More Gearbox advice pse.

[CaptLimey]

My '96 TII has a sick manual gearbox in that it has developed a grinding noise in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th and reverse. Notably NOT in 4th. An oil change revealed what appeared to be small parts of a ball bearing cage when the oil was drained....there's a clue!

As the noise is not constant through all gears, current research suggests that a bearing on the counter gear shaft (is that the right description of the shaft that carries the counter gears?) is on it's way out.

I've found a recon box for around 690 pounds which is guaranteed for a year. I've also found a gearbox man who says he can replace all the bearings for much less. Decisions - decisions!!!!

My question is - has anybody had the same experience and how can I tell from the noise it's making and before taking the box down, whether it is likely to be main shaft front bearing or counter shaft bearing?

Suggestions (decent pse.) appreciated.

Regards CL

 

[leo23]

this is exacly what my gearbox is doing and im gonna keep running it untill the gearbox fails then i will have it rebuilt cause you know what work has been done

http://www.transmission-rebuild-kits.co.uk/ford-gearbox-parts-ford-maverick-c-84_173.html

best place ive found for parts,let me know how you go cause i thinh i'll be doing soon and would like too know how much to budget for it

 

[Toolbox]

I had the exact same thing in the previous 1993 Terrano gearbox I owned it was noisy in 1st 2nd 3rd & 5th and also had a small oil leak from the bell housing. It was caused by the bearing on the input shaft at the front of the gearbox being absolutely shot. I did the work myself and changed the bearing in question along with a couple of other bearings including the pilot bearing that sits on rear of the input shaft, in the front of the main shaft, plus the oil seal, all came to around the £100 pound mark from Nissan. The rest of the box was fine and needed no attention having caught the bearing before it damaged the shaft.

 

[CaptLimey]

Hi Leo & Toolbox

Thanks guys for your input.

Leo - Thanks for the info and link. I'll be doing a rebuild/exchange in France so probably not representative of what it might cost in the UK. When I do either, (I've not decided which yet), I'll post the cost and result but it won't be before April.

Toolbox - Thanks for the feedback. What's involved in dropping the box yourself? I have a decent garage and a 2 ton trolley jack. I've read various threads about separating the transfer box first to lighten the weight etc. but I'm a bit dubious about doing it singlehanded. Any tips? Would the rebuild kit shown in the link that Leo provided be enough to cover what you replaced or would I need seals & other stuff?

Regards CL

 

[Toolbox]

Its not that bad a job, just a bit daunting when thinking about it, but ok when you get stuck in to it. All depends how handy you are with the spanners.
The main thing is to get the truck up high enough so that you can work comfortably under it.
I removed the torsion bars and cross member when I did mine, but I know some on here have left them on and wedged the cross member (with torsion bars left on) down with some blocks of wood, there should be some pics of it on here some place.
I removed mine in one lump with an extra pair of hands, but replaced it on my own in 2 bits as it was already parted after the repair, it made fitting / lining up the gearbox to the clutch easy and the actual gearbox is not heavy, the transfer box is heavier but balancing on a trolley jack is ok.

The rebuild kit with all the bearings looks very good just add an input seal and a tube of instant gasket to the list, make sure it will fit your gearbox, is your filler level plug on the nearside?

 

[Toolbox]

Here is a post a did some years ago and have found lurking on my hard drive after not being able to find it on here LOL.

“Recently I removed the gearbox (manual) from my Terrano 2.7TD and I have put together some points and tips that may help anyone attempting this task, whether to replace the clutch or repair the transmission.
Firstly, if you are like me and do not have access to an inspection pit or a four-poster ramp, you will have to jack up and support the vehicle on axel stands. Do not support the front under the wheels or the suspension, as you have to release the suspension.
Secondly, disconnect the battery always a good safety precaution.
Thirdly make a note and mark the setting of the front suspension torsion bars. Now slacken their adjusters and remove, prize off the c clips and remove the arms from their splines. You can now withdraw both bars from the front suspension splines. Next unbolt and remove the cross member .
Fourthly, Drain the oils in the transmission, remove the rear prop shaft from the back axel and slide it out of the transfer box, be careful not to damage the seal. Remove the front prop shaft completely. ( I didn’t and found out that the gearbox wouldn’t clear the front joint.)
Fifthly, remove the clutch slave cylinder, leave the pipe on and tie it up out of the way. (no bleeding) next remove wiring breather pipes and taco drive. Inside the vehicle remove the gear stick consol and boot, remove the gear stick and unbolt and disconnect 4wd lever and remove.
Sixthly, place a jack under the rear of the engine, undo the rear mount and cross member under the gearbox and remove. Make a note of which way round the rubber mount is. Now lower the jack under the engine until the engine is almost touching the bulkhead, check the cooling fan is clear of the radiator. (mine had plenty of room.)
Support the gearbox and unbolt it from the engine. Some of the top bolts are easier to access through the engine bay, especially the one at the top of the starter motor. Now withdraw the gearbox. (Its heavy you may need help.)
Do your repair and replace in reverse order.
I found it easier to handle by putting it back in two pieces, the main box on to the clutch first and then the transfer box with gasket, on the back of that.
If you replace the clutch ensure you line up the drive plate hub with the spigot in the flywheel.”



