst its running and youve vented it!!!

Its a hard call whether to use the car or not. MY personal thoughts would be not to, or at least as minimum until you know whats up.

Whilst normal wear and tear would allow this to happen via bore wear or valves "wearing" out, sometning may have physically broken eg a piston ring or a valve/valve spring.

You mentioned a "ticking", hard to diagnose without listening but could and only could be something metallic already loose. Hopefully and in my experience probably not but always better safe than sorry.

Do you have a "DIY" friend nearby? a compression tester is a common bit of kit and real easy to use.
 
I only noticed the ticking with the bonnet open and my head close to the block looking to see if the belts looked ok when spinnng. My 300zx sufferes for noise Hydralic Lifters (Most do), but this was a click rather than a tick. Its a constant click but about every second, unlike the lifters on the 300zx that tick about 3 times per second.

It doesnt really sound bad, just sounds like something need minor adjustment.
 
mrogers said:
if I bought this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PETROL-ENGINE...39:1|66:2|65:12|240:1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

could I test it myself. Not 100% sure on the fitiment re for my engine.

That definitely looks a though it would do the trick, its got steppers for different sized plug threads.

Have you been using much oil?

You need to know what the compresion is on the 2.4 and what the upper and lower limits are. Sorry I've just checked my book and I've only got the diesel ones.

Fit that gauge into the spark plug hole and crank it over. You'll get a reading. Do it for all four than compare them. They should be within limits and within 10% of each other.

If one or all are out of those limits, run the test again. This time on each one put a drop of engine oil down the spark plug hole into the bore. If this raises the compression it means your bores/pistons are worn or a piston ring has gone.

If the oil makes no difference at all it be cylinder head/valves.

Thats about as far as you can reasonably diagnose with out taking it to bits.

There could of course be other mechanical reasons why this is happening but generally they'll display other symptons too.

The reason I've posted all that blurb is if you want to check it out for your own interest that gauge will do it (I would :wink: ) otherwise save your dosh.

Hope that helps and good luck.

Sorry I thought I'd mentioned earlier, but its all part of the diagnostics, make sure the crank case vent/breather is not blocked it'll possibly have a filter somewhere within it, check that aint blocked. I dont think it would cause massive pressure but it contribute.
 
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Cheers for that. I had a valve go on my 300zx, that resulted in 0psi and plumes of smoke out the back. Havent seen any spoke out the back this time and will need to check if its using oil.
 
daved.
have a listern to your exhaust at the end of pipe .
listern for OFF BEAT /MISSED BEAT.
It should sound even and regular.
and as said check breather pipes for carbon blockage .
once disconected try running engine and remove filler cap again and see if the blow by is as bad.
is there any water stain in engine oil (white deposits) .or sludge in underside of filler cap . or oil in rad.
if all ok stop worrying
THESE OLD ENGINES WILL RUN AND RUN MINE HAS DONE 176K AND STILL STRONG.
rgds,iandouglas
 
Thanks for the help. There isnt any signs of water in the oil or oil in the water. There is no smoke out the back (well it has the white vapour smoke on a cold morning like all cars do). The car doesnt idle rough.
Its hard for me to tell if she is down on power as I have nothing to comapare against. It feels sluggish compared to my Xantia and 300zx but they are running 180bhp and 350bhp respectivly so cant use them as benchmarks.

Will look at the breathers the weekend as suggested.

:)
 
A simple check does the engine idle speed up when the oil cap is off and then slow down when you put it back on ?
 
rossco said:
A simple check does the engine idle speed up when the oil cap is off and then slow down when you put it back on ?

Doesnt seem to be any change in engine note with cap off.
 
Some engines will vary in any case. Even on some top condition engines you get oil spatter when you open up the cap and the idle will change. Perhaps incorrectly, that was explained to me as a condition caused by whatever type of crank case vent system is fitted.

I've got quite a bit of previous for inadvertantly running shagged cars :wink: (petrol) and on several vauxhalls, fords & vw's I can tell you that barring blockages the vast majority of crankcase overpressure came from bore wear most commonly or valve problems secondly. Theyre the principal causes of what you describe when theres no other major symptoms.

I ran a cavalier for ages with the crank vent hose rerouted from the bottom of the air filter into a plastic container. Every few hundred miles I just tippped the oil back into the engine. I've no doubt bhp was down but otherwise it ran just fine over several thousand miles up and down the M5/6&1 from the South West to the North East every other weekend. Eventually I put new piston rings in and ran it for loads more miles on the same route .

When you crank it over on a cold morning does it take a few turns before springing into life and seeming ok?

I will be absolutely delighted for you if my long distance diagnosis is wrong but please get the basics checked out 8)
 
daved said:
Some engines will vary in any case. Even on some top condition engines you get oil spatter when you open up the cap and the idle will change. Perhaps incorrectly, that was explained to me as a condition caused by whatever type of crank case vent system is fitted.

I've got quite a bit of previous for inadvertantly running shagged cars :wink: (petrol) and on several vauxhalls, fords & vw's I can tell you that barring blockages the vast majority of crankcase overpressure came from bore wear most commonly or valve problems secondly. Theyre the principal causes of what you describe when theres no other major symptoms.

I ran a cavalier for ages with the crank vent hose rerouted from the bottom of the air filter into a plastic container. Every few hundred miles I just tippped the oil back into the engine. I've no doubt bhp was down but otherwise it ran just fine over several thousand miles up and down the M5/6&1 from the South West to the North East every other weekend. Eventually I put new piston rings in and ran it for loads more miles on the same route .

When you crank it over on a cold morning does it take a few turns before springing into life and seeming ok?

I will be absolutely delighted for you if my long distance diagnosis is wrong but please get the basics checked out 8)

thats the weird thing,there are no other symptoms other than it blowing air out of the oil cap when its removed. its starts first time no matter if it hot or like this morning, bloody cold lol. I it wasn't for taking the oil capoff with the engine running, i would never have known anything different
 

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