Camber adjustment

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Deleted Member S

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Jun 3, 2007
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After I reset the torsion bars I've notice the odd bit of tyre squeal on a few corners (driving slowish) from the front tyres, after looking at the front of the T2 I have noticed that it's now got a slight positive camber \---/ The prob is i'm going to be fitting the new springs off HB in the next few days & i'm sure the positive camber will get worse as the front end is lifted :roll:
Is there a way of making something up to check the camber without having to do to a garage & pay the earth :?: also where can I get the shims from as I don't know what sizes i'm going to need :roll:
Link to the mannual :smile:

http://bebrs.pie-dabas.net/Webs/Terrano/R20/fa.pdf
 
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Paul332 said:
I use a Magnetic Camber/Castor Gauge when I doing this sort of thing, don't cost alot and always there when I need it, saved me loads with the coilovers, having to reset the camber everytime I higher or lower the mr2.
Heres the same one I have..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=160287051499&Category=30922&_trksid=p3907.m29
HB May be able to get you one cheaper.

Paul

Difficult t beat ebay on Sealey stuff, though they do crop up cheaper than tha sometime son there.
 
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thanks very much for the link Paul :p Now comes the fun bit adjusting it :roll: am I right in thinking i'll have to fit thiner shims or could I just remove on of the shims to help pull it back into line :?
 
Sweety said:
thanks very much for the link Paul :p Now comes the fun bit adjusting it :roll: am I right in thinking i'll have to fit thiner shims or could I just remove on of the shims to help pull it back into line :?
Till you find out how far they are out it's hard to say, but saying that I wouldn't have thought they would be that far out, do they look alot out?

Paul.
 
They look slightly out at the min but after I wind up the torsion bars I think they will become very possitive :(
 
Sweety said:
They look slightly out at the min but after I wind up the torsion bars I think they will become very possitive :(
Then the only way I can think of is to ether get the shims from Nissan/ford (sorry for swearing) or a trip to a scrap yard to buy some metal plate the right thickness and made them up ( alot cheaper)
 
You can use hacksaw blades as shims. Just grind the teeth off and cut into small pieces.
 
hummingbird said:
You can use hacksaw blades as shims. Just grind the teeth off and cut into small pieces.

What about washers?
 
Paul332 said:
hummingbird said:
You can use hacksaw blades as shims. Just grind the teeth off and cut into small pieces.

What about washers?

If hardedned steel yes - ordinary one aren't though, hacksaw blades are quite an easy one to use and are fairly thick to give you sensitive djustment. There is a table in the manual that helps you calculate you many shims to use.
 
hummingbird said:
If hardedned steel yes - ordinary one aren't though, hacksaw blades are quite an easy one to use and are fairly thick to give you sensitive djustment. There is a table in the manual that helps you calculate you many shims to use.

I looked at that table but couldn't work it out :oops: :oops: :cry: I did notice it mentions only to use 2 shims :roll:
 
camber adjustment

I looked at that table but couldn't work it out
you and me both mate.gonna try and get my springs fitted this week and i was wondering about the camber adjustment.i lifted the front end up on the jack 1 3/4 " to see if it threw the camber out much but without weight on the wheels was hard to tell.as far as i know my camber is ok so what i was going to do was use a large welders square against the front wheel and measure the angle that way then once all the lift is done re measure and see if there is any difference.a bit crude but if it works then its a bonus.
 
Sweety,
I adjusted my old T2 with a large square, measuring the top and bottom of the wheel rim to the square. You will need to be on very level ground to do it this way though.
You should find a combination of shims behind the top arm probably a combination of individual washer type shims and shims that span both bolt holes. Make sure if you remove single washer type shims that you remove exactly the same thickness from behind each bolt otherwise you will alter the caster angle.
It will only take removal of a thin shim to make a big difference at the wheel.
You may find that you will need to replace a thicker shim with a thinner one.
 
Toolbox said:
Sweety,
I adjusted my old T2 with a large square, measuring the top and bottom of the wheel rim to the square. You will need to be on very level ground to do it this way though.
You should find a combination of shims behind the top arm probably a combination of individual washer type shims and shims that span both bolt holes. Make sure if you remove single washer type shims that you remove exactly the same thickness from behind each bolt otherwise you will alter the caster angle.
It will only take removal of a thin shim to make a big difference at the wheel.
You may find that you will need to replace a thicker shim with a thinner one.
Was waiting for you to come here!! What kept you?? :lol:
 
There was a thread only a few days ago about a online mannual which HB posted up which will come out top if you do a quick search :wink:
 

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