Cheapest place to buy Waxoyl ?

[rustic]

All this recent talk about waxoyl, I need some more,
Where is the cheapest place to buy it, I have seen it on ebay for between £20 and £30 for 5 litres, plus postage, but some sites allow free pick up.

My local motor factors £28-£29, I prefer the clear, as it goes black anyway.
I now use the waxoyl underseal, in the vulnerable high wash areas, that comes in 1 litre tins, plenty of that left.

I've never kept a car this long,(15 1/2 years) I waxoyled it from day one and now I am getting the reward. I think overtime 15 litres have been applied.
Time for another coat. Undoing bolts has never been easier, a quick wipe with white spirit and you are down to the original paint, no rust.
I did brake lines, fuel liines, seat belt points, all protruding bolts, all but the exhaust, engine and gearbox.
Best regards,
Rustic

 

[Timbo_1975]

Personnally I wouldnt waste my money on waxoyl- far too watery and takes weeks to set.

Dinitrol is the stuff you want. 4941 and 3125.

 

[Stuarty]

I bought some black stonechip and a shutz gun for the wheel arches havent got round to doing it yet but iirc it was around a tenner for a litre and 15 quid for the gun that was from my local motor factors.

 

[clivvy]

be interesting to hear which is the best??

 

[rustic]

be interesting to hear which is the best??

If Harry Hill was here he would say "There's only one way to find out" .....fight....


I can speak for waxoyl, having used it for over 30 years..


Easy to apply, brush/ spray, but best applied after minor disassembly, eg remove trim, headlights, to get behind etc.

Requires regular top up especially in high wash areas, wheel arches, front wishbones.
Runs like ..cold soup.. when the panel gets hot, eg under the bonnet, runs out. Don't apply it too thickly.

Easy maintenence, wipe down with white spirit, back down to the original surface, eg brake pipes come apart easily when dismantled.

Washes out of hair clothes when covered, and you will be.
Brushes, spills overspray easily to clean / remove even years on.

I took off the plastic trim, inner plastic covers, on the front wheel arches/wings and after nearly 16 years, there is no signs of any rust, so it does work.

Waxoyl does spread and if you paint exposed threads, they are protected and come apart easily.

Keep some in a jam jar ready for immediate use and get under the vehicle, and top up when required.

 

[MontysMaverick]

Waxoyl as Rustic has already said is very versatile and is the most commonly used- probably to be PC.

Ive tried 3 other products, schutz, morris,s ankor wax, and silkolene red

My preferred method is to spray via a schutz gun underneath and apply by brush around the engine bay etc, then I have a cavity attachment for the schutz gun to do the doors and tailgate,

I have had success with cleaning all the crap off with a industrial pressure washer underneath, let it go bone dry then schutz the lot, even the exhaust, which will take abt 12x1lt cans, then after 24 hrs I went over the schutz with neat waxoyl (black) and it has been really good so far,

Looks like new when you pressure wash the crap off after a day out and had no issues with taking anything apart, I just re-do as Rustic says with a jam jar full of waxoyl after rebuilding

I use Ankor Wax for the cavities and wang up the pressure on the compressor to get a thin mist effect which seems to give the effect that after spraying it dont run. I would prefer to use Silkolene Red but my supplier told me theyed discontinued it due to the raw materials cost, it was the business as it never really sets and it like greasy slimy red oil based cream.

As for which is the best, well for me its a combination of 3 products that seem to suit what I use them for, My mate did try a german product that was £76 plus vat for 2 litres on his Jag xk just for the door cavities so I think its personnel choice and how deep your pockets are, for me its all about keeping the car in a fairly decent condition as I tend to do mine at least 4 times a year it has been commented on at the test centre as being clean underneath so I take that as a compliment, I normally use approx 48 lts of schutz and 60/70 litres of waxoyl, plus 15/20 litres of ankor wax per annum, this may seem a little ott but the tin worm will be back as soon as I stop so I think its a small price to pay to keep the Mav on the road.

Hope this helps

Lyndon

 

[Deleted account DD]

Since my first motor in 1982 waxoyl rules :thumb2

Cheap easy versatile , with rustic on that , and since about five years ago so ago when I got all sophisticated, dead easy to apply with a spray gun :thumbs

dont get mixed up with products that effectively a type of painted finish, waxoyl whatever it says on the tin is best applied over a painted or undersealed underside. I agree with monty for a good allround job, multiple products

 

[MontysMaverick]

Since my first motor in 1982 waxoyl rules :thumb2

Cheap easy versatile , with rustic on that , and since about five years ago so ago when I got all sophisticated, dead easy to apply with a spray gun :thumbs

dont get mixed up with products that effectively a type of painted finish, waxoyl whatever it says on the tin is best applied over a painted or undersealed underside. I agree with monty for a good allround job, multiple products

Cheers Dave it aint that often I get something right :thumbs :thumbs :thumbs :thumbs :thumbs :thumbs