First start of the day

[bbbmmm55]

So yesterday and today ive had some issues getting the car started. I have had a search and tried some of the various checks and tests.
Firstly I put the battery on charge then checked it volts 12 hours after changing after it had been sat in the garage and it read 12.90 volts. Now the battery has no label on it so im unaware of its ahs or cca.
Ive checked the relay as per manual all seemed fine.
Checked resistance of the plugs, now 1 the first gave me a very small resistance reading but the others were all OL. I put this down maybe to not having clean contact with the meter probe and nut indicated in the manual when testing. So I whipped them out and tested with some jump leads, all were glowing within a few seconds. Im guessing if they were really OL then they wouldnt glow with the battery directly connected to them.
With the engine on fast idle im measuring 14.18 volts across the battery. On normal idle but with everything on im getting 13 volts just but this starts too drop. Now will this carry on dropping till something realises the battery is discharging and the alternator needs to kick in? Im unsure if this indicates a problem so any guidance would be appreciated.
Now the two mornings it wouldnt fire I crancked the battery over till it felt like it was dying with the odd splutter but nothing consistant. How long should the battery ideally be able to crank like that for. I know its very strenuous on them especially if cold.
1 small whiff of easy start into air intake and it goes first turn of the key.
After reading a thread i saw that an air leak can cause the oil in the lines to drain back into the tank over night giving starting issues. I do have clear hosing either side of filter so would i see bubbles through it if this was the case. My drive is on a slope so would that cause issues with the oil draining back to take if an air leak is present?
After reading a few threads id rather not have to rely on easy start to get going and would like to solve the issue before doing other work to the old girl.
Anybody got some ideas I can try or any threads they can point me to please.

 

[Banshee]

So yesterday and today ive had some issues getting the car started. I have had a search and tried some of the various checks and tests.
Firstly I put the battery on charge then checked it volts 12 hours after changing after it had been sat in the garage and it read 12.90 volts. Now the battery has no label on it so im unaware of its ahs or cca.
Ive checked the relay as per manual all seemed fine.
Checked resistance of the plugs, now 1 the first gave me a very small resistance reading but the others were all OL. I put this down maybe to not having clean contact with the meter probe and nut indicated in the manual when testing. So I whipped them out and tested with some jump leads, all were glowing within a few seconds. Im guessing if they were really OL then they wouldnt glow with the battery directly connected to them.
With the engine on fast idle im measuring 14.18 volts across the battery. On normal idle but with everything on im getting 13 volts just but this starts too drop. Now will this carry on dropping till something realises the battery is discharging and the alternator needs to kick in? Im unsure if this indicates a problem so any guidance would be appreciated.
Now the two mornings it wouldnt fire I crancked the battery over till it felt like it was dying with the odd splutter but nothing consistant. How long should the battery ideally be able to crank like that for. I know its very strenuous on them especially if cold.
1 small whiff of easy start into air intake and it goes first turn of the key.
After reading a thread i saw that an air leak can cause the oil in the lines to drain back into the tank over night giving starting issues. I do have clear hosing either side of filter so would i see bubbles through it if this was the case. My drive is on a slope so would that cause issues with the oil draining back to take if an air leak is present?
After reading a few threads id rather not have to rely on easy start to get going and would like to solve the issue before doing other work to the old girl.
Anybody got some ideas I can try or any threads they can point me to please.

Is the IP re attached to the truck correctly now? Sounds like you've got fuelling issues to me.

Clear hose is deffo the way forward at the fuel filter, if you see bubbles you have problems.

