rear seat belt anchor points - rust

[perelaar]

I have a rust hole (crack) where the rear wheel arch meets the floorplan, on a SWB commercial conversion (no more rear seats or seatbelts).

As I'm in the middle of the shooting season and out with the T2 several times a week, I don't have the time now to have it properly welded up.
To stop water ingress I temporarily fixed it with glassfiber - but how long will it hold? Anyone any experience with this?

I do realise this is not a final repair, but I'd like to have all welding done at the same time. Door sills are rather thin in some places as well.

 

[Banshee]

I have a rust hole (crack) where the rear wheel arch meets the floorplan, on a SWB commercial conversion (no more rear seats or seatbelts).

As I'm in the middle of the shooting season and out with the T2 several times a week, I don't have the time now to have it properly welded up.
To stop water ingress I temporarily fixed it with glassfiber - but how long will it hold? Anyone any experience with this?

I do realise this is not a final repair, but I'd like to have all welding done at the same time. Door sills are rather thin in some places as well.

The sooner you address this the better as it will only get worse, should be easier to repair on yours as you've already got the majority of the internals stripped out, carpets, seats etc

I'd say the fibreglass should be OK until the end of hunting season, then get it welded nice and Waxoyled or whatever the equivalent is out in Belgium

 

[Sweety]

The fibreglass filler will hold for a very long time if it's got a good grip:thumb2 the front panel on my last T2 split where it meets the bottom X member for the rad & only found it a couple of days before the MOT & as I can't weld & couldn't get anyone to do it I glassed it back together & 2 years later it was still holding & strong

 

[perelaar]

Apparently grip was not as good as I thought - it still leaks to the load area, but less than before...