Rear Brake shoe

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mully

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Is there any one who can tell me how to get the new brake shoes on, i have the old ones off renewed cylinders,but cannot get the new ones on, is there a method for getting the springs on???, i did take photos before i took off the old ones.Any tips will be gratefull, many thanks Mully
 
Slaken off cables by the hand brake firstly
look at your pictures , that will show you which way the trailing and lead shoe go on the back plate.
Then push the rear shoe holding pins through and put on the spring then the retaining cap for the holding spring.
At this point make sure that the handbrake cable is attached to the shoes and the auto adjuster is wound off and in place.
When both shoes are held in place with the adjuster and cable in place, start putting the shoe return springs on. You may want to use a pair of long nose pliers and a screw driver for this as it can be tricky.
Once the springs are in place and everything is fitted, turn you attention to the brake drum. If there is a lip on the edge it will need to be removed by grinding it off.
When you have done this, push the drum over the shoes.
If it slides on nice and easy, take it off and adjust the auto adjuster until the drum just drags as you put it on.
Once you have reached this stage you can bolt the wheel back on and do the other side the same way.
When both sides have been done, take up the slack on the handbrake cable by the lever.
I may have missed something out, I can't remember everything lol
Hope you bled your brake system of air aswell
Check your brakes before heading for the open highway, if you don't know what your doing with brakes you shouldn't be working on them.
Brakes are the most important part on any moving object.
Hope this helps
 
Yep, Harlowmaverick seems to have it sorted, but not too sure about grinding off the edge of the drum, I've never done it but I would be concerned about leaving stress points on the circumference caused by cuts into the edge if not done smoothly.

I guess a grind wheel would work better than and angle grinder :nenau
Less chance of cuts to the edge.

A lathe would be the best solution, but I can always get my drums on over the lip by adjusting the auto adjuster, fit drum, apply bakes, inc hand brake etc, this will centralise them, then remove drum again and re-adjust.

Only have one drum off at a time otherwise you may forget and pop the pistons out of the other one as you apply the brakes. :doh
 
sorry, but i have a special drum grinder that sorts out the lips on drums.
i appreciate not every one has one of these, do not use a angle grinder to remove lips as rustic say, it will create stress and possible crack your drums when you brake.
i was forgetting myself there for a moment
 
i cannot understand why terrano parts are so much dearer than landrover parts? is there no pattern parts out there if not there is a good business for someone out there.
 
i cannot understand why terrano parts are so much dearer than landrover parts? is there no pattern parts out there if not there is a good business for someone out there.

of course there are loads....just go to your local motor factors.....:thumb2
 
sorry, but i have a special drum grinder that sorts out the lips on drums.
i appreciate not every one has one of these, do not use a angle grinder to remove lips as rustic say, it will create stress and possible crack your drums when you brake.
i was forgetting myself there for a moment
oops, I've ground down almost every drum braked car I've owned:doh
Touching wood as I type but had no issues ever :thumbs
Last summer the wife's focus needed rear shoes for the mot and the garage wanted 300 quid to sort:eek: F**K how much? Turns out drum includes bearings and some fancy super lock nut................:eek:
Sod that , I said I'd take it home and sort it. Oiked the drums off ground lips off:eek:put new retainers in and shoes, fitted new lock nuts on existing bearings. Job done. An hour or so later one new mot:thumbs
Same on me truck and the cortina and the boys fiesta,daughters Herald,all going and stopping fine, and I take no prisoners when breaking:naughty
 
is there not a hole through the backplate or on the drum that the adjuster can be reached thru ?

I'm just wondering how u get the drum on if there is a lip ?

is this why people are talking about grinding the lip off ?

I suspect if you service the rear brakes and can only go so far with adjuster due to the lip, then you would just take it up on the cable then ? will this then leave the brake peddle with more travel ?
 
is there not a hole through the backplate or on the drum that the adjuster can be reached thru ?

I'm just wondering how u get the drum on if there is a lip ?

is this why people are talking about grinding the lip off ?

I suspect if you service the rear brakes and can only go so far with adjuster due to the lip, then you would just take it up on the cable then ? will this then leave the brake peddle with more travel ?

No do not take it up on the cable if lip then grind off then keep adjusting until u can just get the drum on then once both rear shoes r done adjust handshake cable from under the handbrake look in manual will tell u how much pull to get the lever up think it's. 5 or 6 clicks its all in the manual:thumbs
 
No do not take it up on the cable if lip then grind off then keep adjusting until u can just get the drum on then once both rear shoes r done adjust handshake cable from under the handbrake look in manual will tell u how much pull to get the lever up think it's. 5 or 6 clicks its all in the manual:thumbs

ok mate, did you agree that the grinding can be done with a hand grinder, or is it a job for an engineering firm ?
 
Just grind the lip off with a grinding disc, piece of P mate. Just keep moving around so things don't get hot in one place.
 
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