Stick at it mate, I know you've only just brought it but don't be put off

 

[rustic]

So yesterday and today ive had some issues getting the car started. I have had a search and tried some of the various checks and tests.
Firstly I put the battery on charge then checked it volts 12 hours after changing after it had been sat in the garage and it read 12.90 volts. Now the battery has no label on it so im unaware of its ahs or cca.
Ive checked the relay as per manual all seemed fine.
Checked resistance of the plugs, now 1 the first gave me a very small resistance reading but the others were all OL. I put this down maybe to not having clean contact with the meter probe and nut indicated in the manual when testing. So I whipped them out and tested with some jump leads, all were glowing within a few seconds. Im guessing if they were really OL then they wouldnt glow with the battery directly connected to them.
With the engine on fast idle im measuring 14.18 volts across the battery. On normal idle but with everything on im getting 13 volts just but this starts too drop. Now will this carry on dropping till something realises the battery is discharging and the alternator needs to kick in? Im unsure if this indicates a problem so any guidance would be appreciated.
Now the two mornings it wouldnt fire I crancked the battery over till it felt like it was dying with the odd splutter but nothing consistant. How long should the battery ideally be able to crank like that for. I know its very strenuous on them especially if cold.
1 small whiff of easy start into air intake and it goes first turn of the key.
After reading a thread i saw that an air leak can cause the oil in the lines to drain back into the tank over night giving starting issues. I do have clear hosing either side of filter so would i see bubbles through it if this was the case. My drive is on a slope so would that cause issues with the oil draining back to take if an air leak is present?
After reading a few threads id rather not have to rely on easy start to get going and would like to solve the issue before doing other work to the old girl.
Anybody got some ideas I can try or any threads they can point me to please.

Battery charging regime looks close to normal, but if the battery is old and tired, it won't provide the cranking amps. If you can monitor the battery voltage whilst starting, that might indicate a tired battery.

Try parking the vehicle the other way around, ie nose down, this might show an improvement if fuel is draining back to the tank.
Also check for fuel leaks around the leak off pipes, very common problem, and cheap and easy to resolve.
It doesn't take much air in the system to stall it, as there is no fuel pump as such, the injector pump on the engine is where the fuel is "sucked" so any air between injector pump and filter, won't be seen, and will give your symptoms.

Also, release fuel tank filler, you might hear a hiss as air goes into the tank, this won't help your current situation, so release the night before and again before you start up.

A few things to look at there, takes time.:thumb2
Best regards,
Rustic

 

[Banshee]

Battery charging regime looks close to normal, but if the battery is old and tired, it won't provide the cranking amps. If you can monitor the battery voltage whilst starting, that might indicate a tired battery.

Try parking the vehicle the other way around, ie nose down, this might show an improvement if fuel is draining back to the tank.
Also check for fuel leaks around the leak off pipes, very common problem, and cheap and easy to resolve.
It doesn't take much air in the system to stall it, as there is no fuel pump as such, the injector pump on the engine is where the fuel is "sucked" so any air between injector pump and filter, won't be seen, and will give your symptoms.

Also, release fuel tank filler, you might hear a hiss as air goes into the tank, this won't help your current situation, so release the night before and again before you start up.

A few things to look at there, takes time.:thumb2
Best regards,
Rustic

He's already had the intercooler off and checked the leak off's when he was looking for his leak in the other thread where he determined that the IP wasn't quite attached to the truck correctly

 

[bbbmmm55]

Is the IP re attached to the truck correctly now? Sounds like you've got fuelling issues to me.

Clear hose is deffo the way forward at the fuel filter, if you see bubbles you have problems.

Stick at it mate, I know you've only just brought it but don't be put off

Defiantly not put off. Loving it so far. Having loads of fun driving about. Its like im flying compared to the jimny when my foots down. Just want to get it running nice and sound before I do other bits to it.

 

[bbbmmm55]

Battery charging regime looks close to normal, but if the battery is old and tired, it won't provide the cranking amps. If you can monitor the battery voltage whilst starting, that might indicate a tired battery.

Try parking the vehicle the other way around, ie nose down, this might show an improvement if fuel is draining back to the tank.
Also check for fuel leaks around the leak off pipes, very common problem, and cheap and easy to resolve.
It doesn't take much air in the system to stall it, as there is no fuel pump as such, the injector pump on the engine is where the fuel is "sucked" so any air between injector pump and filter, won't be seen, and will give your symptoms.

Also, release fuel tank filler, you might hear a hiss as air goes into the tank, this won't help your current situation, so release the night before and again before you start up.

A few things to look at there, takes time.:thumb2
Best regards,
Rustic

Will measure voltage during my next cold start as the battery seems good in itself but ive no way of knowing its rated cca. Gonna park the opposite way and see if the symtoms persist.

