Mayday, mayday, mayday !!!

[emjaybee]

HELP !!!

Got the truck up on ramps to replace the track rods.

After a fight, got the split pins out.

Cracked the nuts, piece of p!ss.

BUT !!!!

I can't get the tapers to break, despite beating the living s**t out of them with a lump hammer.

Anybody got any bright ideas.

If not I'll have to re-tighten the nuts and take it to my mechanic.

 

[zippy656]

heat ?

or something like this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-Forked...569067?hash=item567e16296b:g:u44AAMXQxU9SA5kF

 

[emjaybee]

heat ?

I'm a bit wary there.

I have a plumbers blow torch, but it hasn't got a particularly narrow flame (designed to solder joints), so probably not generating enough heat quickly enough, accurately enough. I dont' have easy access to oxy-ace, which would probably be more suitable.



Not sure I could get a splitter in.

 

[zippy656]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BALL-JOIN...202895?hash=item2c86ec6f0f:g:CccAAOSwd4tTvmgw

this type my be better

 

[emjaybee]

Interesting...

...wonder if I can get one from Halfrauds today?

 

[kitchenman]

I have found that levering the track rod down while hitting the end of the joint 90 degrees to the taper does the trick.
The thump temporarily deforms the eye allowing the taper to drop out, simples:doh

 

[emjaybee]

I have found that levering the track rod down while hitting the end of the joint 90 degrees to the taper does the trick.
The thump temporarily deforms the eye allowing the taper to drop out, simples:doh

Been there done that !!!

Just reserved a splitter at Halfords, will try that this afternoon.

Thanks though.

:thumb2

 

[rustic]

I have found that levering the track rod down while hitting the end of the joint 90 degrees to the taper does the trick.
The thump temporarily deforms the eye allowing the taper to drop out, simples:doh

I agree some pressure on the joint is important. I use a splitter as per Zippy's post 4
suggestion, sometimes I tighten it and think how much more will it take, then a slight hit with a hammer and it seperates with a crack.
For safety, leave the nut a few turns engaged and place an old cloth over the splitter, just in case.
:thumb2

 

[Fez_uk]

Put a hammer on one side and hit it with another from the other side.

Your blowtorch will be good for giving it heat.

 

[jims-terrano]

Kitchenman has it right, beat the living daylights and some more on the side of the joint. Hit it on the side of the female part, where the taper goes in. Look on my profile and see posts started by me, I posted back in September with the same issue and Fez replied with a you tube video. I really thought I was doing it wrong but no just took ages of beating with a lump hammer. I tried a puller thing from my neighbour but it just got in the way. Turn the steering wheel so the centre drag link is as far out on the side you are working on.

Best of luck and look forward to the aching arms tomorrow after all the hammering.

 

[emjaybee]

I agree some pressure on the joint is important. I use a splitter as per Zippy's post 4
suggestion, sometimes I tighten it and think how much more will it take, then a slight hit with a hammer and it seperates with a crack.
For safety, leave the nut a few turns engaged and place an old cloth over the splitter, just in case.
:thumb2

This is the plan I'm going to try this afternoon. Just of to Halfrauds to collect splitter.

Wish me luck.

 

[emjaybee]

Lobbin' it down here.

Will resume hostilities with new splitter tomorrow when it's NOT lobbin' it down.

Will keep you posted.

:thumbs

 

[Lincs Mav]

Ball joint splitter not the fork type the ones you have to use a ratchet on

 

[emjaybee]

Yup, just picked one up from Halfrauds.

:thumb2

 

[perelaar]

Undid mine with a similar splitter, and minor hammer application

 

[solarman216]

I use the bolt operated type all the time never a problem except it will not do the top wish bone ball joint, but that one very often jumps off itself if you leave it jacked up, the torsion bar exerts enough parting pressure ten mins or so while you do something else and a light tap and off but leave the nut on a few threads so it does not fall, straining the brake hose, Rick