Jimmy, hard to say mate, what else other than those two codes (which combined will almost certainly cause jerking) do you think is wrong? Do what I did, and do some checks. first, start at the battery. Check the clamps-shouldnt be any cracks. The the main positive wire that goes to the starter-if its crusty on the end and brittle, change it-expensive im afraid, cost me over £30, check the charge wire also. Now check the negative, and ground cables-mine LOOKED ok, untill i turned it over to find it had rubbed against the chassis, worn through and was corroded, so that caused issues-very cheap though for a new cable.
Now check down by the starter, get a bright torch, check that starter, how does it look? look for leaks around that area. now check your injectors, again, shine that torch in there, especially the back one, look for bad leaks. check those sensors by the intercooler, give them a clean-i found mine needed a clean.
Personally, i'd remove the intercooler if you are confident, clean it, clean the pipes and replace/re tighten. Check that air filter and filter box-look for missing clips that hold it in place-this lets water in. Check the fuel filter, release the drain tap, see if it gurgles or lets diesel out....
after that its the usual check of belts etc.
You can search the threads for my string of issues mate, i had major problems after about a month or two of owners ship, then it was off the road for a VERY long time whilst I fixed it. I only got it fixed this year and very recently, my problems were:
bad starting
non starting
uneven running/idle
engine check light on
4 major codes-CKP, Fuel Quantity (went away), MAF and No1 injector-so fitted new CKP fixed the majority of running issues I had, bought second hand MAF and soaked it in cleaner over night, bought new No1 injector (huge difference that made so well worth it) and the fuel quantity code went away after i fitted the new injector-hence my worry that yours may be on its way so you may as well prepare for it.
rusty outer sills
hole inside engine bay-didnt need welding, but needed fixing for MOT
squeeky spare wheel
needed new fuel filter (badly)
needed new air filter (huge difference with a K&N fitted)
new positive cable, new clamps, new earth-had to sort new holes for earth as existing screws had rusted.
and that my friend, was it. These problems were spread out over about 8 or 9 months, if not longer, simply becasue I couldnt afford to paya garage to fix it. I had extra time off the road due to a garage seriously trying to rip me off over the MOT, again theres a thread on this.
The car really felt fixed after I fitted the new CKP, everything ran much smoother. after that I did the intercooler and fuel filter and i think the injector, or maybe that was before. Now, I have NO codes showing, and its running almost like new, ceertainly compared to how it was when I bought it, which i thought was good at the time. I didnt have any other issues, breaks all good, hand break needs adjustment, generally they seem very solid underneath so my thoughts for you are get the CKP, I know its expensive, but unless youve got some spare cash, going to be cheap er to fix the truck that buy, say, a Landy or other alternative. I just done think you can buy better, for the money.
When I first read your post, I could see you were having the very same problems I started with, and at the time didnt think much of it, trust me, they get worse at leats it did for me, my lesson was simply buy the CKP, I wish I had done it sooner.
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