Hot Air Only

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TONUP

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 12, 2008
Messages
749
After a blisteringly hot summer and with the weather now cooling and the nights drawing in I decided for the first time that a bit of heat was required whilst driving home the other day, so I turned the little dial on the centre consul and everything seemed fine, apart from the fact that I can't turn the heat down now!

No matter where I place the dial the heater will now only blow hot air. I have had a look at it, which so far only consists of popping off the dial to see if it was on a splined shaft that wasn't gripping anymore... nothing that easy though and it wasn't. In fact I place a pair of pliers on the nylon disc I could see to turn it, which didn't make any difference.

I then twisted my body into a completely unnatural position in the footwell to see if I could feel if the dial operated a cable that in turn might operate some kind of valve down by the heater matrix, but it was so tight that it was difficult to get my hand to the back of the dial.

I then went to look at the online manual thinking that it would help to look at the component make up of the system, which is where I hope someone can offer a bit of advice...

In the image below, which is an extract from the online manual, shows the control panel assembly. You can also see that there are what appear to be a couple of wires coming out of the back of it. Does one of these control the blown air temperature? Or is there in fact a mechanical link to the matrix?

In either situation I hope that I don't have to strip the dashboard out to get to it. The fan speeds are working fine, as is the A/C so any advice, suggestions or diagnosis would really helpful.

Thanks & Regards

Alan
 

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stripping out the fascia on a facelift model is a bit of a PITA but not that bad....just a few more screws and hidden clips than the round-headlight model....including a couple at the bottom hidden by the tray that surrounds the gearstick, which I found simply pops off when levered with a thin blade.....Just have a go, its not that bad...might just be a bowden cable fixer come adrift or something (Can't remember what it was like back there as I only had it off to replace the stereo and access the ECU for my Tunit).
 
lacroupade,

Thanks for coming forward with a bit of advice. I guess I have no choice other than to start pulling it apart to see if I can work out how it works. I think it will have to weekend job then.

Regards

Alan
 
i had the same problem i had found that where the bowden cable fixer was fixed the plastic surround had split, so a bit of glue and a cable tie to pull it all back together was what was needed, all now working ok, just took radio out and the surround wright down to gear lever if that makes sense?.
 
Tonup the only slightly tricky bit if I recall was the radio surround....if you've got the one where the hazard switch is in the centre above the radio, in a a black panel that goes round the radio faceplate , you just need to run a sharp blade around the edge of it while gently easing it out....it pops out quite simply, but just take it easy so you don't damage anything.

Then just be careful with the clips that attach some bits of the fascia itself, ease the thing off gently and be sure you're not pulling against a screw - there are 6-8 screws as I recall?

Theres a thread on here somewhere about radio replacement on a post-facelift to give you an idea of what it looks like.....but you'll have to do a search as I can't remember where....
 
lacroupade/mully,

Great stuff. I let you nknow how I get on. I'm pleased to hear that is a mechanical set up, which is something that I can probably mend (bodge),

Regards

Alan
 
In fact heres what I wrote shortly after doing it.....think its all correct....

Stefan it depends what facia you've got but I think you'll still have the same as my 02 plate....so it goes something like this.

I assume your radio is in the lower part of a black plastic surround that has the hazard switch in the upper half. If so, its delicate, but you need to run a very slim blade around the edges of it and the plastic fascia will eventually pop out. Just take it slowly and carefully.

The radio is then held in place with two brackets which are screwed to either side of it, and they are then held in place by four screws into the metalwork behind the facia you just removed.

I think from memory you can't get at all screws without removing the centre console which is done like this:

1. remove two screws visible behind fascia you removed.
2. remove two screws either side of ashtray
3. gently lever up console tray surrounding gear selector - it just pops off but again take it slowly, gently lever either side progressively.
4. Remove two screws then revealed at bottom of upper centre console

The the entire upper centre console should be free, revealing the remaining radio screws.

remove the radio, refit the side brackets to your new unit (which should have side holes for that purpose, its a standard mounting option) and then fit.....just reverse the above to reassemble.

Its easier than it sounds trust me. Just take your time removing things.
 
Hot Air Only - Solved

I am pleased to be able to report that I have now got the heater working properly again...

Firstly thanks to everyone that responded and as Mully said it was simply a Bowden cable that had come adrift. Unfortunately my digital camera has gone on the 'Fritz', but heres how I did it...

- First I removed the black plastic trim around the gear levers. I didn't have any proper trim removers so I used a couple of plastic bicycle tyre levers, which worked a treat in levering off the trim without marking/damaging it.

- Removed the radio fascia plate and radio, once again using the levers.

- Removed the ashtray and and ashtray mounting plate. Couple of screws.

- Removed the six screws that hold the piece of black plastic trim that goes up to the top of the dash-board. Six phillips screws. I then run the plastic tyre levers gently all around the trim until it popped off.

- with all of this removed the component (see image in original post) was partially exposed.

It was evident that a little spring clip that holds the Bowden cable in place had fallen off, but in spite of my best efforts (and cursing) I couldn't get it back on. It was just to fiddly to do through the confined space available. In the end I decided to gently sandwich it to the plastic body of the control pod with a bolt and some large washers.

I then reconnected all of the electrical cables and carefully put all of the trim back on.

So far everything seems Ok, but I intend to be careful when using the control knob.

Regards

Alan
 

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