Had a close shave today....

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Lazy-Ferret

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
5,217
So today I set to work upgrading the suspension...

New "Trail Master" +2" springs, and +2" ES9000 shocks on the rear, plus standard ES9000 shocks on the front.

Rear was a dream to do, the front was a real pig...

Anyway, while doing the rear, I struggled to get the car up high enough off the ground, as my axle stands, while nice and big, are still not tall enough to drop the rear axle down enough to fit the springs. I have some nice blocks of wood we use under the steadies of the caravan, each block is 1.5" thick, and 8" x 6" in size, with a layer of 3/8" aluminium checker plate screwed to one side. I stacked 2 of these on top of each other, and put another 2 beside them so effectively making a block 3.75" high, and 12" x 8" area, and stood the axle stands on top of these.

We have an impressed concrete drive way, and sometimes the trolley jack wedges into the grooves, and instead of moving as it lifts the car, it sticks into place, and shifts the car instead not normally a problem, as I always chock the wheels, so it tends to settle back into the same place.

Today, I had the car nicely on the stands, but needed to lift the axle up to line up the shocks, so lifted it using the trolley jack sideways under the car, at the end of the axle I was working on. The Shocks came supplied in the closed position, with a length of packing band round them, so in order to get the axle up high enough, I was having to jack the axle right up, putting the full weight of the car onto it. What I did not think about though, was the fact that because the Jack was getting stuck in the grooves, it shifted the car sideways each time I used it, and as I let it down off the jack for the final time, I had not realised that the stands had walked to the the edge of the wood blocks.

So, instead of the car stopping as I expected, when it rested again on the stands, the stands tipped over sideways, and the car shifted to the OffSide about 18", and the Nearside rear tyre landed on my upper arm... Luckily not right on it, so no real damage, other than a big bruise.

I am going to have to try and find some 2foot tall axle stands now....
 
Ooops:thumb2 Hindsight is a wonderful thing:thumbs
You can cut the band and expand the shox, they are easy to compress by hand as they are a damper not a spring.
 
Ooops:thumb2 Hindsight is a wonderful thing:thumbs
You can cut the band and expand the shox, they are easy to compress by hand as they are a damper not a spring.

Thanks for that, they could do with some form of info in/on the box about that really... Never having fitted them before, I was worried that they may extend, and then I would not be able to compress them enough to get them back on...

Still it's all done now and a few lessons learnt. I also fitted BigBunnys extended and uprated drop links on the rear as well...
 
I am always cautious when jacking up:augie once the wheels are off I slide them under the chassis so at least if it does all go tits at least the fire brigade can get a jack under the car and I am only squished to the height of the wheel :D
 
I am always cautious when jacking up:augie once the wheels are off I slide them under the chassis so at least if it does all go tits at least the fire brigade can get a jack under the car and I am only squished to the height of the wheel :D

I do the same... Luckily I still had the wheels on the car this time. Ironically, I thought I was one of those people who goes a bit OTT on being safe when working on the car. I always use stands, which are rated at 3tonne, I have a very solid set of ramps, I use wheel chocks, but I surprised myself today with this... I have never changed shocks before, so I was too focused on making sure I got it all right there, and forgot to check the stands each time I used the jack.
 
your primary error was not to cut the bands, you would really struggle to get the axle up to fully compressed shock point, if not impossible, Rick
 
your primary error was not to cut the bands, you would really struggle to get the axle up to fully compressed shock point, if not impossible, Rick

Thanks...:doh

Ironic, that I was being careful, by only cutting the bands when the shocks were safely in position.

I think we should have a tutorial on fitting front and rear shocks...:lol
 
Close one but glad your ok:thumbs cutting the bands off would have meant you wouldn't have had to lift the axle as high up but i'm sure you'll remember the next time you come to do it on this truck or another one:augie Our drive is concrete & has slight ribs in it plus it's on a slight slope can be handy at time but a pain other times
 
So today I set to work upgrading the suspension...

New "Trail Master" +2" springs, and +2" ES9000 shocks on the rear, plus standard ES9000 shocks on the front.

Rear was a dream to do, the front was a real pig...

Anyway, while doing the rear, I struggled to get the car up high enough off the ground, as my axle stands, while nice and big, are still not tall enough to drop the rear axle down enough to fit the springs. I have some nice blocks of wood we use under the steadies of the caravan, each block is 1.5" thick, and 8" x 6" in size, with a layer of 3/8" aluminium checker plate screwed to one side. I stacked 2 of these on top of each other, and put another 2 beside them so effectively making a block 3.75" high, and 12" x 8" area, and stood the axle stands on top of these.

We have an impressed concrete drive way, and sometimes the trolley jack wedges into the grooves, and instead of moving as it lifts the car, it sticks into place, and shifts the car instead not normally a problem, as I always chock the wheels, so it tends to settle back into the same place.

Today, I had the car nicely on the stands, but needed to lift the axle up to line up the shocks, so lifted it using the trolley jack sideways under the car, at the end of the axle I was working on. The Shocks came supplied in the closed position, with a length of packing band round them, so in order to get the axle up high enough, I was having to jack the axle right up, putting the full weight of the car onto it. What I did not think about though, was the fact that because the Jack was getting stuck in the grooves, it shifted the car sideways each time I used it, and as I let it down off the jack for the final time, I had not realised that the stands had walked to the the edge of the wood blocks.

So, instead of the car stopping as I expected, when it rested again on the stands, the stands tipped over sideways, and the car shifted to the OffSide about 18", and the Nearside rear tyre landed on my upper arm... Luckily not right on it, so no real damage, other than a big bruise.

I am going to have to try and find some 2foot tall axle stands now....

I have a similar issue with using a trolley jack. My surface is compacted gravel with dirt surface so the trolley jack won't roll.

My solution is to use a good quality sheet of 3/8" exterior ply (shuttering ply is not dense enough) with a thin sheet of steel on top, this allows the trolley jack to adjust itself with each movement of the arm without adding too much of an obstacle under the vehicle.

:thumb2
 
Lesson one#
If you think a trolley jack has issues! Be a pro and try using a high lift jack:lol...................:eek:............:bow
 
I had a close shave once........ It was a while ago though :augie How's yours coming on Rob?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Lucky escape.
I was looking at these a couple of evenings ago.
CFF-001-001-2.jpg
 
Lesson one#
If you think a trolley jack has issues! Be a pro and try using a high lift jack:lol...................:eek:............:bow

True... I am very weary of the High Lift, used it more for removing fence posts that lifting the car...:lol

Lucky escape.
I was looking at these a couple of evenings ago.
CFF-001-001-2.jpg

What is it for?

Looks like it is designed to be used on some form of soft stuff to spread the load.
 
True... I am very weary of the High Lift, used it more for removing fence posts that lifting the car...:lol



What is it for?

Looks like it is designed to be used on some form of soft stuff to spread the load
.

Pretty much, yes, for use on softer surfaces. But I think it'd prevent the jack wheels getting caught in ruts in driveways as illustrated above.
 

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