changing centre silencer, SWB Maverick

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clivvy

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hey chaps,

I need to change my centre silencer on the Mav tomorrow. As its pretty much 0 degree where I live, should I heat up the exhaust bolts first, or will the temp not really make a difference?? They dont look too bad in terms of rust/age, but i wondered if the very cold temp will affect how easy it is to undo them?

:bow
 
hey chaps,

I need to change my centre silencer on the Mav tomorrow. As its pretty much 0 degree where I live, should I heat up the exhaust bolts first, or will the temp not really make a difference?? They dont look too bad in terms of rust/age, but i wondered if the very cold temp will affect how easy it is to undo them?

:bow

I take cars to bits all the time ive never come across any need to use heat you just need good quality tools also i use hexagonal sockets to stop taking corners off bolts.Give them a spray with wd40 you will be fine
 
I take cars to bits all the time ive never come across any need to use heat you just need good quality tools also i use hexagonal sockets to stop taking corners off bolts.Give them a spray with wd40 you will be fine

cheers pal, i have some decent tools so ill spray it up first thing in the morning then have a go when ive warmed up:thumbs
 
A couple of days ago, I changed the rear section on mine as it had snapped off from the flange that joins it to the middle bit... I just had to undo 3 things.... I started to undo the rubber mount, and the captive threaded bolt in the mount sheared off. Luckily the other end undid easily, so just had to go and get a new mount to sort that problem out.

I then tried to undo the two flange bolts... which are conveniently right up above the axle, at a funny angle, and tight as hell. Also they are both about 12mm longer than they need to be and the threads were rusty... I decided to liberally spray WD 40 over them, and leave it till the next day...

The next day, it still took me and hour and a half to get the 2 flange bolts out!!! they were gits, and all I could do was turn the ratchet 2 clicks at a time... I even undid them a couple of turns, covered them with WD 40 and re-did them up, hoping to trap some oil in the threads.. no Luck...

What I do not understand is, so many bolts on that car shear off as soon as you breath near them with a socket, but these 2, oh no.. they were going to hold out all the way, 12 mm of rusty thread, 2 clicks at a time.

To make things worse. the spanner kept coming off the top of the bolt, and either hitting me in the head, or allowing the socket to trap my fingers between it and various bits of the car.


Glad I only had to do the 2.. not 4 like you :bow
 
A couple of days ago, I changed the rear section on mine as it had snapped off from the flange that joins it to the middle bit... I just had to undo 3 things.... I started to undo the rubber mount, and the captive threaded bolt in the mount sheared off. Luckily the other end undid easily, so just had to go and get a new mount to sort that problem out.

I then tried to undo the two flange bolts... which are conveniently right up above the axle, at a funny angle, and tight as hell. Also they are both about 12mm longer than they need to be and the threads were rusty... I decided to liberally spray WD 40 over them, and leave it till the next day...

The next day, it still took me and hour and a half to get the 2 flange bolts out!!! they were gits, and all I could do was turn the ratchet 2 clicks at a time... I even undid them a couple of turns, covered them with WD 40 and re-did them up, hoping to trap some oil in the threads.. no Luck...

What I do not understand is, so many bolts on that car shear off as soon as you breath near them with a socket, but these 2, oh no.. they were going to hold out all the way, 12 mm of rusty thread, 2 clicks at a time.

To make things worse. the spanner kept coming off the top of the bolt, and either hitting me in the head, or allowing the socket to trap my fingers between it and various bits of the car.


Glad I only had to do the 2.. not 4 like you :bow
Wish I'd been there to see it, would have given you a score out of 10 for entertainment factor! :jesterbg
 
get mr grinder out if they do not undo
 
get mr grinder out if they do not undo

ah yes, but, i dont think i can get my grinder into the rear two bolts connecting the back box. i recall trying this last time and had to give up. I have an impact wrench now so....
 
Wish I'd been there to see it, would have given you a score out of 10 for entertainment factor! :jesterbg

:lol:lol Entertainment was right up there... artistic achievement left a lot to be desired, and interpretation... well you didn't need it as I was saying it in very plain English...:lol

ah yes, but, i dont think i can get my grinder into the rear two bolts connecting the back box. i recall trying this last time and had to give up. I have an impact wrench now so....

I could not see any way to get an angle grinder up to it, especially the higher bolt.

I was seriously considering going out to get an electric impact wrench, but no funds at the moment... Please let me know how you get on with it, and if it works, what make is yours, as I think I might be adding one of those to my wish list, if I intend keeping this car and continuing to work on it...
 
hey chaps,

I need to change my centre silencer on the Mav tomorrow. As its pretty much 0 degree where I live, should I heat up the exhaust bolts first, or will the temp not really make a difference?? They dont look too bad in terms of rust/age, but i wondered if the very cold temp will affect how easy it is to undo them?

:bow

just take it off and replace with a ss 2" straight through zorst
 
If you tried all the previous suggestions with no success, then if all else fails, then grind away from the scrap side if need be.

What is more likely is that the bolts will shear, if you have a decent socket set.

Either way, buy some new bolts.

Or use a hack saw between the flanges, but don't go in too far. LAST RESORT...

At least you won't need to jack up the vehicle, plenty of clearance to change the middle or rear sections.

Best regards,

Rustic
 
If you tried all the previous suggestions with no success, then if all else fails, then grind away from the scrap side if need be.

What is more likely is that the bolts will shear, if you have a decent socket set.

Either way, buy some new bolts.

Or use a hack saw between the flanges, but don't go in too far. LAST RESORT...

At least you won't need to jack up the vehicle, plenty of clearance to change the middle or rear sections.

Best regards,

Rustic

cheers Rustic, im just hoping its not too below zero tomorrow, as in the forcast, but i think i might try my impact wrench, because even if that sheers a rusted bolt, ill still get the exhaust off...!
 
nut splitters are handy when u no the bolt will shear:thumbs
 
cheers Rustic, im just hoping its not too below zero tomorrow, as in the forcast, but i think i might try my impact wrench, because even if that sheers a rusted bolt, ill still get the exhaust off...!

Don't get into the habit of using impact wrenches on exhausts in general, as if you used one near a catalyst, you could rattle it to pieces, rendering it scrap.
No problem on the td though:thumbs

As Geoffdown suggests a nut splitter is good, but some exhausts have recessed flanges so getting one in could be impossible.

When I fitted a recessed flange exhaust, I placed a spacer ( bigger nut) over the thread before putting the correct nut on, then you can see the nut and grind it off next time around, but this needs forward planning:doh.

Also consider stainless nuts and bolts ready for next time, and use copper slip on the threads.

Hope this helps..
Best regards,

Rustic
 

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