Engine mounts

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Lazy-Ferret

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
5,217
Any one got any experience of the engine mounts on the T2. Jiggly is a bit juddery on take up, which in my past experience on other vehicles is often caused by a broken mount, but they seem very hard to see on the T2.

Where do I look, is it a common issue?

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I reckon they're pretty weak. I've ripped at least three now. :augie
One under the oil filter(just in front) and the other side under inlet mani and behind pump,kind of area.
You can change them in situ just. Top tip, on refitting new ones, cut the bolt down to nut length. That gets you a good 10mm extra room ;)
 
I have just changed my drivers side mount. Found it easier to get at after sliding power steering fluid reservoir off the bracket and putting it to one side.Don't need to empty or remove pipe but make sure you keep it upright as I had some leakage out the lid.Also moved plastic water tank out of the way. I couldn't get the nut off which holds the mount to the bracket on side of engine so had to remove wheel and rubber skirt and removed the four bolts that hold the bracket to the engine. You need socket and couple of extensions for this. when loose jiggle it about to remove. Obviously engine needs jacking/blocking up to take the weight off it.
I did the passenger side some time ago and remember this one being easier access than the driver side.
 
I reckon they're pretty weak. I've ripped at least three now. :augie
One under the oil filter(just in front) and the other side under inlet mani and behind pump,kind of area.
You can change them in situ just. Top tip, on refitting new ones, cut the bolt down to nut length. That gets you a good 10mm extra room ;)

Cheers, are there only 2? I take it the one at the rear of the gearbox that it sits one, is the 3rd one.
 
I have just changed my drivers side mount. Found it easier to get at after sliding power steering fluid reservoir off the bracket and putting it to one side.Don't need to empty or remove pipe but make sure you keep it upright as I had some leakage out the lid.Also moved plastic water tank out of the way. I couldn't get the nut off which holds the mount to the bracket on side of engine so had to remove wheel and rubber skirt and removed the four bolts that hold the bracket to the engine. You need socket and couple of extensions for this. when loose jiggle it about to remove. Obviously engine needs jacking/blocking up to take the weight off it.
I did the passenger side some time ago and remember this one being easier access than the driver side.
:thumbs
 
That is the third one. i have removed this one in the past when i took the gear box out. It was easy to do. Just four bolts if I remember.
 
Next on my list as mine are squished to hell and engine moves rather alot now
 
Cheers, are there only 2? I take it the one at the rear of the gearbox that it sits one, is the 3rd one.

That is correct one of mine had lost its bond so box could be lifted off of the mount, caused shuddering on take off, one from a scrapper sorted that out, Rick
 
Never ever checked mine, I'll put that on the inspection list for next time I'm under the car :thumb2
 
Hi guys!
I'm slowly getting rid of all little noises and vibrations inside the cabin. i've almost fixed all rattling plastics, but it's always a 20 years old truck!

I'd like to change the 20 y/o engine mounts. they don't seem to be broken, but it's hard to tell just with a visual inspection: rubber could be cracked or detached fron iron plates.

do i just need to jack the engine to remove weight from the mounts?
is there any trick i need to know?!
 
Yes just jack it up, not too high remember the rad hoses etc, the mounts can be a bit fiddly to get to but not too bad, Rick
 
Yes just jack it up, not too high remember the rad hoses etc, the mounts can be a bit fiddly to get to but not too bad,

thanks Rick! just enough to remove weight from the mounts.
where can i place the jack under the engine to be sure I'll not damage anything lifting?

everything will be fiddly, as i don't have a car lift and i'll have to operate lied under the truck!
 
Block of wood under the sump is fine, and wedge it up from the front diff, Rick
 

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