Rear Brake Drum Slave Cylinder

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Banshee

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Jul 24, 2012
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Long story short guys

I was replacing my springs on Thursday for some LWB ones that I collected from James to give me a bit of extra cheeky lift and to also stop my SWB ones from rattling at low revs because I'd compressed them by having too much weight in the back

Just about to replace the last spring when tiredness kicked in as it was late, dark and raining :( then the car fell off the jack :doh

Rear hub bore the brunt of the fall and everything in the rear drum fell apart

I took it all apart yesterday and it appears that the pins and cups that hold the shoes in place were knackered, I've replaced those now as I have spares

The problem I have is that I've bent my adjuster and need a new one and that my rear slave cylinder is now leaking fluid from both pistons and the rubber is split both sides :(

I've never replaced a rear slave cylinder before but it looks simple enough to replace, is it just a case of removing the two nuts and pulling the pipe off or is there a special tool needed to remove the pipe from it?

Many thanks guys, your help is appreciated as I'm currently truckless :eek:
 
ill probably get told off for this but here goes. i clamp the pipe using what ever you have, i use molegrips with a rag around the pipe for protection. remove the break pipe and then just undo the nuts holding the cylinder on the back and it should come come out. i have been known to use a hammer if its stuck in. then simply put the new one in and put it all together and release the molegrips. it will recuire bleeding! im sure some one on here will give you a more detailed answer about it. i just tend to fly in to jobs and figure it out as i go along. but good luck with it :thumb2
 
ill probably get told off for this but here goes. i clamp the pipe using what ever you have, i use molegrips with a rag around the pipe for protection. remove the break pipe and then just undo the nuts holding the cylinder on the back and it should come come out. i have been known to use a hammer if its stuck in. then simply put the new one in and put it all together and release the molegrips. it will recuire bleeding! im sure some one on here will give you a more detailed answer about it. i just tend to fly in to jobs and figure it out as i go along. but good luck with it :thumb2

Thanks buddy :clap
 
My biggest fear is dropping a car off the jacks when working on it, which is why I always put a pile of railway sleeper blocks under it when working on it. Nevertheless we all do rash things when we're under pressure, and I am glad that you weren't injured, or worse.

I know that you have seen some images of the rear brake assembly when I did mine, so I won't post them again. When removing the hydraulic pipe off the old cylinder it's helpful if you have one of those brake flare spanners (with the split in), as this generally prevents damage to the flats on the connector. If you don't have one,then a well fitting spanner is advised.

jonbeck's advise Re clamping the pipe is what I did and spot on, and bleeding it was easy, due to the brand new bleed nipple, with an assistant (as the Haynes manuals used to say) I.e down/up - loosen/tighten repeat etc.

Good luck with it.


Regards

Alan
 

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