Here is another post with some pictures by tanswell he left the torsion bars on.

http://nissan4x4ownersclub.co.uk/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1944&highlight=gearbox

 

[leo23]

im just deciding wheather to let my gearbox grumble to end or have it rebuilt whats best for a car that cost a grand?

 

[johnston_evo3]

i bought my mav without a gear box but found slinging it in with a engine crane through passenger door and straps through the gear stick hole very easy, only awkward bit was getting transfer box over the torsion bar x-member (guy that had took box out just wedged it down

wouldnt think twice about taking it out same way to do clutch

done it all myself on drive way but made sure i had few axle stands under box just to be safe

 

[CaptLimey]

Toolbox

Thanks for a great bunch of info and the link. The job looks/sounds even more daunting than I first thought!!! But I'll take your word that it's not too difficult and mull it over for a bit.

Many years ago I took the box out of a Morris Minor (that tells you how long ago that was) stripped and rebuilt it, so I'm fairly confident that can follow a workshop manual. I'll give this challenge some more thought now that I'm armed with more information.

One more question - (assuming you replaced the clutch) how did you manage to line up the clutch pressure plate with the flywheel socket, did you have a dummy primary shaft or something similar?

Grateful thanks, CL

 

[CaptLimey]

Johnson

Thanks for the steer to an alternative approach to the problem.

Regards CL

 

[CaptLimey]

Toolbox

Sorry, forgot to respond to your question re gearbox filler. Yes mine is on the left side of the gearbox when facing forward (min T2's LHD) and high up just behind where the bell housing narrows to the box. Is this significant?

Leo

Re 'is it worth it' - how much do you want to keep the truck? One approach might be to learn from Toolbox's experience of rebuilding ASAP, it could be wise to do the same. If you let the gearbox fail completely it will probably cost more to repair than if you catch it early. I'll be rebuilding mine soonest.

Regards and thanks to you both CL

 

[Toolbox]

Toolbox

Sorry, forgot to respond to your question re gearbox filler. Yes mine is on the left side of the gearbox when facing forward (min T2's LHD) and high up just behind where the bell housing narrows to the box. Is this significant?

The later gearboxes are different, I am not completely sure how different, but my current T2 has the level filler plug on the right hand side and holds aprox 5ltrs of oil, I was just wondering if the bearings may be different in the newer box and not be the same as the ones listed in the kit.


Leo,
I am of the same thinking as captlimey, that’s if you can do the work yourself, but I suppose you could always get a second hand box, although they still fetch a few hundred to buy.

 

[Toolbox]

Toolbox

One more question - (assuming you replaced the clutch) how did you manage to line up the clutch pressure plate with the flywheel socket, did you have a dummy primary shaft or something similar?

There probably is a specific tool to line up the plate but in its absents, you can do it either by eyeing it up centrally or use an improvised tool such as a socket and extension bar that will fit in the plate and spigot.
Or you could use your input shaft when it’s out of the gearbox before you rebuild the box.

 

[Deleted Member S]

You use to be able to get a clutch aligning tool with different size pieces to fit into the flywheel, clutch plate & preasure plate to line it up. If they were to small I used to rape elec tape arond the bit that was to small untill I got the size I needed :smile: Will have a look for a photo of what i'm on about & put the link up.

Found this which is like what I was on about
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht426-clutch-alignment-tool

 

[CaptLimey]

Toolbox/Sweety

Again guys thanks for the come-back. The use of the input shaft is a gem of an idea but I'm thinking of giving the box to a local specialist to re-build professionally, so I won't have the shaft available when I replace the pressure and friction plate. The socket and extension bar seems a good idea and thanks for the link to Machine Mart. For the sake of a few quid it might be a wise investment and save a lot of blue language emanating from under the truck!

Re the position of the filler plug, I think you're right Toolbox, as I've read other threads referring to later (right side filler) boxes that accepted more than the stipulated amount of oil that my older box is supposed to accept.
So I'll have to be careful on the selection of the correct replacement parts. When I've replaced the rebuilt box I'll use the tips I've read to put extra oil in and add molyslip.

Regards CL.