Fixing my Maverick

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clivvy

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HI guys,

soem of you know about my MOT woes, well, car is STILL off the road, hasnt been driven properly or regularly now for well over 5 months.

Anyway, not getting rid, I want it fixed. I could do with some practical advice if you will, so I can go armed to the garage with some knowlege.

Thisis body work related, so to explain:

car failed MOT on various things, 3 points being welding. Thats the two rear OUTER sills, and a bit NEAR to the master break cylinder (which frankly I think is arguable). The corroded sills are obvious granted, and we are talking a broken hole each side.

I understand when welding you hav eto cut out the affected area and re weld a new peice of metal. This is fine, but what are the options? I ask because I notice a lot of offroaders with chequer plating etc on the sills, so assume this is an option?? whats the easiest and cheapest way to fix the rusted sills??

CIMG1742.jpg


its the same exactly on the other side
hope you can help!
 
HI guys,

soem of you know about my MOT woes, well, car is STILL off the road, hasnt been driven properly or regularly now for well over 5 months.

Anyway, not getting rid, I want it fixed. I could do with some practical advice if you will, so I can go armed to the garage with some knowlege.

Thisis body work related, so to explain:

car failed MOT on various things, 3 points being welding. Thats the two rear OUTER sills, and a bit NEAR to the master break cylinder (which frankly I think is arguable). The corroded sills are obvious granted, and we are talking a broken hole each side.

I understand when welding you hav eto cut out the affected area and re weld a new peice of metal. This is fine, but what are the options? I ask because I notice a lot of offroaders with chequer plating etc on the sills, so assume this is an option?? whats the easiest and cheapest way to fix the rusted sills??

CIMG1742.jpg


its the same exactly on the other side
hope you can help!

hi clivvy, i do a bit of the dreaded rot welding and i would cut all the rot out as you mentioned, and form new metal to shape and weld ALL the way round plate, clean weld with grinder and paint or underseal when finished, thats the cheapest way, but remember that a small hole will become a lot bigger once they have used a ginder on it, original metal needs to be clean, alot of people say, it's only a small hole, it turns out 3 times bigger once cleaned, and the rear of the sill will proberly need welding as well, hope this helps.:thumbs
 
if its covered they cant test it simples


but if you cover it and dont fix it it will be too far gone and go beond repair vary fast


why not sell it buy another one thats nicer
 
P2070216.jpg


I had the same , I just had it plated and filled it with waxoyl.

P4070322.jpg


P4070317.jpg
 
if its covered they cant test it simples


but if you cover it and dont fix it it will be too far gone and go beond repair vary fast


why not sell it buy another one thats nicer

I thought of that, not worth it. as it is, I wont get much because of the MOT failures, and I wouldnt be able to afford a better one, it seems to me its more cost effective to fix, besides, theres nowt wrong with other than the MOT failures and CKP sensor, already spent a bit of money on it, so may as well carry on see how it goes...
 
ok well why not just cover it till you can afford a good proper fix. maybe once its mot'd run it down to tezza or another member to help fix it up nice
 
Are the MOT fails not kept on record now that all test centres will see?

Jim T
they are kept on record for everyone to see now. depends wher you take it though, if its covered they are not alowed to take stuff off to look
my pick up had 2 holes in the load area it failed . fxed holes made a load cover took it back and he couldnt check repairs . cos it was covered

waste a bloody time and money
:augie
 
That does look almost exactly the same as mine! Can I ask, how much did it cost you to put right?

£35 per side for the welding
2 rattle cans of underseal
5ltrs of waxoyl

£100 total if that ?
 
too right, £100 sounds perfect to me, that the sort of price I need to be paying!! shame your mechanic is so far from me, but I hav ea few I need to ring round but I will keep that figure in mind.
 
Drill a 5mm hole in the lower edge of the sill (or afew along it), squirt in the waxoyl, allow the excess to drain, then seal holes with rubber gromits.
 
perfick, i'll do that!

I plan, once fixed, to give the car a thorough cleaning underneath and full wax oyl treatment because I dont want to go down the rust bucket route for a while yet!
 
Along the back of the sill are a series of holes filled with grommets, you can feel them if you run your fingers along the inside and you can see them from underneath. Pull em out and squirt! regards bri
 
Quick tip

fill a bucket with boiling water and put waxoil can in water , keep it hot or it comes out like jelly , which is No F good to anyone.

P4070320.jpg
 

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