fault codes

[spudd]

just hooked up an obd11 u480 scanner. comes up with fault 01. anyone got an idea what this code is cant find my code list or owt on google to clarify.

 

[rayf3262]

just hooked up an obd11 u480 scanner. comes up with fault 01. anyone got an idea what this code is cant find my code list or owt on google to clarify.

I very much doubt your diagnostic connector/ECU is OBD compliant, you will need a Nissan Consult tool to read the codes.

But you can read the fault codes via the MIL lamp;

See post number 14 here: http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11636&highlight=consult

 

[spudd]

I very much doubt your diagnostic connector/ECU is OBD compliant, you will need a Nissan Consult tool to read the codes.

But you can read the fault codes via the MIL lamp;

See post number 14 here: http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11636&highlight=consult

what pins are 1 - 8 ive tried first last pins top and bottom row nothing light just stays on

 

[jims-terrano]

Get yourself a paper clip and then browse to Quick Links on the top right of this web page. Then select downloads and look at the fault codes workshop sheet.

Jim

 

[clivvy]

i think fault code reading for his year (2002) is different to that in the downloads section, i think the connection is different number of pins....

 

[rayf3262]

what pins are 1 - 8 ive tried first last pins top and bottom row nothing light just stays on

The download document refers to the 14 pin connector, later trucks such as your 02 will be fitted with an apparently OBD type 16 pin connector. It is very unlikley to be OBD compliant, so stick with the paper clip option.
Switch ignition ON.
Bridge data link connector (DLC) terminals IGN and CHK (a paperclip will do the job). Fig. 2.
Wait 2 seconds.
Disconnect bridge wire from data link connector (DLC) Fig. 2.
Count ML flashes. Compare with trouble code table.
Long flashes indicate the ‘tens’ of the trouble code Fig. 3 [A].
Short flashes indicate the ‘units’ of the trouble code Fig. 3 [C].
A short pause separates each flash Fig. 3 .
A long pause separates each trouble code Fig. 3 [D].
For example: Trouble code 12 displayed Fig. 3.
Switch ignition OFF. Rectify faults as necessary.

These instructions should be correct although written for the 14 pin connector, on the 16 pin substitute CHK Pin 1 & IGN Pin 8. These will be on the bottom row.

 

[spudd]

came up with code 18 which clivvy tells me is fuel quantity adjuster/pos sensor. not sure what that is but is it the same as my obd11 reader said P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/Open .
confused please point in right direction ie whats the cure.

 

[rayf3262]

came up with code 18 which clivvy tells me is fuel quantity adjuster/pos sensor. not sure what that is but is it the same as my obd11 reader said P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/Open .
confused please point in right direction ie whats the cure.

Possibly the hydraulic fuel control, if there is not enough pressure within the IP the quantity adjuster hits the end stops without delivering enough fuel...or due to lack of internal pressure does not make it!
As has been discovered by others, the pressure relief/bypass can be "weak" causing a very high bypass rate back to the tank. This will mean the internal fuel pressure within the pump body is too low, so either unable to move the control sleeve or not able to provide the required amount of fuel.

As there is very little (electrically) to go wrong in the IP, it could possibly be the connections from the IP to the ECU.

The software in the ECU is not that clever... a duff CKP or No1 injector fault could give rise to the same fault code.

What are the symptoms?

 

[Timbo_1975]

Possibly the hydraulic fuel control, if there is not enough pressure within the IP the quantity adjuster hits the end stops without delivering enough fuel...or due to lack of internal pressure does not make it!
As has been discovered by others, the pressure relief/bypass can be "weak" causing a very high bypass rate back to the tank. This will mean the internal fuel pressure within the pump body is too low, so either unable to move the control sleeve or not able to provide the required amount of fuel.

As there is very little (electrically) to go wrong in the IP, it could possibly be the connections from the IP to the ECU.

The software in the ECU is not that clever... a duff CKP or No1 injector fault could give rise to the same fault code.

What are the symptoms?

Firstly clear the code, drive the truck and see if it returns. If not, dont worry. If it does, check for air in the fuel lines. As Rayf said, the fuel spool relies on correct internal pump pressure to work, although if case pressure was low, you'd probably be getting a timing advance fault code first as this is alot less tolerant to low pressure.

How does the truck drive???

 

[spudd]

Possibly the hydraulic fuel control, if there is not enough pressure within the IP the quantity adjuster hits the end stops without delivering enough fuel...or due to lack of internal pressure does not make it!
As has been discovered by others, the pressure relief/bypass can be "weak" causing a very high bypass rate back to the tank. This will mean the internal fuel pressure within the pump body is too low, so either unable to move the control sleeve or not able to provide the required amount of fuel.

As there is very little (electrically) to go wrong in the IP, it could possibly be the connections from the IP to the ECU.

The software in the ECU is not that clever... a duff CKP or No1 injector fault could give rise to the same fault code.

What are the symptoms?

lumpy at tickover. if i rev to about 2k let go it cuts out when back down to tick over.some times a bit lumpy when slowing down.also cut out 3 or 4 times as moving off switch off re start no prob. i have cleared code couple of times if i hit it hard it returns. does sound like fuel starvation.

 

[Timbo_1975]

Are you getting alot of blue smoke with the lumpy running especially when held at 2000rpm?? If so, I would be looking at a timing fault.

I get this with my truck in VERY cold weather ( like -10 and below) with the mil coming on. If I let her warm up for afew mins, switch off and restart it corrects itself. Thick diesel or the timing solonoid sticking due to the cold.

 

[spudd]

Are you getting alot of blue smoke with the lumpy running especially when held at 2000rpm?? If so, I would be looking at a timing fault.

I get this with my truck in VERY cold weather ( like -10 and below) with the mil coming on. If I let her warm up for afew mins, switch off and restart it corrects itself. Thick diesel or the timing solonoid sticking due to the cold.

not getting any smoke just lumpy.sometimes it accelerates like poo off a stick other time like my 96 td.will run rougher sometimes when had a run and up to temp.

 

[clivvy]

did you check the CKP sensor? This will affect timing as well as starting etc, and a faulty one will cause stalling. dont forget, the CKP is a magnet, and so with time, this magnet looses its effectivness, especially when the engine is warmed up. Might be worth giving it a clean to start with.

 

[Timbo_1975]

Agreed. Although a poor signal will result in a non-start, checking and cleaning would be good.

 

[spudd]

is it in some impossible place to reach on my motor.

 

[clivvy]

id need to check the manual for your year BUT, as its a CKP, its either at the front of the engine (look inbetween the belts for a small, round black thing witha wire leading up an d over the thermostat area to loom) or at the opposite side at the back of the engine...

Im fairly sure its at the front though.....if you do find it there, its easy to do yourself you just might scrape your knuckles a bit but its very easy to do.

 

[spudd]

found it right at the back of engine top of bell end. dunno how im gonna get me arm down there.