Caliper Slider Bolts

[Banshee]

Before I freeze my ass off checking, how do the slider bolts come out of the calipers? Are they spanner heads or alan key heads? etc

I need to service my passengers side as the car is pulling to the right under braking, I have a feeling they are seized so I need to get them out, emery cloth them and then copper grease them

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Before I freeze my ass off checking, how do the slider bolts come out of the calipers? Are they spanner heads or alan key heads? etc

I need to service my passengers side as the car is pulling to the right under braking, I have a feeling they are seized so I need to get them out, emery cloth them and then copper grease them

Mine are spanner, they have a lip on the end, that the rubber boot goes over, and just past that lip, it has 2 flats that an open ended spanner fits onto.

Basically, undo the 2 bolts that pass through the calliper into the slider, support the calliper out the way, carefully remove the rubber boot, and then using a load of WD40/what ever, and a spanner on the flats of the slider, gently turn the slider a bit at a time, back and forward until you can turn it completely and pull it out.. don't get too carried away, as if you sheer it off, you are in trouble.

 

[dave123]

Before I freeze my ass off checking, how do the slider bolts come out of the calipers? Are they spanner heads or alan key heads? etc

I need to service my passengers side as the car is pulling to the right under braking, I have a feeling they are seized so I need to get them out, emery cloth them and then copper grease them

it should be a 12mm spanner then remove caliper and they should just slide out . if they are seized once you removed the caliper you can screw the bolt with a nut to lock it to the slider. then grab it with pilers or mole grips and then try and work it out

 

[Banshee]

Thanks for all the help guys

Just to confirm, the bolts were 13mm and came out really easy, the sliders I had less luck with!!!!

They were 17mm and were seized as ****!!!! Had to resort to using my mates gas lance in his van to heat the slider up and then worked the sliders clockwise and anticlockwise until it popped out and then left them in some old engine oil to maintain strength.

150 gritted them off and smacked some copper grease in there, the pull is now less prevalent but still there, I think I need to bleed the brakes again

Which way round should I do this? passengers first and then drivers? Got plenty of DOT4 at the ready

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

I think I need to bleed the brakes again

Which way round should I do this? passengers first and then drivers? Got plenty of DOT4 at the ready

I was taught to start at the one furthest from the master cylinder, and work towards it.

So basically the rear passenger side on the T2, then the rear driver, the the front passenger, and finally the front driver.

If the fluid is old, and I want to change it all, I then tend to repeat the sequence, just to be sure, and make sure all the fluid has flushed through.

 

[Banshee]

I was taught to start at the one furthest from the master cylinder, and work towards it.

So basically the rear passenger side on the T2, then the rear driver, the the front passenger, and finally the front driver.

If the fluid is old, and I want to change it all, I then tend to repeat the sequence, just to be sure, and make sure all the fluid has flushed through.

I've never bled the rears :O I've never exposed the rears to the atmosphere so presumed they would be ok and wouldn't have taken on any air.

What technique do you use to bleed them? I loosen the nipple off, get someone in the car to press the pedal down slowly until it's just fluid coming out and while they are still depressing I screw the nipple back in, once in a then get my helper to loose the pedal back up slowly, then do the next wheel. Once Ive done both I then top up the fluid reservoir

Any better way of doing it?

 

[rustic]

I've never bled the rears :O I've never exposed the rears to the atmosphere so presumed they would be ok and wouldn't have taken on any air.

What technique do you use to bleed them? I loosen the nipple off, get someone in the car to press the pedal down slowly until it's just fluid coming out and while they are still depressing I screw the nipple back in, once in a then get my helper to loose the pedal back up slowly, then do the next wheel. Once Ive done both I then top up the fluid reservoir

Any better way of doing it?

You will need to bleed the rear to, you'll be surprised how dark the fluid has become.

It has been said on this forum, when you are pressing down the brake pedal as you described, not to go to the floor, as you run the risk of damaging the seals in the master cylinder, after all, they have never been that far...

So I suggest placing something like a brick or wood, to prevent your operator from pressing to far.

Sequence I use is:-
Before I start,

Have a spray bottle filled with tap water, to wash any spillage away immediately any gets on the paintwork.
DO NOT use a cloth if you value your paint.

I then remove as much brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder, then top it up with new, cap on... leave it a while for any bubbles to rise, have a cup of tea.


Slowly press the pedal down, then release the nipple, have clear hose on it, into a glass jar, wear safety specs.
When the operator says down, ie not as far as it will go, they should hold...
Then you lightly nip up the nipple.
The operator releases the pedal slowly, and the operation continues.

You should see clearer fluid coming through which shows you have new fluid in the line.

After 5 cycles, have a look at the master cylinder, top up as required.

You are aiming to flush at least 1/2 litre through the whole system, maybe more, when doing a complete change.

Well now I use one of those pressure systems, a forum member got me a cap for the resevoir, and I drilled a hole in that, this way you can do the job single handed.
But to be fair, I do prefer the manual 2 person method.

Also whilst you have some spare fluid over, replace the clutch fluid, that comes out nearly black

Hope it helps,
Best regards,
Rustic

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

As rustic says...

The thing is, Brake fluid is Hygroscopic, so absorbs water, which naturally works it's way along the fluid into the whole system, which is why it should be completely changed every 2 years, especially in the UK with our high humidity. As the water gets heated up in the brakes, it can turn to steam, and basically, break back down into hydrogen and oxygen, so you can have "sort of air" down there, even if you never opened the bleed nipple

I once did a car, where it was a brown slush coming out, where it had not been changed for so long, that it had actually started to rust the brake pipes on the inside. I had to actually take the nipples right out, and pump the sluch out, before I could even start to bleed them.

 

[Lazy-Ferret]

Ohh. and before you start at the back, spray some WD40 on the bleed nipples, and use a socket or ring spanner to try and loosen them, as an open ended might round them, if they are tight.