I like the suggestion for the filler cap to, thats a sneaky one. So by me letting air into the tank manually am I removing the vaccum so not to draw air in from somewhere else and empty the fuel pipes?

Thanks for the ideas

 

[macabethiel]

Fuel issues

Does your fuel filter have a manual priming pump ?
If it does try pumping until it's solid before you start her see if that improves anything.

Lastly once you have had it running and switch off will she re-start pretty much straight away afterwards ?

 

[panelbeater]

just read this.
i spoke on the phone and this has just started last couple of days,its been starting fine untill the playing with it,i will add no fixed fuel filter but the big red see through ones i have ran on my 2 terrys for years,clear pipes,no bubbles that i ever saw,4 new glows in summer,battery is a 90a terry one bout year old,new leak off pipes fitted summer,its not ever had any injector problems.
i would sugest looking at fuel ip pipes in tight as it seems something has been desturbed tightening pump.shame as its a good terry and should be easily sorted.

 

[bbbmmm55]

Im not using the standard fuel filter of I run on a mix of veg, have an inline large diesel filter that I changed to make sure it wasnt leaking. Been looking for a bio proof standard filter as having the option to manually prime the fuel system, especially when having starting issues. Seems silly not to have it in use, no luck on that front so far. So last night I parked facing the same down the drive, checked all my connections on the fuel lines and tank to make sure they were all tight enough.
Now I took Rustics advice of opening the fuel cap last thing and also this morning before firing her up.
Two cycles of listening for the relay to click, turn the key and she starts first time! Took about 5 seconds but no smoke out the back.
So was it coincedence or Rustics majic? :lol
Unfortunately I left my multimeter on all night so killed the battery. This ment I was unable to measure the volts during start so that will have to wait till tomorrow.

 

[rustic]

Just working my magic lol.

If it is consistent, then you are getting closer to a good fix.:thumb2

These trucks are great, had mine.... 22+ years, and many of you guys have made it up to my neck of the woods, this weekend, ie Cannock Chase, so despite breaking my arm yesterday in a fall, I am getting me and my truck to see the guys. Wife permitting of course...:lol Other's still welcome to come along.

On the quiet, I think they are more interested in my Mav, and I've not even said there are a couple of bottles of malt in the back yet lol....:beerchug:

Uncle Rustic

 

[macabethiel]

Im not using the standard fuel filter of I run on a mix of veg, have an inline large diesel filter that I changed to make sure it wasnt leaking. Been looking for a bio proof standard filter as having the option to manually prime the fuel system, especially when having starting issues. Seems silly not to have it in use, no luck on that front so far. So last night I parked facing the same down the drive, checked all my connections on the fuel lines and tank to make sure they were all tight enough.
Now I took Rustics advice of opening the fuel cap last thing and also this morning before firing her up.
Two cycles of listening for the relay to click, turn the key and she starts first time! Took about 5 seconds but no smoke out the back.
So was it coincedence or Rustics majic? :lol
Unfortunately I left my multimeter on all night so killed the battery. This ment I was unable to measure the volts during start so that will have to wait till tomorrow.

Looks as though it is fuel draining back then ?
As an aside can you not retain the original filter unit but remove the filter insides so the pump is in place and works and the filter case unit just become a reservoir ?

 

[rustic]

To help isolate issues like this, you can always do the 5 lt tank on the roof trick.
Syphon fuel direct to the filter. Tank on the roof.

