Changing front disks - Terrano/Mav

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LouLou

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Just about to tackle the task of swapping out the front disks on LouLou's '97 Mav starting Friday PM if the weather is OK.

Managed to get access to the truck last weekend and found the disk thickness was 19.5mm. Minimum by the book is 24mm!!! :eek:

No looking at the R20 manual it appears that it is a process of removing the auto FWH unit; remove a few circlips from the end of the drive shaft; unbolt and remove the hub/bearing carrier; swing caliper out of the way then Roberts your mothers brother..........or is there more to it than that?

Any pitfalls I should look for?

Cheers, Paul :wink:
 
I did the disc's on my 2nd generation Maverick at the weekend and it sounds like i had an easier job than you - didn't feel like it at the time tho!

Wheels off, 2 bolts out of the back of the caliper, swing the caliper out of the way and tie in place. Then remove 2 more bolts holding the caliper carrier bracket then get big lump hammer and hit the disc lots till it comes loose...

Replacement is the reverse but with less hitting with hammer!
 
Hi, replacing the discs is quite a job, I fitted Rossini discs, you have to remove the free wheel hub, then the bearings lock nut, drive shaft snap ring, tilt up the caliper then un bolt the 6 bolts on the disc. The bearings stay in the hub. It is quite a job to re-adjust the bearings, with a special locking nut using a posidrive screwdriver for the locking screw. The electronic manual on CD explains how. It took me about 2.5 hours per side, but I adjusted the preload on the bearings with a small spring balance as per manual. Experienced guys can probably do it by feel, and complete the job in half the time I guess.
No special tools required, but re-fitting the drive shaft and re fitting the snap ring on the end is a knack. You will have the opportunity to re-grease the bearings. You will also need to replace the brake pads.
I torqued up the 6 free hub allen bolts to the correct torque as the garage sheared one of the heads off during a service....
Good luck, best regards, Rustic
 
Cheers gents.

I used to replace/remove the hub assemblies on my old Land Rover on a regular basis so I guessed the bearing load will be similar to them. Used to always do them by feel anyway ;)

Andy that disk setup on your 'MK2' sounds just like my Jeep Cherokee. Much easier and that is another job I have to do this weekend - change those disks too :wink:

Paul
 
Hi Paul

It's not too bad a job, the discs on mine really didn't want to move, they were rusted solid to the hub but like i said, judicious application of a big hammer soon sorted that!
 
Cheers Andy.

Well I have just removed the FWH from the n/s hub which was the worst bit so far. Required WD40 over night and a bit of heat to get those 8mm Allen bolts free :x

Now to the bearing assembly :p

Paul
 
One side done after 4 hours!

Next problem after the seized FWH screws was the brake calipers were also seized on the lower guide pin (same on both sides I now find out). No way would the calipers open up enough to fit the new pads and go over the new disk.

After a lot of fiddling/WD40/cursing and wiggling the pins came out. After some wet'n'dry and some bearing grease they are as good as new.

So tomorrow I will finish the o/s assembly. Caliper is already off and ready to refit. Just need to get the hub apart. Already soaked in WD40 and had the gas torch on the heads ;)

As mentioned by others. This is a PITA job :wink:
 

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