hi guys Im looking at getting a 4x4 either a terrano or a patrol just wanted your opinion on wich one is the most reliable I realy like the patrol's was looking at cars around 2005 ( both terranos and patrol's ) also is there any real advantages to getting a 3.0l terrano as apose to the 2.7 ??? any help or info would real help ( long wheel base in both )
help im stuck
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clivvy
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3.0L terrano unless you have tons of money to fix your patrol when it breaks. Both are reliable and strong, but from what I have seen, the Patrol will cost you considerable money to run and repair if it breaks. The 3.0L terrano, I believe, gives better economy and MPG, not heard of any major issues but someone will be along with more info than me. For me, 2.7l is ample, but as the 3.0l is much rarer, not many of us got the choice, so i'd go for the 3.0l
jims-terrano
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3.0L terrano unless you have tons of money to fix your patrol when it breaks. Both are reliable and strong, but from what I have seen, the Patrol will cost you considerable money to run and repair if it breaks. The 3.0L terrano, I believe, gives better economy and MPG, not heard of any major issues but someone will be along with more info than me. For me, 2.7l is ample, but as the 3.0l is much rarer, not many of us got the choice, so i'd go for the 3.0l
I agree with you Clive but I have to say I prefer the 2.7 simply because it has gear driven timing so no belts or chains. Also I've heard of a temp sensor problem with 3litre but that's all really. Have a drive of both trol and Terrano and see what you think. Terrano is better for car parks, trol is a bigger so not as easy in car parks.
Jim
lacroupade
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If you find a good one I'd teeter on the 3.0 side of the fence, but mainly because of fuel economy - 32mpg combined compared to around 25mpg for the 2.7, plus another 25bhp which it needs really.
But the T2 is much more flexible than the Patrol because of its car-like width and driving experience...plus, as mentioned the Patrol isn't a cheap truck to run properly....
If it had been an old banger I might have advised differently but you're going to layout more cash on a recent vehicle so better to pick the right one
If you plan to tow anything be aware the automatic has a lot lower towing weight.
good luck! :thumb2
But the T2 is much more flexible than the Patrol because of its car-like width and driving experience...plus, as mentioned the Patrol isn't a cheap truck to run properly....
If it had been an old banger I might have advised differently but you're going to layout more cash on a recent vehicle so better to pick the right one
If you plan to tow anything be aware the automatic has a lot lower towing weight.
good luck! :thumb2
thanks alot for your replies I will test drive a terrano I think both 2.7/3.0l .. they are a great size so every day parking etc wont be a problem . were as the patrol could be a bad head in tight parking areas .. I read that the terranos are good for realy high milage aswell .. ok choice made terrono it is.. any further info tips would be greatly recived ...THANKS...
clivvy
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as ever with used cars, lots of things to check with Terranos/mavericks.
exterior - check those sills and front wheel arches. Get your hand right under the sill nearest the rear wheels, and run along to the front. ensure no rust, as these sills can store water if the front drains (between the front outer wing and inner wing seen through the lower gap in the door when you open it) are blocked with mud and crap.
Pull the codes if you can after a drive, ensure either way that the MIL light does actually work. Check for rust between the rear bumper and door opening.
check the gearbox - look for oil, same with the rear diff. Open the bonnet, get your head in there and check that the rad is ok, engine mounts ok, and check there are no leaks into the cab from the engin ebay, in particular passenger side near the air box.
Check the car pulls well, a dirty MAF will affect power. Check smoke on startup and acceleration, either have someone watch you drive off, or someone in the back seat.
poke you hands into the rear wheel arch. you will see a big bolt, thats the seatbelt mounting, ensure this is rust free otherwise thats a welding job and MOT failure.
Make sure both horns work, failry easy to change but means taking the front grille off.
after that, its all the usual stuff, chek for knocks and noises. Get the wheels on ful lock, both ways, and spin it round, listen for noise or knocks. a whopping great knock on full lock may just be bump stops that need grease-this is common and no problem, anything more and its expensive.
good luck!
exterior - check those sills and front wheel arches. Get your hand right under the sill nearest the rear wheels, and run along to the front. ensure no rust, as these sills can store water if the front drains (between the front outer wing and inner wing seen through the lower gap in the door when you open it) are blocked with mud and crap.
Pull the codes if you can after a drive, ensure either way that the MIL light does actually work. Check for rust between the rear bumper and door opening.
check the gearbox - look for oil, same with the rear diff. Open the bonnet, get your head in there and check that the rad is ok, engine mounts ok, and check there are no leaks into the cab from the engin ebay, in particular passenger side near the air box.
Check the car pulls well, a dirty MAF will affect power. Check smoke on startup and acceleration, either have someone watch you drive off, or someone in the back seat.
poke you hands into the rear wheel arch. you will see a big bolt, thats the seatbelt mounting, ensure this is rust free otherwise thats a welding job and MOT failure.
Make sure both horns work, failry easy to change but means taking the front grille off.
after that, its all the usual stuff, chek for knocks and noises. Get the wheels on ful lock, both ways, and spin it round, listen for noise or knocks. a whopping great knock on full lock may just be bump stops that need grease-this is common and no problem, anything more and its expensive.
good luck!
