Calculating Shims to Adjust Wheel Camber

[Banshee]

Right, so here's been loads of talk of this on the forum, I used the search last night and it found pages worth of threads all talking about this going back as far as 2007. The principle of what is to be achieved was clearly defined in all of said threads but no pictures or detailed instructions of what you're actually doing when you get under the motor.

So I've just fitted a new set of Moog Tie Rod ends and had it tracked up yesterday, my toe angles have now been sorted by the camber was out but not too bad, I don't have my exact measurements here with me at the moment but I'll post them up later on.

I have the degrees and minutes values for each wheel, my question now is, how do these degree/minute values then translate into mm values so I know what size shim to add or remove.

Lets say for instance;
Front Left - -1° 21'
Front Right - 0° 17'

What would need doing to correct the camber for the values above which are fictitious that I found from Google

There has to be a calculation somewhere? Please don't just copy and paste a really long load of gibberish from the internet, Maths was never my strong point really but I'm not thick so with a bit of reading I'd understand it and be able to work it out.

Once I've got the maths down, I'll take it to the car and then I'll do a proper write up and it will become a workshop download.

 

[Banshee]

OK so real world measurements from my Hunter Laser measurements

Left Front is 1°46'
Right Front is -0°36'

Someone's got to have been a swat at school?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

 

[Blocky10]

Not me pal. :nenau

 

[elty001]

There's a chart in the manual that gives you all the info you need to work it out.

 

[rustic]

OK so real world measurements from my Hunter Laser measurements

Left Front is 1°46'
Right Front is -0°36'

Someone's got to have been a swat at school?

I was... and still am :thumb2 lol

In simple terms, add a known thickness shim, and measure the new angle, then for small thickness shims you can pro-rata them to get what you want.

Is that simple enough? :nenau

You can do it mathematically if you know the distance between the location of the shims and the lower pivot point.

Hope it helps,
Professor Rustic.

 

[Blocky10]

So you're saying, add a shim to each side, have it re-checked to find out the degree for said added thickness?

 

[solarman216]

So you're saying, add a shim to each side, have it re-checked to find out the degree for said added thickness?

Yep sounds simple enough to me, Rick

 

[makeitfit]

I new it was in the manual but didn't have tinterweb at the unit, sooo, I simply used a good level and noted the bubble position ( camber).
Then slackened off the top arm bolts and put in a modified washer (cut a slot in it ) and popped it in behind said arm. Tightend it up and re read the bubble, got it close enough and repeat for the other side
My suspension is so soft I also have to level the truck horizontally too , otherwise everytime you test camber it will be different :thumbs

 

[Banshee]

There's a chart in the manual that gives you all the info you need to work it out.

You're going to have to talk me through it on Sunday mate because I can't make head or tail of that chart, looks like it needs it own qualification

I don't really fancy toying and keep going back for tests they'll charge me each time and not the quickest thing to set up

 

[elty001]

You're going to have to talk me through it on Sunday mate because I can't make head or tail of that chart, looks like it needs it own qualification

I don't really fancy toying and keep going back for tests they'll charge me each time and not the quickest thing to set up

Ha ha ha now your asking mate,i bought some longer bolts and shims,printed off the chart and used the spirit level method like Pete as it was doing my head in.
:lol

 

[macabethiel]

Will it not affect your castor angle and action ?

Ok it's a long time ago but when I had my 1967 mk1 Cooper 1275 S everyone was going for nice negative camber front suspension. (And on the rear suspension with a change at the same time from toe-in to neutral or to toe-out if you wanted the rear end to break away easily for road rally work, trouble was with this was it could make the vehicle very twitchy at high speed.)

The cheaper negative suspension lower suspension arms sold by the likes of Mini Sport were effectively a standard lower arm with a bit of lengthening added between the point where the lower ball joint fitted and where the other end fitted into the suspension mounting. (No shim option)

I was lucky enough to get a pair of genuine BMC works Special Tuning negative lower suspension arms and on these the "extra length" was between the ball joint fitting and the lower tie bar.

The difference between the two set ups was very noticeable when you came to drive the vehicle as the Special Tuning part restored the loss of castor action in the steering something you really miss when driving fast as I did in those days of mis-spent youth !

Just mention this as you might find changing the camber angle affects the steering return or caster action when driving on the road in normal conditions.

 

[makeitfit]

You are right the Base set up does change both at the same time. Hence the combined use of different shim sizes front and back. Luckily for me I set castor with my adjustable compression rods

 

[macabethiel]

I should have realised you would have thought it through !!

Right good to hear it's been thought of.

One thing that in my view ruins the drive of all the newer Mercedes 350 G Wagon variants is that below 25 mph it appears to have no castor action so you have to pull the steering wheel back when negotiating roundabouts etc.

I haven't noticed it on the one and only 6.3 AMG version I have driven as I was too busy trying to keep the beast under control !

 

[Blocky10]

Found this
Car DIY Magnetic Camber Castor Strut Wheel Alignment Precise Measure Gauge Tool http://r.ebay.com/ymZs0C

Probably shite:lol

 

[makeitfit]

Found this
Car DIY Magnetic Camber Castor Strut Wheel Alignment Precise Measure Gauge Tool http://r.ebay.com/ymZs0C

Probably shite:lol

I've got one, BUT , it's a pain to use in real life
With a raised truck and soft extended suspension, the camber can change in a second just by leaning on the truck.
I couldn't find any where to fit it and do the job :nenau