Replacing an upper ball joint on Maverick / Terrano

[rustic]

You need the following tools in addition to a new ball joint.

M12 AF socket to slacken the 4 bolts on the top.
The new ones were 13mm AF:nenau

A good quality 22mm AF open ended spanner, as you can't undo the big nut with a standard socket set. Not enough room under the nut unless you remove the drive shaft.
Pliers to remove the split pin.
Wire brush to clean up the area.
A brush full of waxoyl to put on threads and all steel surfaces.
I jacked the vehicle up with a block of wood under the lower wishbone, so the wheel is well clear of the ground.
Placed an axle stand under the chassis, in fact under the front jacking point.
Removed wheel, then lowered the jack from under the wishbone slightly so the weight was taken on the axle stand.
The 4 top bolts loosened easily, as I waxoyled everything... wait for this, 19 years ago. I did not use any release fluid or WD40 as the waxoyl had protected the threads and bolts all that time. :thumb2

I left the 4 bolts in, for the next part.
The split pin came out easily, then I used a 22 mm open ended spanner, 1/12 turn at a time, to undo the large nut. This was the difficult time consuming bit, but the nut came undone easily due to the waxoyl.

TIP:-
I then run a rope around the upper wheel studs, to around the upper shock absorber bolt, as when I undo the ball joint, the hub will drop down, so this is to limit the travel.

I used my trusty ball joint splitter, and with one complete turn of the nut on the splitter, the joint separated, the top wish bone sprung up, and the hub assembly was caught by my rope.

I cleaned up the area. and rewaxoyled the metalwork, and fitted the ball joint to the upper wishbone, and with some downward pressure, I was able to locate the taper of the ball joint into the hub, and fit the nut finger tight.
I then tightened all bolts, and tightened the nut to the next castellation of the nut and fitted the split pin. This took a bit of effort, as I had to go nearly a whole castle.
I then put some more waxoyl on it, so I don't expect now to service this for another 19 years. :augie

I could have used the jack under the wishbone to help raise the hub towards the wishbone, should I have needed too.

Time taken.. just over an hour, and that included getting the tools out and clearing up afterwards.
BUT I have the advantage of using a nice warm dry garage to work in.

Hope it helps,
best regards,

Rustic

 

[Banshee]

You need the following tools in addition to a new ball joint.

M12 AF socket to slacken the 4 bolts on the top.
The new ones were 13mm AF:nenau

A good quality 22mm AF open ended spanner, as you can't undo the big nut with a standard socket set. Not enough room under the nut unless you remove the drive shaft.
Pliers to remove the split pin.
Wire brush to clean up the area.
A brush full of waxoyl to put on threads and all steel surfaces.
I jacked the vehicle up with a block of wood under the lower wishbone, so the wheel is well clear of the ground.
Placed an axle stand under the chassis, in fact under the front jacking point.
Removed wheel, then lowered the jack from under the wishbone slightly so the weight was taken on the axle stand.
The 4 top bolts loosened easily, as I waxoyled everything... wait for this, 19 years ago. I did not use any release fluid or WD40 as the waxoyl had protected the threads and bolts all that time. :thumb2

I left the 4 bolts in, for the next part.
The split pin came out easily, then I used an open ended spanner, 1/12 turn at a time, to undo the large nut. This was the difficult time consuming bit, but the nut came undone easily due to the waxoyl.

TIP:-
I then run a rope around the upper wheel studs, to around the upper shock absorber bolt, as when I undo the ball joint, the hub will drop down, so this is to limit the travel.

I used my trusty ball joint splitter, and with one complete turn of the nut on the splitter, the joint separated, the top wish bone sprung up, and the hub assembly was caught by my rope.

I cleaned up the area. and rewaxoyled the metalwork, and fitted the ball joint to the upper wishbone, and with some downward pressure, I was able to locate the taper of the ball joint into the hub, and fit the nut finger tight.
I then tightened all bolts, and tightened the nut to the next castellation of the nut and fitted the split pin. This took a bit of effort, as I had to go nearly a whole castle.
I then put some more waxoyl on it, so I don't expect now to service this for another 19 years. :augie

I could have used the jack under the wishbone to help raise the hub towards the wishbone, should I have needed too.

Time taken.. just over an hour, and that included getting the tools out and clearing up afterwards.
BUT I have the advantage of using a nice warm dry garage to work in.

Hope it helps,
best regards,

Rustic

Did you take any pics along the way?

If you did that would make for a superb workshop download there mate :thumb2

 

[rustic]

Did you take any pics along the way?

If you did that would make for a superb workshop download there mate :thumb2

no I didn't, but if you want to edit it into a down load maybe add more, you are most welcome.

Rustic