shadowbroker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2012
- Messages
- 192
Below is a little guide I made lastnight to help you fix your LCD odometer/clock. My way of trying to contribute to the community.
PHOTOS MAY BE A LITTLE LARGE
If your Terrano has an LCD (digital display) for the clock and odometer ect, and the numbers are becoming jumbled or non existent... then today is your lucky day. I’m gonna’ try to guide you through the process of being able to fix it yourself. Though I say Terrano, that’s just what I as working on, the basic process is the same for any LCD on the blink.
...............
1. You will need a few tools. For the Terrano specifically you will need a stubby posi-drive screwdriver. Also you will need a narrow flat head screwdriver, soldering iron (25w will be fine), solder, and optional but a good magnification unit always helps but isn’t 100% necessary. That’s all I used for this, but depending on your situation you might need a few other things
2. First you will need to remove your display. That’s pretty much been covered before and is more or less straightforward, but a quick run through... unscrew 3 screws hidden in the underside of the sun shroud (plastic that covers over the top of the display like a roof). Also unscrew the large plastic plate covering the lower dash section where your knees would be facing when driving (two screws bottom left and right. Another above the mirror button and a 4th with a plastic cap over it on the outer side hidden by the door). When gently pry away. After this find the remaining 2 sun shroud screws bottom left and right. And remove shroud. Finally remove 4 screws holding display in place 2 top and bottom left and right... of course removing electronic connections as you go.
3. Now we need to remove the back plastic panel of the display. This is done by manipulating a few clips highlighted in the photo below.
4. Once that’s off you need to remove the PCB. First remove 4 screws as shown below and loosen clips as shown with a screwdriver. GENTLY pulling as you go. You don’t need to be Heman to pull it up. When pulling, bending and using tools near circuits, try not to damage any circuitry. See images below.
5. Once the board is free from its case it’s time to inspect and repair. While it’s out we may as well look at other parts. Such as capacitors 4 marked below. Rule of thumb with a capacitor if it’s bad the top will be rounded split or bubbled. If it’s ok then it will be flat or near as. If any are bad, replace them, very cheap at Maplin. When changing its ok to step up the volts but the microfarad must not change. So a bad cap at 20v400uf you could happy replace with 35v400uf for example. Also replace dead or dying bulbs while it’s all out. Especially the ones for the LCD
6. The pins for the LCD are shown below. This is where the problem is. The joints become dry. Meaning the solder is no longer keeping the pin connected to the board anymore and new solder needs to be ironed in place. I have taken close up images of the bad joints via magnifying glass too.
7. Close-up images of the dry joints via magnifying glass.
8. Heat your soldering iron, giving it a few minutes to get to temperature. I only used a 25w iron, I find 25w a good balance for simple PCB units. Not too hot to burn trough tracks, especially on older brittle boards. If you have an iron of a higher wattage, just keep in mind it will heat up the components and pins much quicker so keep your contact time to a minimum. All you need to do is quickly tin the legs that are bad and no longer connected to the board, however its good practice to re-tin every leg as I have done. Keeping in mind you just need a bit of a touch of fresh solder on each leg, nothing excessive, you don’t want to use too much, and have your pins all soldered together :-S A good technique is to start at the base with your iron and solder, then run up to the tip of the leg/pin.
9. Finally reassemble your display, simply the reversal of the process used to disassemble your display. Then put that bad boy back into your vehicle and put everything back how it was when you first sat in the driver’s seat. Then look at your success and feel good about yourself, because you fixed it yourself. Finally your trip counter will have reset.
Enjoy and thank you for reading, now go fourth and solder,
Shadowbr0ker
PHOTOS MAY BE A LITTLE LARGE
Repair of Terrano odometer LCD
If your Terrano has an LCD (digital display) for the clock and odometer ect, and the numbers are becoming jumbled or non existent... then today is your lucky day. I’m gonna’ try to guide you through the process of being able to fix it yourself. Though I say Terrano, that’s just what I as working on, the basic process is the same for any LCD on the blink.
...............
1. You will need a few tools. For the Terrano specifically you will need a stubby posi-drive screwdriver. Also you will need a narrow flat head screwdriver, soldering iron (25w will be fine), solder, and optional but a good magnification unit always helps but isn’t 100% necessary. That’s all I used for this, but depending on your situation you might need a few other things
2. First you will need to remove your display. That’s pretty much been covered before and is more or less straightforward, but a quick run through... unscrew 3 screws hidden in the underside of the sun shroud (plastic that covers over the top of the display like a roof). Also unscrew the large plastic plate covering the lower dash section where your knees would be facing when driving (two screws bottom left and right. Another above the mirror button and a 4th with a plastic cap over it on the outer side hidden by the door). When gently pry away. After this find the remaining 2 sun shroud screws bottom left and right. And remove shroud. Finally remove 4 screws holding display in place 2 top and bottom left and right... of course removing electronic connections as you go.
3. Now we need to remove the back plastic panel of the display. This is done by manipulating a few clips highlighted in the photo below.
4. Once that’s off you need to remove the PCB. First remove 4 screws as shown below and loosen clips as shown with a screwdriver. GENTLY pulling as you go. You don’t need to be Heman to pull it up. When pulling, bending and using tools near circuits, try not to damage any circuitry. See images below.
5. Once the board is free from its case it’s time to inspect and repair. While it’s out we may as well look at other parts. Such as capacitors 4 marked below. Rule of thumb with a capacitor if it’s bad the top will be rounded split or bubbled. If it’s ok then it will be flat or near as. If any are bad, replace them, very cheap at Maplin. When changing its ok to step up the volts but the microfarad must not change. So a bad cap at 20v400uf you could happy replace with 35v400uf for example. Also replace dead or dying bulbs while it’s all out. Especially the ones for the LCD
6. The pins for the LCD are shown below. This is where the problem is. The joints become dry. Meaning the solder is no longer keeping the pin connected to the board anymore and new solder needs to be ironed in place. I have taken close up images of the bad joints via magnifying glass too.
7. Close-up images of the dry joints via magnifying glass.
8. Heat your soldering iron, giving it a few minutes to get to temperature. I only used a 25w iron, I find 25w a good balance for simple PCB units. Not too hot to burn trough tracks, especially on older brittle boards. If you have an iron of a higher wattage, just keep in mind it will heat up the components and pins much quicker so keep your contact time to a minimum. All you need to do is quickly tin the legs that are bad and no longer connected to the board, however its good practice to re-tin every leg as I have done. Keeping in mind you just need a bit of a touch of fresh solder on each leg, nothing excessive, you don’t want to use too much, and have your pins all soldered together :-S A good technique is to start at the base with your iron and solder, then run up to the tip of the leg/pin.
9. Finally reassemble your display, simply the reversal of the process used to disassemble your display. Then put that bad boy back into your vehicle and put everything back how it was when you first sat in the driver’s seat. Then look at your success and feel good about yourself, because you fixed it yourself. Finally your trip counter will have reset.
Enjoy and thank you for reading, now go fourth and solder,
Shadowbr0ker
