Fuel cleaner

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On start up from cold the engine was very noisy like a loud tapping but subsided when warm, I was told by a garage that it was worn shims and it would be over £1000 to replace the shims. After running the truck for 1/2 a tank of fuel with the fuel system cleaner the tapping has gone and the truck is much more responsive when warm, I've yet to check fuel consumption as I just filled up again but I'm sure now the injectors, valves etc are free from carbon I will get a few more mpg. But one thing for sure cleaning the fuel system has definitely quietened the engine down.
 
Well let me state a known fact that NOTHING IN THE WORLD DISSOLVES CARBON, all these cleaners can do is dissolve gum deposits, nuf said, Rick
 
I can only assume then you are a chemist?

Not at all, I have just been in the diesel game for many many years, and have seen the Cummings and goings of all sorts of magic in the can fixes, most of which are formulated simply to relieve you of as many £s as they can, now I am not saying your treatment did not work, far from it, but it was gum that it shifted not carbon, think about it! it was added to your fuel, so it was only cleaning the injector pump, and to a lesser degree the injectors, now in the fuel pump is a piston/plunger that meters the fuel, if this gets sticky due to gum then erratic running is to be expected, once the additive hits the combustion chamber it is dead, so not even high temperature burning of carbon is possible unless you wanted an over heated engine, Rick
 
Just realized you have 3, not familiar with the numbers but is yours the COMMON RAIL version? if so this is a different set up altogether, even if it is not common rail do not even think about anything other than forecourt fuel, or you will kill it, Rick
 
He'll be okay Rick, my 3.0 has had a fair amount of 2 stroke through it with the diesel along with the odd dash of redex and she's fine :thumbs
 
The Carbon problem a Chemical Engineers Answer !

I can only assume then you are a chemist?

I have a B.Sc in Chemical Engineering and I have had a chat with my mate who is a retired Industrial Inorganic Chemist (ex I.C.I.) to try and come up with a definitive answer for everyone that is scientifically correct without going too complicated.

For all practical purposes pure Carbon is insoluble in that there is no solvent that will put it into solution. Carbon Disulphide that normally exists as a gas will react and remove pure Carbon deposits in theory but there is a snag. If the Carbon is stuck to a metal then it will take your metal preferentially. We are talking here about the common form of Amorphous Carbon not it's Allotropes like Graphite and Diamond.

As Solarman216 has correctly stated there are products on the market that are quite good at removing Carbon based deposits that have layers of oil molecules attached in the form of residues caused by combustion etc. In these cases like Domestic Oven Cleaners that use Alkaline based products you are not dissolving the carbon but breaking up the adhesion that is your burnt dinner, fat smoke etc.

One of the best "Old School" ways of removing engine type carbon deposits was to put your part in a Tichoethylene Tank. These were enclosed tanks in which you would suspend your part. e.g. Engine Block and close the lid. The Tank contained a heater that would vapourise the Trichoethylene and it would condense back into the sump that had a filter in it. Leave your parts in there for 24 hours and they would come out like new bare metal from the factory.

I used one regularly in the 1960-1970 period but they have been withdrawn from the market due to the Carsiogenic properties of Trichoethylene.

Another way of removing carbon deposits (not pure carbon) is when an engine is running if you raise the burn temperature inside the combustion chamber area the depth of the build up is reduced as the deposits ignite. This what 2T oil does along with a raft of "Fuel Additives"

Hope this helps everyone.
 
Ok, point taken, i will rephrase my description. The fuel cleaner has removed enough of the build up of shite in my injectors and fuel system that the tapping noise is no longer there and its definatley more responsive. I used to get 400 miles to a tank roughly, i know its not going to be accurate but it will give me a general guide when i fill it back up. BTW its a direct injection i believe not common rail
 
Quieter engine - thats a result.

