Daylight LED?

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zephyr

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2016
Messages
154
Hey all - been a while.... it has been cold days so I didn't do much on my Terrano (including those ticking sound - still haven't sorted, relay is disconnected - then I've got ABS issue probably usual error often seen in this forum - but as I haven't got necessary equipment to do this, I have to ask the garage to do it, but I haven't been able to find a reliable garage for Terrano yet!), but it's getting warmer and I started thinking about more about toy than repair:lol Yes, I know I need to sort those things out, this is other things that I can do for now.

Right, so my question is, is there anyone who fitted the daylight LED? I bought this (yeah, I know it is cheapish!) and am going to fit on somewhere front, but thought ask you guys to see if there's anyone who had already done it. If you have, then would you please be able to share pic so that I can see how it would look like? Cheers!

daylight LED.jpg
 
Hi Toshi, nice to see you back on here:thumbs

Not fitted day light running lights but it can't be that difficult. Is there any wiring in the kit or relays?

Also I'm not sure if there are any regulations regarding them too. Not sure if I've heard something about indicators and turning the indicating side off, certainly seen some cars that seem to work like that.

I'm guessing easiest and most obvious solution is a simple feed from an ignition live.
 
D.T.R.L.

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28191

I fitted DTRL's to my Beamer and the Jeep. My cheap set on the Jeep packed up after a few months due to water ingress.

Likewise the old relay failed on the Jeep when I put the better units on. The above link should give you some pointers for wiring them up.

Essentially they should dim when you have main lights on or go out.
 
if i want to be seen in the day i put my 180w led light bare on the roof on lol
 
My Mrs motor has had abs probs, I do not drive it often so not had much chance to test it, but did over the W/E and discovered it came a low speed and pulled to he right, so assumed the front left was the culprit, wire looks good and as I had it on the lift a while ago and checked all the sensor resistances while pulling the wires about and could find nothing, decided to pull the hub and check for sensor damage, as she did have a wheel bearing fail a year or so ago, anyway all looked good except the reluctor ring looked a bit dirty, some spaces were nearly full of debris, so set to and cleaned them all out, reassembled and took it for a spin, job sorted, Rick
 
Hi Toshi, nice to see you back on here:thumbs

Not fitted day light running lights but it can't be that difficult. Is there any wiring in the kit or relays?

Also I'm not sure if there are any regulations regarding them too. Not sure if I've heard something about indicators and turning the indicating side off, certainly seen some cars that seem to work like that.

I'm guessing easiest and most obvious solution is a simple feed from an ignition live.

Hi Jim,

These LED lights come without anything. So I bought this "KKmoon Automatic Controller for LED Lights DRL Daytime Running Light Auto Switch Control On/Off 12 V" separately. This must be a Chinese make, it came without any manual. But Amazon's page says most of the spec.

One thing from their explanation, "The white wire is to connect to the headlights (or the lights of the panel), when the headlights or dashboard lights are turned on, the brightness of the LED lights to be reduced by half." I wasn't sure where I should put this white wire to?:confused:

Thought maybe I just get a feed from fusebox (ignition) and the only thing that I would need to find out is where to put the wire through from fuse box to the engine compartment?
 
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http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28191

I fitted DTRL's to my Beamer and the Jeep. My cheap set on the Jeep packed up after a few months due to water ingress.

Likewise the old relay failed on the Jeep when I put the better units on. The above link should give you some pointers for wiring them up.

Essentially they should dim when you have main lights on or go out.

Ditto with Zippy - Links to pics are not working and if they are shown, might be able to give me some idea?

But yeah, these are cheapish make and might not last long under rain/dust, wind and bits to hit them when the car drives....
 
My Mrs motor has had abs probs, I do not drive it often so not had much chance to test it, but did over the W/E and discovered it came a low speed and pulled to he right, so assumed the front left was the culprit, wire looks good and as I had it on the lift a while ago and checked all the sensor resistances while pulling the wires about and could find nothing, decided to pull the hub and check for sensor damage, as she did have a wheel bearing fail a year or so ago, anyway all looked good except the reluctor ring looked a bit dirty, some spaces were nearly full of debris, so set to and cleaned them all out, reassembled and took it for a spin, job sorted, Rick

Hi Rick, I found my problem is quite similar to this "Abs light and hand brake light and paddal kickback". As far as I'm aware, this can happen when the auto gear is in 2nd or 3rd, not much when it's in D, but I don't know why. Sometimes it kicks me back, sometimes ABS light turns on with the alarm or without alarm. Restart the engine let this off, but I know this has to be rectified.

One day I brought Terrano to the garage for re-gas and they told me they would charge £40 for just check ECU to see the error message....doh!:doh
 






The round ones on the Jeep failed through water ingress. The rectangular ones are fine still. No issues with the BMW ones.
 
D.T.R.L. wiring options.

