Bright idea

[Adz]

I've just bought these for my bumper :

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220724117218&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Going to have them on a separate switch & next month i'll get another set for the roof & again on a separate switch

I can then lane in the dark with just the bumper lights on & use the roof lights when water wading in the dark

 

[rustic]

That's a good price, will you be putting a relay in as the current will be in excess of 18 amps?

 

[Adz]

That's a good price, will you be putting a relay in as the current will be in excess of 18 amps?

Yeah i'll be putting 1 in behind the switch so i can get to it easy :thumbs



Just out of dense ness :augie :lol

What happens if you dont use a relay :nenau

 

[Fez_uk]

Nice set. Wonder what the quality is like.

 

[zippy656]

Yeah i'll be putting 1 in behind the switch so i can get to it easy :thumbs



Just out of dense ness :augie :lol

What happens if you dont use a relay :nenau

nice BBQ...

 

[rustic]

Yeah i'll be putting 1 in behind the switch so i can get to it easy :thumbs



Just out of dense ness :augie :lol

What happens if you dont use a relay :nenau

If you don't use a relay, ALL the current has to go through the switch, this may mean running long heavy duty cables with their associated voltage drop.

A relay is essential for front mounted lamps where the heavy duty cable can go from the battery ( Via fuse ) to the relay then to the lamps keeping the expensive heavy duty cable to the shortest length, and reducing voltage drop.
The coil of the relay can be fed from a 12 volt source eg either ignition, or side light supply, via a light duty switch with thin cheap wires.

You could not take the 18 amps direct from say the ignition switch, as this would burn it out or damage the wiring.

Does this help?:nenau

 

[solarman216]

If you don't use a relay, ALL the current has to go through the switch, this may mean running long heavy duty cables with their associated voltage drop.

A relay is essential for front mounted lamps where the heavy duty cable can go from the battery ( Via fuse ) to the relay then to the lamps keeping the expensive heavy duty cable to the shortest length, and reducing voltage drop.
The coil of the relay can be fed from a 12 volt source eg either ignition, or side light supply, via a light duty switch with thin cheap wires.

You could not take the 18 amps direct from say the ignition switch, as this would burn it out or damage the wiring.

Does this help?:nenau

spot on, from rustic, so the relay does not want to go near the switch so you can get at it easy!, it wants to go near the spots to keep the heavy wires short, in a dry place that is, or even a waterproof relay, Rick

 

[Adz]

If you don't use a relay, ALL the current has to go through the switch, this may mean running long heavy duty cables with their associated voltage drop.

A relay is essential for front mounted lamps where the heavy duty cable can go from the battery ( Via fuse ) to the relay then to the lamps keeping the expensive heavy duty cable to the shortest length, and reducing voltage drop.
The coil of the relay can be fed from a 12 volt source eg either ignition, or side light supply, via a light duty switch with thin cheap wires.

You could not take the 18 amps direct from say the ignition switch, as this would burn it out or damage the wiring.

Does this help?:nenau

spot on, from rustic, so the relay does not want to go near the switch so you can get at it easy!, it wants to go near the spots to keep the heavy wires short, in a dry place that is, or even a waterproof relay, Rick

Yes it does & makes sense :thumbs

Havent needed to put spots on me motors before but did know a relay was needed. Didnt know about the positioning of it being important :thumbs :bow

 

[Fez_uk]

let me know what you think of them, Was going to get some but ordering them once roof rails are on.

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

let me know what you think of them, Was going to get some but ordering them once roof rails are on.

are you having a go at fitting the factory fitted type roof rails?

 

[Deleted account DD]

Adz, I dont want to piss on your bonfire but before you drill holes and put a lot of effort into fitting them can I suggest you fasten them on the grill and run the wore direct to the battery one dark evening to test and see if you like them :thumb2

They look remarkably similar to some very c&n lamps my neighbour got for his car.

They looked ok but the beam etc was absolutely CRAP. He ended up binning them and getting a pair of rally giants , not the best lamps in the world but streets ahead of those :doh

 

[zippy656]

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9594&highlight=lights post 15. might be helpfull to some one...

 

[Deleted account DD]

Yes it does & makes sense :thumbs

Havent needed to put spots on me motors before but did know a relay was needed. Didnt know about the positioning of it being important :thumbs :bow

Another BIG advantage is the trigger wire going to the relay is thin and single core so its dead easy to route and cheaper :thumb2

 

[Fez_uk]

are you having a go at fitting the factory fitted type roof rails?

Yes but they are LWB ones on a SWB. Like what makeitfit did. Hopefully I will get somewhere with them this week.

 

[Adz]

Adz, I dont want to piss on your bonfire but before you drill holes and put a lot of effort into fitting them can I suggest you fasten them on the grill and run the wore direct to the battery one dark evening to test and see if you like them :thumb2

They will be tried 1st :thumbs
If there not up to the job then I'll put them on the back for reverse lights / work lights :thumbs

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9594&highlight=lights post 15. might be helpfull to some one...

:thumbs

 

[(RIP) PLANK]

Yes but they are LWB ones on a SWB. Like what makeitfit did. Hopefully I will get somewhere with them this week.

let me know how you get on, i had a look under my headlining last week, and then got bogged down watig time with swaping tyres around and stuff so didn't carry on.

The problem i found, as you may know, is that the roof is just too flimsy to mount the rails securely without some kind or reinforcment underneath, It might be worht bearring this in mind and having something prepared.

I found a quick way to look under the roof lining was to take out the sun visor, unclip the trim that runs from the seat belt to the roof and pull the top of the door seal off, you can then pull the roof lining down enough to have a good nosey underneath.

I asembled the bars and stood them on top and it was apparent that if anyone were to grab one to pull htemselves up when loading the roof it would do some damage to the roof.

might not be an issue if you don't mind a few dents and creases but i am planing to re-enforce the underneath first. If i get it done before you do i will post some pics :thumb2

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

if wading on public rights of way, then if going to have the main headlights
off, i would suggest that as well as the forward roof lights you'll need some
form of tail lights, now as i recall adz you have some roof mounted rear
markers, off a big truck as outline markers, these could do with being
wired into the circuit....to protect yer backend.

 

[The Patrolman]

if wading on public rights of way, then if going to have the main headlights
off, i would suggest that as well as the forward roof lights you'll need some
form of tail lights, now as i recall adz you have some roof mounted rear
markers, off a big truck as outline markers, these could do with being
wired into the circuit....to protect yer backend.

:nenau So that anyone else wading at night with all there lights out can see you infront of them :nenau:naughty

 

[Thomas-the-Terrano2]

well i'm sure they'll know wher you are from the instant day light your creating.

just thinking keep it legal

 

[Adz]

Arrived & tested today & are the nuts :bow :thumbs