removal of rear hubs??????

[pablo0874]

morning everyone ,
ive been told by the lovely chaps at the mot station that my rear cylinders are seeping and will need replacing soon along with the shoes ,i know this is a easy job apart from seized nuts and the usual but my question to any one who has done this before is the best way to remove hubs to gain access to the shoes and sort,
in the manual it says if they wont come off use two m8 bolts insert in holes and this will release hubs ,
as im as :doh i was wondering if anyone can simplify sort of like they do in that stupid programme with grey haired kids presenter the CUBE ,
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ADD PICTURES AS WELL as im really a lamen,
:bow:bow:bow:bow

 

[solarman216]

the best way to get the drums of is to slack the hand brake cable off at the hand brake Mk 2 has a little plastic screw cover on the console (it is T shaped) this allows access to the 10mm nut on the cable at the bottom front of the lever, Mk 1 is not so easy as the cover is just oblong but if you pull the hand brake up a little you can get to it, the reason you need to slack it of is cos the drums usually wear lip/rust that is not always easy to get past the shoes, if you have a lip you need to get it ground off, as the auto adjusters most times do not work so you need to adjust the brakes before putting the drums back you will probably need to take them off several times after applying the brakes to centralize the shoes, only when you have them adjusted right up can you adjust the hand brake, Rick

 

[lacroupade]

morning everyone ,
ive been told by the lovely chaps at the mot station that my rear cylinders are seeping and will need replacing soon along with the shoes ,i know this is a easy job apart from seized nuts and the usual but my question to any one who has done this before is the best way to remove hubs to gain access to the shoes and sort,
in the manual it says if they wont come off use two m8 bolts insert in holes and this will release hubs ,
as im as :doh i was wondering if anyone can simplify sort of like they do in that stupid programme with grey haired kids presenter the CUBE ,
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ADD PICTURES AS WELL as im really a lamen,
:bow:bow:bow:bow

I wasn't aware you need to remove the backplate to swap the cylinders? But the drum comes off as specified....two M8 bolts screwed into the two holes provided...thats what the procedure refers to, not 'hubs'.

Someone like Mr Rustic will be along shortly with the full drill (backing off adjusters etc..). :thumb2

 

[pablo0874]

i did mean to say drums it just come out as hubs , i knew what i meant though lol,
drums yes thanks for that i seee the two holes with threads in them in the hubs but there seeems to be something in them like a screw or something shouild they just be holes looking through the hubs?

 

[solarman216]

i did mean to say drums it just come out as hubs , i knew what i meant though lol,
drums yes thanks for that i seee the two holes with threads in them in the hubs but there seeems to be something in them like a screw or something shouild they just be holes looking through the hubs?

if you can see the threads then I suspect they are just full of rubbish, they are only short about 5 mm then you hit the half shaft, Rick

 

[rustic]

I think the proceedure has been covered, but a tip, is to spray the M8 threaded holes with a release fluid, penetrating oil, or WD40, in fact if you form a cup under each threaded hole with plastercine or blue tack, then fill this with some release oil it will help to make getting the hub off easier as the oil will help to unsieze the brake drum from the rear half shaft.
When you use the M8 bolts to release the drum, ( after slackening off the handbrake lever), when the hub starts to come off, slacken the M8 bolts then hit the drum with a mallet you may hear a clonk as the shoes return to the back plate, then continue to use the M8 bolts to release the hub. You may need to do this several times. Once the hub starts to move you will not need much effort on the bolts to remove the drum.


You will need some brake cleaner spray to degrease everything and some copper slip/ease (Grease) on the contact points where the new shoes touch the back plates and ends of the shoes, don't get any on the shoe material.

The cylinders can be removed without taking off the shoes, but you are replacing the shoes anyway, so take a few photographs of the positions of the springs, as they only fit one way round.

Tip
I would place a plastic bag over the brake fluid resevoir and screw the cap down, this will prevent much fluid loss when you disconnect the brake pipe on the rear of the cylinder. ( don't forget to remove it when you have finished and before you bleed the brakes).

Be prepared to replace the pipe(s), on the rear of the cylinder, as it may be siezed and barley sugar twist as you undo it..

Work on one drum at a time, as it is easy to press the brake pedal down, to centralise the brake shoes during adjustment, and pop out the cylinder on the other wheel.

With new shoes you will need to reset the auto adjuster threaded bar in the centre, and then re-adjust etc.
The auto adjusters, just don't work that well.(if at all).

If when you open up the drum, the fluid is in fact gear oil from the rear diff, then this is another seperate issue.

To be honest, if you have never done this task before on another vehicle, don't learn on this vehicle. Get someone else to do it.

Good luck,
best wishes,
Rustic

 

[pablo0874]

managed to get around to replacing the cylinders and shoes done everything you said here and worked out fine brakes working fine no leaks the only problem is adjusting handbrake , handbrake not giving nothinmg now,used the auto adjuster with a screw driver to push shoes out so drum just barely slides on ,but still turn hub with hand just about,pressed brake pedal 10 imes ,pulled handbrake up but theres no ogrip in it even after tightening the adjusting nut ,any ideas were i am going wrong the brakes all work fine off the foot pedal and everything back as was springs cables etc