Ok, point taken, i will rephrase my description. The fuel cleaner has removed enough of the build up of shite in my injectors and fuel system that the tapping noise is no longer there and its definatley more responsive. I used to get 400 miles to a tank roughly, i know its not going to be accurate but it will give me a general guide when i fill it back up. BTW its a direct injection i believe not common rail

I have no doubt that a good dose of various products on the market added to the fuel give real gains in terms of improved performance, sometimes economy, noise reduction etc. Some are quite good at shifting carbon based deposits from valve stems, injectors etc.

The real issue is how long does the effect last for and how often do you need to re-treat and what is the cost element.

I myself have always used and promoted the addition of small amounts of 2T oil to both Diesel and Petrol tanks as they have in my experience given similar benefits - noise reduction, small improvement in fuel economy etc.

Indeed I had a Petrol W124 series 260 E Mercedes saloon a few years ago that would never start instantly especially in the winter. It always needed a bit of cranking 3-5 seconds before it started.She had done 115k when I bought her so I was not expecting miracles but if I added 500 ml of cheap 2T oi to the tank every month or so she would start instantly hot or cold. When I sold her she had 184k on the clock t was a pre-cat model.

Where I work part time at a MB dealership we have in the past have had a number of products promoted via Inchcape to give new life to older engines. These have included the use of engine flush products (that I personally would never use) and fuel additives.

As a footnote if the additive is particularly good you might need to do a fuel filter change as some of the gunk might be shifted downstream so as to speak. I know those who run on veg oil have issues with its cleansing properties in the fuel lines.
 
I enjoyed reading this thread. Thanks for not getting to scientific as I am nearer an idiot than a professor:D:thumbs
 
I have no doubt that a good dose of various products on the market added to the fuel give real gains in terms of improved performance, sometimes economy, noise reduction etc. Some are quite good at shifting carbon based deposits from valve stems, injectors etc.

The real issue is how long does the effect last for and how often do you need to re-treat and what is the cost element.

I myself have always used and promoted the addition of small amounts of 2T oil to both Diesel and Petrol tanks as they have in my experience given similar benefits - noise reduction, small improvement in fuel economy etc.

Indeed I had a Petrol W124 series 260 E Mercedes saloon a few years ago that would never start instantly especially in the winter. It always needed a bit of cranking 3-5 seconds before it started.She had done 115k when I bought her so I was not expecting miracles but if I added 500 ml of cheap 2T oi to the tank every month or so she would start instantly hot or cold. When I sold her she had 184k on the clock t was a pre-cat model.

Where I work part time at a MB dealership we have in the past have had a number of products promoted via Inchcape to give new life to older engines. These have included the use of engine flush products (that I personally would never use) and fuel additives.

As a footnote if the additive is particularly good you might need to do a fuel filter change as some of the gunk might be shifted downstream so as to speak. I know those who run on veg oil have issues with its cleansing properties in the fuel lines.
This is archoil and they suggest using it every 5000 miles so for me that's about 3 times a year at a cost of just under 70 quid a year which I'm happy with considering the noise reduction I have achieved
 
I have always been led to believe that alot of these fuel system cleaners are kerosene based which burns hotter than diesel to remove the deposits.:nenau
 
Don't know if Kerosene is the solvent base but.....

I have always been led to believe that a lot of these fuel system cleaners are kerosene based which burns hotter than diesel to remove the deposits.:nenau

That's essentially right.

A friend of mine used to work for Lubrizol (circa 1980) the automotive oil testing company and he alerted me to the fact that 2T oil was virtually identical to Redex in terms of composition about 97% but at a fraction of the cost. Have used 2T oil ever since.

Now you could argue Human DNA is 90 % similar to a Cat.............
 
That's essentially right.

A friend of mine used to work for Lubrizol (circa 1980) the automotive oil testing company and he alerted me to the fact that 2T oil was virtually identical to Redex in terms of composition about 97% but at a fraction of the cost. Have used 2T oil ever since.

Now you could argue Human DNA is 90 % similar to a Cat.............


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDetwzG7igQ

:thumbs :lol
 

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