glow plugs

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zippy656

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Aug 30, 2008
Messages
14,077
Please can some one tell me how to check the glow plugs and relay

None starting diesel/veggie mixed. Was thinking just to cold but now not so sure.



Tar.
 
Please can some one tell me how to check the glow plugs and relay

None starting diesel/veggie mixed. Was thinking just to cold but now not so sure.



Tar.

The relays rarely fail so we'll deal with that one last

Start with the plugs, remove the intercooler and pull the two black pipes out of the way.

Get someone in the car on the keys and with a multimeter test the plugs one by one, I always just check for voltage across them just over 12v on mine which then goes off with the click of the relay and then comes back on with the next click of the relay.

I'd then be taking the bus bar off and removing each plug ensuring before hand that you spray lots of penetrating fluid at the base, people say to use a special plug removal tool however if you have a keen eye and a steady hand a long reach 12mm socket will do it

Once they are out, get the old jump leads out and connected to the battery, negative around the body and positive at the base for a few seconds should see the plug glow bright red like this

20141017_184035.jpg
 
Last edited:
Slight error there Banshee...

When the Bus-bar is connected, you can't test the plugs one by one. While the Bus-bar is on, you are just checking the relay is passing up the voltage to the plugs. Once you remove the Bus-bar, you can then use the Resistance (Ohms) range of the meter to check each plug individually, where they should read almost a dead short (2 to 0 Ohms). This is not 100% proof that they are OK, but if they do not read a very low resistance, then they are definably dead.

Just found this helpful video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Po_1pNHE1Y
 
Slight error there Banshee...

When the Bus-bar is connected, you can't test the plugs one by one. While the Bus-bar is on, you are just checking the relay is passing up the voltage to the plugs. Once you remove the Bus-bar, you can then use the Resistance (Ohms) range of the meter to check each plug individually, where they should read almost a dead short (2 to 0 Ohms). This is not 100% proof that they are OK, but if they do not read a very low resistance, then they are definably dead.

Just found this helpful video..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Po_1pNHE1Y

I always do a voltage test before each plug on the bus bar as I have known corrosion of the bar cause the last 2 fully functioning plugs to not kick in at all, personally I don't like the ohms test as I find it not to be very accurate.

Also, It's nice to rip the plugs out and do the jump lead test because you can physically see them glowing and categorically know that they are working, plus for those guys brave enough to be using ceramic tipped one's it's a good time to see if you've lost any of it in the cylinder :augie
 
I always do a voltage test before each plug on the bus bar as I have known corrosion of the bar cause the last 2 fully functioning plugs to not kick in at all, personally I don't like the ohms test as I find it not to be very accurate.

Also, It's nice to rip the plugs out and do the jump lead test because you can physically see them glowing and categorically know that they are working, plus for those guys brave enough to be using ceramic tipped one's it's a good time to see if you've lost any of it in the cylinder :augie

The ohm test is only a guide, mind you, so is the voltage test, as neither actually prove the end is glowing red hot. As you say, the only real way, is to whip them out and test them, but that can also have negative impact, if they snap.

For your voltage test on each plug to work, I take it, you mean you actually measure the voltage by sticking the probe right on the top of the plug, in the centre of the terminal nut, so you can see the voltage is making it all the way to the glowplug.
 
The ohm test is only a guide, mind you, so is the voltage test, as neither actually prove the end is glowing red hot. As you say, the only real way, is to whip them out and test them, but that can also have negative impact, if they snap.

For your voltage test on each plug to work, I take it, you mean you actually measure the voltage by sticking the probe right on the top of the plug, in the centre of the terminal nut, so you can see the voltage is making it all the way to the glowplug.
you've got it mate I also just check the bar as awell to make sure it reads 12v ish all over
 
Please can some one tell me how to check the glow plugs and relay

None starting diesel/veggie mixed. Was thinking just to cold but now not so sure.



Tar.

is it turning over and just not starting or, nothing at all?
 
is it turning over and just not starting or, nothing at all?

Turning over.

All sorted now.

Eqsy start, then put some diesel in. Was very low and think mostly cooking oil.been a bit cold here too
 
One point of note for everyone doing glow plugs, they are taper seat seals to the head so once the pug stops tuning only the merest nip is enough to seal it, any more and it will be overtightened and possibly difficult to remove in years to come, Rick
 
Is there anyway of being able to tell which type of glow plugs are fitted to mine without taking them out. Dont fancy risking a broken plug but I do worry about them being ceramic. Which were fitted from new?
 
Is there anyway of being able to tell which type of glow plugs are fitted to mine without taking them out. Dont fancy risking a broken plug but I do worry about them being ceramic. Which were fitted from new?

only with mirrors, phone cameras etc to try and read the numbers on the plugs, Rick
 
At some point my intercooler will have to come off to replace the leak off pipes. Is it worth me getting the mechanic to replace the glow plugs as a matter of course?
 
At some point my intercooler will have to come off to replace the leak off pipes. Is it worth me getting the mechanic to replace the glow plugs as a matter of course?

To be honest at just over a tenner a time I would just replace them, much cheaper than a replacement engine, Rick
 

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