Castor v camber !

[makeitfit]

A few months back I rebuilt virtually the hole front end of my truck, namely comp. bushes and welded plates to the chassis.New top and bottom ball joints,new track rod ends and tweeked the wheel bearings. The top arm bushes were showing no signs of wear and didnt "seem" to move. Susequently passed MOT all ok up front:thumbs

I think I've now got some sort of castor problem but dont know how to measure it or check it?:augie
Symptoms are that the steering doesnt want to self return to straight

Camber seems out a tad on one side too, but the local garages are poo in this department:doh

So should I be shortening the comp strut somehow to correct things?

Also do these fancy calmini top arms correct for camber/castor in a 2" lifted truck?

 

[extreme-4x4]

A few months back I rebuilt virtually the hole front end of my truck, namely comp. bushes and welded plates to the chassis.New top and bottom ball joints,new track rod ends and tweeked the wheel bearings. The top arm bushes were showing no signs of wear and didnt "seem" to move. Susequently passed MOT all ok up front:thumbs

I think I've now got some sort of castor problem but dont know how to measure it or check it?:augie
Symptoms are that the steering doesnt want to self return to straight

Camber seems out a tad on one side too, but the local garages are poo in this department:doh

So should I be shortening the comp strut somehow to correct things?

Also do these fancy calmini top arms correct for camber/castor in a 2" lifted truck?

all i can say is its a right pain in the arse to set up. but im guessing if its not returning but everything else looks right. its possibly your new bush or idler bracket. or the steering relay rod . did you check that ?

give the tracking a go with a string line to check they are pointing the same way ,

is there any play between front passenger side and front drivers side wheels . . any play will give you poor return on the steering .

its not a job you can do if you need the truck next day. took me 3 days solid to set my front end up. and only lasted one outing. they just bend way too easy. you gotta reduce the ball joints and connections to stand any chance of it lasting. ...

my thought is still 2 steering boxes . reducing joints and dampening the blow.... but still untested

 

[makeitfit]

Steering relay rod is fine n dandy and replaced the track rod ends too. The rod was checked and good:thumbs
The steering bush is a snug fit but nothing against the power in the steering or the proper centering effect of the geometry.
I had the tracking set in the garage and it's spot on(well as near as they could get it because "those wheels are too big mate" ).
I've suffered no steering damage and really pleased with the steering braket :thumbs
So I suspect maybe the top arm bushes and or the comp. bush alignment:augie
How do I check it though

 

[extreme-4x4]

toolbox is your man for that . but i remember doing mine it was a right shit. think its all in the manual how to set the front end up . but obviously thet would be to standard . so there will be lots of trial and error.
have you lifted the front end up and checked for play between the wheels . your bound to have loads . thats what it is i suspect

 

[makeitfit]

Yep I've lifted the front and the only play is the unavoidable movement in the relay rod double ended ball ache design thing
It just does twist , but that should only explain "slop" in steering action:augie
I'll have to resort to RTFM at this rate :doh
TOOL BOX calling TOOL BOX, are you out there?
Help us oh mighty one :bow

 

[Terranosaurus]

You can check your camber and caster using a straight edge (short enough to fit across rim not on tyres), a small spirit level (shorter than straightedge, longer the better though), ruler, a bit of car/hardboard/plywood etc, protractor and a level floor.


To measure camber angle.

Park truck on level floor.

Put straightedge across wheel rim (top o bottom)

Put spirit level on straightedge and them move one end away till spirit level is vertical.

Measure gap from end of level to straightedge (top if -ve, bottom if +ve camber) = Y

Measure length of spirit level = Z

use sine(X) = Y/Z

X= camber angle



To measure Castor angle.

This is a bit trickier and requires you to turn the sterring wheel whilst the car is stationary, garages have special graduated turntable to do this but it is possible to improvise.

You need a few bits of plastic sheet, cut up and flattened out 2l coke bottle will do but will tend to roll back up - or something similar. You're lloking to reduce the friction between tyre and floor to as near possible zero so the suspension won't move any more than necessary when you turn the wheel. Put plastic under each front tyre.

Make a trapezium in hardboard etc thats angled side will reach across your rims like the straight edge did. It needs to be truncated at 20 degrees (use protractor). Attach it in the middle of something long and straight, longer the better.

Turn steering so that it is 20 degrees in one direction, use your trapezium guage to tell the angle - your straightedge will be parrallel to the car when at 20 degrees.

Repeat above measurement for camber on each side.

Turn steering so that it is 20 degrees in other direction

Repeat above measurement for camber on each side.


The difference between the two dynamic castor readings at +20 and -20 degress for each wheel is the caster for that wheel.

 

[zippy656]

You can check your camber and caster using a straight edge (short enough to fit across rim not on tyres), a small spirit level (shorter than straightedge, longer the better though), ruler, a bit of car/hardboard/plywood etc, protractor and a level floor.


To measure camber angle.

Park truck on level floor.

Put straightedge across wheel rim (top o bottom)

Put spirit level on straightedge and them move one end away till spirit level is vertical.

Measure gap from end of level to straightedge (top if -ve, bottom if +ve camber) = Y

Measure length of spirit level = Z

use sine(X) = Y/Z

X= camber angle

what about the length of your spirit lever. longer will give a bigger VE.. or have i missed some thing?

 

[Terranosaurus]

what about the length of your spirit lever. longer will give a bigger VE.. or have i missed some thing?

Thats taken care of in the equation

Sine(X) = Y/Z


and people used to ask why did trig in maths at school.

 

[sidsid06]

Thats taken care of in the equation

Sine(X) = Y/Z


and people used to ask why did trig in maths at school.

glad you done the maths:clap im completley lost dont think be trying any of that on my truck with my small brain!!!!!!!!

 

[extreme-4x4]

You can check your camber and caster using a straight edge (short enough to fit across rim not on tyres), a small spirit level (shorter than straightedge, longer the better though), ruler, a bit of car/hardboard/plywood etc, protractor and a level floor.


To measure camber angle.

Park truck on level floor.

Put straightedge across wheel rim (top o bottom)

Put spirit level on straightedge and them move one end away till spirit level is vertical.

Measure gap from end of level to straightedge (top if -ve, bottom if +ve camber) = Y

Measure length of spirit level = Z

use sine(X) = Y/Z

X= camber angle



To measure Castor angle.

This is a bit trickier and requires you to turn the sterring wheel whilst the car is stationary, garages have special graduated turntable to do this but it is possible to improvise.

You need a few bits of plastic sheet, cut up and flattened out 2l coke bottle will do but will tend to roll back up - or something similar. You're lloking to reduce the friction between tyre and floor to as near possible zero so the suspension won't move any more than necessary when you turn the wheel. Put plastic under each front tyre.

Make a trapezium in hardboard etc thats angled side will reach across your rims like the straight edge did. It needs to be truncated at 20 degrees (use protractor). Attach it in the middle of something long and straight, longer the better.

Turn steering so that it is 20 degrees in one direction, use your trapezium guage to tell the angle - your straightedge will be parrallel to the car when at 20 degrees.

Repeat above measurement for camber on each side.

Turn steering so that it is 20 degrees in other direction

Repeat above measurement for camber on each side.


The difference between the two dynamic castor readings at +20 and -20 degress for each wheel is the caster for that wheel.

i used 2 bits of plastic sheet per wheel with grease between them