Now this should create a 100% starter every time, BUT... if you have an air leak from the filter onwards, then the extra fuel pressure from the elevated tank might push the fuel out through any leaky joints, like injector return pipes, so check it regularly, you don't want 5 litres of diesel on your drive.:doh

Rustic

 

[panelbeater]

it has a none return valve on the feed pipe to filter,to stop gravity taking fuel back to tank like the factory one has.
the filter that was on it was about 9 months old clean fuel = clean filter,very little debris in it,you change the red filter to i guess a new one that i gave you,did you notice it only goes in one way,arrow on the side,did you pull fuel through to fill befor you connected the pipe, with a hand bulb pump or just kept turning it over,if so thats where you drained the battery.
the glow plug start stays on after the light goes off no need to redo it.
the start relay works as it should stays on untill lump gets to a temp.
you took out fuel sender and it was all clean,like i say clean fuel clean tank.
you have been cristoned into terrys now.
it sounds to me that there was air in there after you took fuel lines apart but on the slope the other way around it started fine so i would look at the leak off to tank line,maybe somewhere not tight or even pin hole in the steel pipe above the axel.
the feed line is a 10mm solid one i put on to give better flow so doupt it will be that,put on before the replacement ip.
i think it will work itself out though.air is hard to remove all in one go,being as you opened up tank and filter in one go lots to remove.
keep at it as teething trouble as all was well.

 

[Banshee]

I reckon you just crack the injectors until the clear lines have no bubbles :thumbs

 

[bbbmmm55]

Looks as though it is fuel draining back then ?
As an aside can you not retain the original filter unit but remove the filter insides so the pump is in place and works and the filter case unit just become a reservoir ?

Yeaterday and today she started fine. Now would the above work? Can I have feed from tank -> nrv -> Original filter (with no internals or veg friendly filter) -> ip.
I know it seems over kill but having the ability to prime seems worth it if it was needed.

I did pre fill the inline filter prior to fitting. Only had a 1mm syringe at hand and its a long large filter so that was a pain lol. I am carrying some spares around with me as I understand some could have defects staright from the factory.

I think I must have left a little leak somewhere but all this info is definately usefull. So for future reference if needed I can crack an injector loose then crank the engine till fuel is present so bleed the lines. Should I do this on injector no 1? Or would it make no difference.

I had been allowing more than 1 cycle for the glow plugs. Does this actuallly allow them to heat further? Or is it a case of when hearing the relay click after the initial 30 seconds or so its not going to get any hotter?

 

[panelbeater]

if starting then i would leave alone.
hard to get filter insides out.yes primer usefull but so is a pipe with a hand one on it to suck fuel into filter.
crack the injector feed pipe 17mm i think one at a time be careful though as high pressure fuel.do all wont hurt just a bit wet.
no the glows glow and thats it.
if relay and light go off the glows are still getting power till temp comes up.

 

[RJL Services]

Mann filters do a standard filter for the Terrano for use with bio fuel I have one somewhere will look later and get filter number for you :thumb2

 

[panelbeater]

on the vege site they have had a lot of trouble with the mann not now veg proof.

 

[panelbeater]

post copied from site,its a long un but helpfull.
MANN.

26 of them.

now the symptoms start about 80 miles and the revs get lower until just over 100 miles when it wont run over 2500 rpm.

i have changed the main filter to a crossland, and have done 100 miles so far.

will keep posting mileage, but if i reach a few hundred miles, it looks like mann filters are no longer veg compatible.

 

[bbbmmm55]

It seems any starting issues have been resolved. Takes it little longer to crank over in the morning but everything seems fine on that side.
I have started to experience another issue though. It only happens in the morning and after a few miles of driving or if i leave her on the drive to warm up (which my neighbours must hate ) seems to go away.
When cold she had been running lumpy as such, driving through the estates if i feather the throttle while cruising along at about 1700 - 1900 ie not accelerating past those revs. I get a stutter/missfire which causes the eml to come on and a loss of power. The eml clears once ive accelerated past that point so above 2k its good. Or if i drop the clutch and let it idle then light also clears. Now this only happens when cold. Later in the day or whilst warmed up i can feel the stutter under the same conditions but no eml light and no loss of power.
I have checked the maf which is bosch as per workshop downloads and it checks out fine.
Replaced fuel filter for new and stays the same.
Checked and tightend my fuel lines and bolts that hold the sender unit to the tank.
Got some new glow plugs on the way ready for winter and just so that i know they can be eliminated once they arrive. I suspected these as the issue only started since the temp has dropped over night, becofe that no issue.
Im also running my tank empty to eliminate the fuel which i guess is a long shot.
Tonight ill check if there are any fault codes stored but are there any other checks i should be doing guys?