Removing front arbs with susp list?

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AlexD333

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Jan 1, 2014
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7,847
So, if you remove front anti roll bars with torsions lifted up, do you indeed put the cv's under more strain? Or are they free to put themselves under more strain?

I cant get my head round what the pros of removing the front arbs are for the likes Of my motor.

Can anyone shed light? :nenau
 
So, if you remove front anti roll bars with torsions lifted up, do you indeed put the cv's under more strain? Or are they free to put themselves under more strain?

I cant get my head round what the pros of removing the front arbs are for the likes Of my motor.

Can anyone shed light? :nenau

:lol:lol you wind up merchant :lol:augie :thumbs
 
Off road it allows the ifs to move more freely but on road it increases the body roll if cornering hard.
Once lifted on the torsion bars you have increased the angle of the cv so it's under more stress all the time.
Off road if you get a front wheel in the air spinning then it contacts and grips because there is no lsd in the front diff you put alot of power all at once into the cv and run the risk of it breaking.
The only real way to keep the angle of the cv at factory setting is to lower the diff.
Very costly kit from calmini to put the front diff closer to the ground.
Not sure if it will put extra load on the cv joint if the arb is removed but not advised on a road going motor due to the handling.
 
Off road it allows the ifs to move more freely but on road it increases the body roll if cornering hard.
Once lifted on the torsion bars you have increased the angle of the cv so it's under more stress all the time.
Off road if you get a front wheel in the air spinning then it contacts and grips because there is no lsd in the front diff you put alot of power all at once into the cv and run the risk of it breaking.
The only real way to keep the angle of the cv at factory setting is to lower the diff.
Very costly kit from calmini to put the front diff closer to the ground.
Not sure if it will put extra load on the cv joint if the arb is removed but not advised on a road going motor due to the handling.

This is strange, I drove Ricks mrs motor with no front arbs was beautiful on road. Whats the point of buying av expensive kit to lower the front diff? Surely that just eliminates the winding if the torsions. Do u mean raise? Portal axles?

I cant see how removing my front arbs will give me any advantages as to get better grip it will need to move more, more movement = more angle of cv :nenau
 
This is strange, I drove Ricks mrs motor with no front arbs was beautiful on road. Whats the point of buying av expensive kit to lower the front diff? Surely that just eliminates the winding if the torsions. Do u mean raise? Portal axles?

I cant see how removing my front arbs will give me any advantages as to get better grip it will need to move more, more movement = more angle of cv :nenau

Dude the only way you eliminate the winding up of the bars is by unwinding them :doh Buying the expensive kit puts your diff back in line with your front wheels putting the cvs nearer to horizontal = less strain on them

It does eliminate any gain in diff clearance you might have gained from winding the bars up but you're still going to have the extra wheel clearance from winding the bars up.
 
I cant see how removing my front arbs will give me any advantages as to get better grip it will need to move more, more movement = more angle of cv :nenau
Articulation....
The function of the suspension is to optimise the the contact of the wheels to the ground relative to the body while providing stability and passenger comfort.
ARB's improve road handling, body roll and comfort on road, but restrict axle travel and limit the ability to keep the wheel in contact with the ground on irregular surfaces.
Removing the ARB can have a detrimental effect on CV's, body roll and on road handling.
Pays your money and takes your choice....
 
At the risk of starting a Land Rover hate campaign....
It was possibly one of good things a STOCK LR (be it leaf or coil sprung) did very well,...
articulate it's axles!
 
What Ray said and a bit.
T2 is of course IFS and so handles very well as a big "car" . ARBs in place makes for a comfortable ride in the bends for passengers and to an extent helps with handling. Conversly when off road you want more flex/articulation which is relatively hard to do with IFS, so you bin the ARB and gain some flex.
As said above you'll get more strain on the CVs but not massive as most of the time they're somewhere near their normal position. What does stuff your CVs is 3" lifts and max'd out torsion bars :eek:
I've run 33s for ages and more recently on 35s and yet I've only done one CV . On a '96 that's not bad anyway :thumbs
Take 'em off and roll , keep 'em on for road miles etc
For green lanes etc keep them :question
 
I would guess you would get more travel on the suspension when cornering ...softer type travel ... so would be unstable on a road going motor , but I wait patiently to be proved wrong jim .
 
When I tried mine without a front ARB it was like driving a boat.
Off road it was fine as you are driving at slow speeds on uneven terrain.
At the end of the day there is only so much you can do with ifs.
A quick release front ARB would give you the best of both worlds.
Been running lifted terrano's for a fair few years and have yet to bust a cv.
I keep a couple of drive shafts as spares should it ever happen.
 
Suppose unless you are using fixed hubs or when in 4wd the cv joint isnt turning so no stress or am I wrong?
If thats the case they'll spend most of their time de-stressed (lucky things)
 
Problem with running no arb on road is that it will be when you need to brake hard and turn at the same time that you will realise as the car tips over exactly what the function of the arb is and that will be to late.

Front arb all that weight etc is an accident waiting to happen if removed on my Patrol if I disconnect the rear arb electrically it the car will reconnect above a certain speed.

My opinion only but would not use any car on road with no arb connected.

Kind regards

Russell.
 
As above, at speed braking in a turn, ie sudden unstability.
I've been without ARBs for years and have got used to nthe boat feel. The body rolls amusingly but the grip doesn't change that I can tell. That said I still don't reckon it's a good idea to go no ARB on a mainly road going truck.
On the Trol however it makes very little difference. Live axles behave so differently to the IFS , I hardly noticed them gone on the trol :thumbs
I did try making some disconnects for the front of the T2 but there's just so little room . So it is do-able but not a DIY version I could come up with :eek:
 
Braking hard AND turning, interesting concept, sounds like the quickest way to lose control, Rick
 
I did look at trying to make some sort of quick disconnect front ARB but never got anywhere with it.
I thought about a pin through the top of the droplink with either an R clip or a lynch pin instead of a nut and bolt to hold the drop link to the ARB.
Also need some sort of holder for the ARB when it's disconnected to stop it fouling up on anything.
Could be a warm weather project but not too fussed about it at the moment.
 

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