ignition switch

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panelbeater

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Dec 20, 2012
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I have started a new post about the ignition switch,but carrying on from other posts.
some know that I have got a new to me t2 as my Ip pump broke on a trip with my caravan.
the new t2 seams to have a dodgy ig switch,sometimes it turns over sometimes it won't.
its got a new starter on it.
my brother found that if the switch is turned like you would normally it won't turn the engine to start,but all of lights go out on dash.but if yo turn to glow and then very gently tur it it starts so we think it has a faulty electric bit,that is at the end of the key,it goes on the end.
I ordered up a switch and collected today and tried fitting it.
I got everything off and disconnected the old switch but with my limited tools I can't get to the small screw that holds the switch in place.
so I plugged the new switch into its socket and a screwdriver in this end to mimic a key and hey presto it turned motor over first time.
it did not start as there was no key in the ignition for the immobileised,pit key in and tried again the same as befor,it will it wont.
so now I am thinking its got something to do with the imob in the barrel.
those that know can you put me right please.
 
you have to have the switch fastened onto the end of the barrel for all the contacts to work proper.
did mine before was about a 15 mins job with a right angle ratchet driver.
 
you have to have the switch fastened onto the end of the barrel for all the contacts to work proper.
did mine before was about a 15 mins job with a right angle ratchet driver.

No it should work without it attached to the ign barrel. But key will still have to be in the barrel (or in the immobiliser ring) for it to start.

it did not start as there was no key in the ignition for the immobileised,pit key in and tried again the same as befor,it will it wont.
so now I am thinking its got something to do with the imob in the barrel.

can't understand that bit in your message. Engine will still turn over with immobiliser issues, It just wont fire up.
 
No it should work without it attached to the ign barrel. But key will still have to be in the barrel (or in the immobiliser ring) for it to start.



can't understand that bit in your message. Engine will still turn over with immobiliser issues, It just wont fire up.

Fez is on the money as usual :thumb2
 
Mine went bad on my last T2. What was happening was the worn switch was allowing the key to turn beyond the start position and effectively off the end of the contacts. This is why when turned slowly it will start - you're not pushing the key straight over and beyond the contacts.

Replaced the switch part (not the lock) and perfect thereafter.

Suggest you try to get it fitted to the back of the lock properly and try again - my bet is that it'll be OK. Hope that made sense :lol

Good luck.
 
Mine went bad on my last T2. What was happening was the worn switch was allowing the key to turn beyond the start position and effectively off the end of the contacts. This is why when turned slowly it will start - you're not pushing the key straight over and beyond the contacts.

Replaced the switch part (not the lock) and perfect thereafter.

Suggest you try to get it fitted to the back of the lock properly and try again - my bet is that it'll be OK. Hope that made sense :lol

Good luck.

I'm going to get me a new barrel and IMMU chip and try my luck :clap

Sick of my keys falling out of the ignition :doh
 
I'm going to get me a new barrel and IMMU chip and try my luck :clap

Sick of my keys falling out of the ignition :doh

if yours is just the key with the red chip in it, then as long as you get the same style of key you just change the chip over = no reprogramming (there are two places where the chip goes and the shape on the end is different) Rick
 
I have not fitted the new switch as I have nothing with me to get the pesky little screw out.
went to a recovery garage and they had nothing small enough.
went to a few tool places and could not find what I want so just making do by turning kek very slowly.
 
Use a screw driver tip thing or long nose pliers and grip the side of the screw head.

Or just start it with a screwdriver on the ign backplate with the key in the barrel.
 
tried that but not got anything small enough to grip the bit with,and turn it.
 
Would a set of precision screwdrivers not work?

Aldi had a nice set recently, all tips fiitted into the hollow handle.
Pozi, and flat bladed, and two torx, but they are too big for some mobile phones or opening sat navs, as I recently found out.:doh
 
update.got to my next site ok and met up with my brother.
he came with the tools to replace the pesky switch.
this he did and Walla it works fine on the key now
so on the whole it is a decent car apart from wing and bumper.
 
Another update,I used t2 a while after fitting switch and the next day put the cowling back on.
So its as sold then the next day bloody did it again so then relaxed all screws to fitting and tried again and it seems to be hit and miss wether it starts or not.
Now I am thinking its the worn barrel.
On the left side of the battle there os a connector with 2 wires comming out anyone know what these do.
 
Try it with the screwdriver in the switch and key in the barrel for a few days.
 
Another update,I used t2 a while after fitting switch and the next day put the cowling back on.
So its as sold then the next day bloody did it again so then relaxed all screws to fitting and tried again and it seems to be hit and miss wether it starts or not.
Now I am thinking its the worn barrel.
On the left side of the battle there os a connector with 2 wires comming out anyone know what these do.

that sounds like the immobiliser coil that, reads the key but doubt that this is faulty as 3 successive non starts will block you completely, and it will not be the barrel as that has no electrical connections so sounds more like a bad wire on the switch connection, Rick
 
Thanks,its spinning up bit not throwing in the solenoid,do it slow and it starts.
Please explane the 3 non start and your out as this is new to me,how do you get out of that situation.
 
If its spinning every go and not engaging the gear to the fly wheel then the solenoid is broken not the ign switch
 
If you find the earlier posts I think that the truck was traded in because of a ring gear or starter problem,then it had a new starter fitted then traded and the fault was still there,I think.
I brought it from the trader with the problem as he took a further 100 off it as he thought it was the ring gear but it seams to either start on 1st go or 3ed but no movement of flywheel is done to start it so I ruled out ring gear.
As its a new starter we started looking for all possible faults.
Then my brother was playing with the ignition key and he managed to start it all the time.
I can start it usually bit sometimes it spins which led to the electric part of switch.
After fitting without putting covers back on it started as it should then covers put on and the next day hey presto it spins twice then I do it slow it starts.
I loosened the covers as that is the only differs so I think starter is ok with new switch it might be a worn key or barrel.
If I put the key in chip up it seems to start more often first time.
I will keep looking and asking.
Just to remind some I had a Ip failed whilst on a vaning trip of 5 weeks so asked my brother a hundred miles away to look for a 4x4 that was mot tow bar and can run on wvo a big ask as I had very limited finds and I think he did well as well as picking me up and moving van to next site.
I think the truck is ok but if I sort out this problem will be better.
I have heat welded the damaged bumper so its ready for finishing,
Overall I am pleased as the more i do to get it right and look good when I get my other one repaired I will sell one to get my costs back.
 

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