On the BMW as there was an easy to access ignition feed under the bonnet I wired the DTRL relay using this method. Had to connect a wire from the dipped lights so that the DTRL went off when dip or main beam activated. I used a good quality relay for this that was designed for after market DTRL fitment.
This is the type of relay.https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/automatic-daytime-running-lights-wiring-kit

On the Jeep I could not find a suitable ignition feed under the bonnet so used a voltage sensitive relay instead and took a feed straight from the battery with a line fuse. This type of relay also takes a feed from the sidelights to dim them when your lights are on. With the voltage sensitive relay the DTRL's stay on for about 20 seconds after you turn the engine off.

This is the second type.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Daytime-R...543896?hash=item25d19d6818:g:-0AAAOSwn-tZHTsw
To enable this relay to handle the higher wattage I just added an extra relay as per my previous post. For low wattage this second type is fine.
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
On the BMW as there was an easy to access ignition feed under the bonnet I wired the DTRL relay using this method. Had to connect a wire from the dipped lights so that the DTRL went off when dip or main beam activated. I used a good quality relay for this that was designed for after market DTRL fitment.
This is the type of relay.https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/automatic-daytime-running-lights-wiring-kit

On the Jeep I could not find a suitable ignition feed under the bonnet so used a voltage sensitive relay instead and took a feed straight from the battery with a line fuse. This type of relay also takes a feed from the sidelights to dim them when your lights are on. With the voltage sensitive relay the DTRL's stay on for about 20 seconds after you turn the engine off.

This is the second type.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Daytime-R...543896?hash=item25d19d6818:g:-0AAAOSwn-tZHTsw
To enable this relay to handle the higher wattage I just added an extra relay as per my previous post. For low wattage this second type is fine.

Looks like your second one is same as mine - so to take a feed for headlight/dashboard, should I get a feed from actual headlight or could I get it from the fusebox in the engine compartment (e.g. ignition sw)? Sorry for a daft question!
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Looks like your second one is same as mine - so to take a feed for headlight/dashboard, should I get a feed from actual headlight or could I get it from the fusebox in the engine compartment (e.g. ignition sw)? Sorry for a daft question!

If you scroll right down the second e-bay link it shows the wiring connections in full!
 
If you scroll right down the second e-bay link it shows the wiring connections in full!

Yes, but still not sure exactly where I can get the feed from what is says "HeadlightDashboard"... could it be from within the engine compartment or should I wire through from driver's side to the engine compartment?:confused:

I was wondering if I should just insert the wire into the socket for the side light, but it can be a bit dodgy, can't it?
 
I used the dipped beam wiring near the headlamp units.

Yes, but still not sure exactly where I can get the feed from what is says "HeadlightDashboard"... could it be from within the engine compartment or should I wire through from driver's side to the engine compartment?:confused:

I was wondering if I should just insert the wire into the socket for the side light, but it can be a bit dodgy, can't it?

I am assuming that you know the wires for the power feed, the lights and the earth so you are talking about the white cable marked Headlight / Dashboard.

As my relay is mounted on both vehicles on the inner wing panel near the headlights I decided to find the headlamp wiring and connected the white cable to the wire that powers the dip beam. As the relay power is very small you can either use a Scotch Lock or if you prefer cut through the wire and use a connector to join in the white cable. On my BMW I used a Scotch Lock and then taped up with decent self sealing insulating tape. On the Jeep there was plenty of space so I used a crimped male/female connector with two cables on the male side and the female on the dipped beam feed. Again I tapped up the whole connector with the self sealing insulating tape.
 
White Junction Box & extra relay with fuse.



The white box contains the wiring connector strips for the lamps and the voltage sensitive relay.

The external relay stuck on top is the fused relay to take the load of the higher powered DTRL's I used. They are I think a nominal 18W each. The voltage sensitive relay just powers the external relay actuation so no danger of it burning out as did the previous relay. I could not find a voltage sensitive relay that could handle the combined DTRLs power of 36W with any margin of safety. The external relay is rated 30 amps but I have used a lower 5 amp fuse as the lights are only 3 amps.
 
The White Box actually contains 2 relays as below.

Well the DTRL upgrade was fine for a few weeks then lights remained all the time. Investigation revealed burnt out relay as 2x18 watts was too much!

Due to no easy access to live feed from the ignition under the bonnet have now done a complete overkill solution.

1) Had a spare voltage activation relay as per the burnt out unit that dims the LED's when main light are on.

2) Good old fashioned 4 pin 30 amp relay with built in fuse holder.

3) Obtained an LED relay designed to work off the ignition that is rated for 50 watts.

Wired up relay (3) but instead of feed from ignition connected this to relay (2) switched feed contacts 87 & 30. Then used relay (1) to supply the switch contact 85 & 86.

So current though relay 1 is now very low as it just activates relay 2. Relay 1 & 3 housed in small plastic box with connector strip, relay 2 attached to outside of said box with double sided tape. All hidden in small gap near spout for screen washer top up. Essential line fuse fitted to power from battery via the relay box next to the battery. All wires in flexible trunking for safety.
 

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