re-indexing suspension

[Lazy-Ferret]

I have just been out trying to sort out my droopy front end...:naughty

When I measured from the wheel arch to the top of the centre cap of the wheels, I got 18 on the O/S/R, and 17.5 on the N/S/R, but the front was 3 inches down on these. Firstly, is it a design feature that the drivers side is higher than the passenger side? maybe to allow for the weight of the driver levelling it out, or is this a problem.

Once I set to work, I found that the drivers side adjuster was done right the way up, but the passenger side only done up enough that the bolt head was just proud of the cross member.

I realised I would have to re-index the drivers side to be able to be able to lift it, so found the great instructions on this site, read, re-read, and just to be safe, read them again, then went and attacked the truck...

Now... firstly, wow, when the bolt is done right the way up, there is a lot of thread to have to run that nut up, which was just to tight to be able to do by hand, but too loose for the ratchet spanner to click over. Anyway, I followed the instructions to the letter, using a centre punch to mark up the alignment on the front, lifting the wish bone to make the rod float in mid air, the lot, but when I got to the bit where I am supposed to slide the bar back, nothing happened...

I re-read the instructions, and just like the instructions say, got out hammer and chisel... but where to hit?... in the end, I put the chisel against the bit where the circlip was on the adjuster, and nervously tapped the chisel, as I did not want to damage the circlip channel. Tap Tap, and off shot the rear adjuster end, rather than the nicely marked front end.. all the way off, as well, only stopping when it ran out of groove in the cross member, and the torsion bar was bouncing around with nothing on the end of it, leaving all the splines nicely on show....

I managed to get the adjuster back onto the shaft, but as I had no idea where it was located, I put it back so that I could just get the nut on the end of the bolt, and went from there.

Anyway, the car is now sitting level, at 18.25 O/S, and 17.75 on the N/S. and the moral of the story is, mark both ends if the torsion bar if you decide to do this...

 

[Banshee]

I have just been out trying to sort out my droopy front end...:naughty

When I measured from the wheel arch to the top of the centre cap of the wheels, I got 18 on the O/S/R, and 17.5 on the N/S/R, but the front was 3 inches down on these. Firstly, is it a design feature that the drivers side is higher than the passenger side? maybe to allow for the weight of the driver levelling it out, or is this a problem.

Once I set to work, I found that the drivers side adjuster was done right the way up, but the passenger side only done up enough that the bolt head was just proud of the cross member.

I realised I would have to re-index the drivers side to be able to be able to lift it, so found the great instructions on this site, read, re-read, and just to be safe, read them again, then went and attacked the truck...

Now... firstly, wow, when the bolt is done right the way up, there is a lot of thread to have to run that nut up, which was just to tight to be able to do by hand, but too loose for the ratchet spanner to click over. Anyway, I followed the instructions to the letter, using a centre punch to mark up the alignment on the front, lifting the wish bone to make the rod float in mid air, the lot, but when I got to the bit where I am supposed to slide the bar back, nothing happened...

I re-read the instructions, and just like the instructions say, got out hammer and chisel... but where to hit?... in the end, I put the chisel against the bit where the circlip was on the adjuster, and nervously tapped the chisel, as I did not want to damage the circlip channel. Tap Tap, and off shot the rear adjuster end, rather than the nicely marked front end.. all the way off, as well, only stopping when it ran out of groove in the cross member, and the torsion bar was bouncing around with nothing on the end of it, leaving all the splines nicely on show....

I managed to get the adjuster back onto the shaft, but as I had no idea where it was located, I put it back so that I could just get the nut on the end of the bolt, and went from there.

Anyway, the car is now sitting level, at 18.25 O/S, and 17.75 on the N/S. and the moral of the story is, mark both ends if the torsion bar if you decide to do this...

Nice Job, as everyone says, it's much easier when your under the car and looking at it.

Mine was slightly higher on the drivers side however mine is perfectly level both sides now and was 1/2 an inch higher than the back when I reset it however now they are practically level

 

[R1cho]

full guide on how to do it here :augie http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/downloads/workshop/wk46.pdf

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

full guide on how to do it here :augie http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/downloads/workshop/wk46.pdf

That's the one I used... Great to have pictures etc thank for doing it, but it would just have been nice if my T2 had also read it, so we were singing from the same hymn book, when the bits separated, and they did it at the same ends. :lol:lol

Where did you hit it with the chisel in the end?

 

[Banshee]

That's the one I used... Great to have pictures etc thank for doing it, but it would just have been nice if my T2 had also read it, so we were singing from the same hymn book, when the bits separated, and they did it at the same ends. :lol:lol

Where did you hit it with the chisel in the end?

I know which bit he's on about, I found jacking it up by the wishbone took some of the pressure off it and allowed me to remove it with 3 fingers

 

[R1cho]

Where did you hit it with the chisel in the end?

just where the circlip goes, but thats only as a last resort, normally jacking up the wishbone on the side you're doing is enough to take the pressure off to release it