Low profile front bump stops

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stinka

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 1, 2012
Messages
3,787
I think makeitfit mentioned these, anyone know where you can buy them from ?
 
Ideally you should work backwards from your fully compressed shock at full articulation. Then add a bit so if you bottom out there's still a bit left to compress. That way your shock absorber wont get bent :thumbs
Fork lift is handy for this job :augie
 
Fully compressed shock ? I'm on about the fully extended bumpstop as I'm looking for a but more droop ( until I fit my spacer with new ball joints )
 
Ah, for droop I didn't bother with bump stops at all :thumb2
 
Did yours have any ? Mine has a round rubber dome that connects with the top arm on full droop. Can you remember removing yours ? I presume they just unbolt
 
It was mate :D

I'm talking bump stops

I have no rear ones and I'm looking at trimming my fronts
 
i have 1 bump stop on front i did have 2 but 1 err fell off while i was fiddlin around :lol just knock em off
 
Top ones are push fit rubber blob type things and the bottom ones are bolted through the arm. :)
As far as I can remember :augie
 
Yeh so bump stops are generally gay I think, u can't beat a bit of metal on metal clanking and bending :lol
 
Ah but I guess with your style driving the damage will be on shocker compression :eek: That's how I bent my front shocks :eek: Never had a problem with droop :lol
 
Just had a proper look at this. My concerns were that after lifting, it handled terrible and understeered on corners in a dangerous manner ! I had a look and i have cranked it to the bump stops, so they were preventing the body roll and it was lifting the inside front wheel on a fast sharp bend !! anyway, i chopped these off with a couple of taps from a BFH and a sharp chisel, this has given me about 18mm of gap between top arm and mount which will equate to a lot more at the wheel probably 2 inches of extra down travel :)

Anyway, took it for a blast and it handles epically again, even had a blast down my favorite rutted and pot holed farm track at 50mph+ getting some twitchy rally stuff going on and tbh its better than ever. by cranking the torsion bar up so far it has increased the spring rate massively ( feels like its 30% stiffer at least ) this has sharpened the front end and reduced the dive on braking, so I'm very happy

I'd advise getting rid of the droop stops to anyone that has lifted there truck as a matter of safety if nothing else

I have no lower bump stops (the ones that come into effect under compression ) as they have long perished and fallen off, but tbh the way i just hammered that farm track i dont think i'll ever need them

Just need to add my 12mm spacers to the front top ball joints for even more droop (!!) and then i'll get the wheel alignment done, as the neg camber on the front is now well noticeable.

Will see how all this extra hight and droop effects my outer CV's, if i bust some its no biggie as the drive shafts are like £20 from the scrappy and theres loads also on ebay
 
Some obvious observations :-
How can you have negative camber after suspension lift ?:eek: It must be positive unless you've done something else :augie
Dont forget your castor angle will be out too and that has an effect on understeer too.
Cranking the torsion bars that high is just wrong :doh
Agreed droop bump stops no point but if the comp ones are awol then your shocks willl come a cropper at those speeds :eek:
 
Nah, neg camber where top of wheel is more in towards vehicle, I've adjusted nothing lol
 
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In my head I figured it would due to the top arm being shorter
 

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