Removing towbar - any tips?

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Smiler AS

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Joined
Feb 17, 2014
Messages
125
Hi, I'm wanting to remove the swan neck towbar on my terrano to change it for a heavier duty flange type (plus stabiliser).
Problem is, the bolts look well rusted and I'm going to be running high risk of the bolts shearing off.
Any tips or tricks to try and avoid them shearing off?
 
The ones into the chassis go into a captive nut, and I think they are M12, with a fine thread.

If I remember correctly, when you take the rear light clusters out of the rear bumper, you can see into the end of the chassis tubes to spray a load of penetrating fluid in there a few days in advance of trying to remove it.

It's been a while, so wait to see if anyone else agrees with me though.
 
The ones into the chassis go into a captive nut, and I think they are M12, with a fine thread.

If I remember correctly, when you take the rear light clusters out of the rear bumper, you can see into the end of the chassis tubes to spray a load of penetrating fluid in there a few days in advance of trying to remove it.

It's been a while, so wait to see if anyone else agrees with me though.

I agree with you :naughty :augie

Don't know what I'm talking about though :naughty
 
Hi, I'm wanting to remove the swan neck towbar on my terrano to change it for a heavier duty flange type (plus stabiliser).
Problem is, the bolts look well rusted and I'm going to be running high risk of the bolts shearing off.
Any tips or tricks to try and avoid them shearing off?

I'm wanting to do this also as now I have lifted the motor the tow ball is too high so I need to fit a drop plate as the swan neck isn't adjustable.
mine is held on by 3 m10 nuts and bolts each side through the recovery points on the chassis.no captive nuts so angle grinder and replace the nuts and bolts is the way I am going to go.
anyone want to sell me a flange type tow bar or swap for my swan neck one:nenau
 
...mine is held on by 3 m10 nuts and bolts each side through the recovery points on the chassis.no captive nuts so angle grinder and replace the nuts and bolts is the way I am going to go...

No captive nuts, and as Rick says, replace the nuts and bolts anyway.
Make sure you use the right grade, ie high tensile, there are several strengths.:nenau
 
If it's just nut and bolt (ie no captive nut in chassis), even better, angle grinder to the ready!
 
Had a look again tonight, bolt heads are well rusted, pretty sure I'm going to be cutting them. But il spray on penetrating fluid tonight, tommorrow and sat ready for an nod attempt with breaker bar first on Sunday.
 
As cnc says easier to undo than cut, use long bars and aggressive effort and they will probably shear, they tend to be well rusty, even if they undo, bin them and fit new, Rick
 

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