Brake line leak

[Fez_uk]

Well I have a break leak on the nearside by the rear suspension arm joint.

Think it could be split in the pipe. Any ideas how to slow the leak? The level in the engine bay is still fine. But I amguessing air bubbles will be replacing the oil.

Think I will book it in asap.

 

[rustic]

Well I have a break leak on the nearside by the rear suspension arm joint.

Think it could be split in the pipe. Any ideas how to slow the leak? The level in the engine bay is still fine. But I amguessing air bubbles will be replacing the oil.

Think I will book it in asap.

If you are sure it is the brakes then keep it off the road, air, water, salt, grit will get in and render the rear brakes inoperative and wrecked. Then the master cylinder.

If you loose the rear brakes, the front on a dual circuit system should work, but not as efficiently, and the pedal will go down further.
However if the seals in the master cylinder are worn, fluid could get past the seal thus rendering your brakes useless.

It is essential you get this fixed immediately

 

[Fez_uk]

its a slow drip. I am at work at the moment. Once I get home I will take it off the road.

Local garage can't get it in untill friday.

 

[TONUP]

Is is the metal brake line or the rubber hose. Both are a fairly simple fix with some inexpensive tools. Might be worth a try?

Alan

 

[Fez_uk]

im 99% sure it's metal. I think the broken section needs to be cut out and replaced?

Is it just copper tube? How would I cut it without getting metal into the break line, Also once cut won't all of it flow out?

 

[ronypony]

Don't cut the pipe....replace the complete length of brake pipe...not a good idea to cut out the leaking section....we are talking the brakes here m8....

 

[rustic]

Don't cut the pipe....replace the complete length of brake pipe...not a good idea to cut out the leaking section....we are talking the brakes here m8....

The ends will need flaring to match the fitting and correct nuts fitted onto pipe before flaring.
To slow brake fluid, place a plastic bag over the brake fluid resevoir then re-fit the cap.
A lot of places can do the fittings and the flaring BUT the length is critical, it is normal to take out the old one as a template, unless they know the vehicle.

Best to change all the fluid at the same time. It is normally DOT 4 but do check.

If you have fluid left over consider changing the clutch fluid.

If in doubt book it in for the work to be done.:thumbs

 

[TONUP]

Replacing the rubber pipe (the last bit before the caliper/drum) is pretty straight forward, unless everything is seized, which is likely. Removing and flaring brake lines is a bit trickier, but not complicated.

It is also acceptable to remove rusted sections and repair them with proper fittings, I have had such work pass an a MOT, however it is (as stated) always better to replace the whole line if possible, but sometimes they take really torturous routes and are very difficult to remove and and replace; therefore costly to do by a garage.

They usually only corrode where they are most exposed as well i.e. around wheel arches etc.

I wasn't trying to give you a wrong steer or endanger you, just trying to save you some dosh.

Regards

Alan

 

[Fez_uk]

had another look, Starting to think it might be diesel. Smells like it.

Going to get under it with some high powered lighting tommorow and give the area a good inspection.

 

[kbekl]

didnt rancho have this problem ?

 

[Fez_uk]

Looked at his past posts, It's in the same area.

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10268&highlight=diesel+leak

All my precious pre vat increase fuel is now going to waste!

 

[Fez_uk]

Ok I found a diagram where I am pretty sure the leak is comming from. It's on one of the four pipes above near anti roll bar link ( they are lines in the diagram). As indicated with the red arrow. I think its one of the 2 top ones.

Any idea what pipes they are.

 

[spiderpig37]

is it the clutch damper pipe? if it has one it runs from the slave cylinder:nenau

 

[kbekl]

is it the clutch damper pipe? if it has one it runs from the slave cylinder:nenau

its near the back axle

 

[R1cho]

from what i can remember both the fuel line and the return line run down that bit along with a brake line

 

[makeitfit]

Yep ||I do believe the fuel supply and return are the top two.
They often rust up there where they go above the chassis rail. Explains why you haven't lost brakes or fluid

 

[R1cho]

when mine was being replaced the return line cracked aswell so also had to be done so keep an eye out for that

 

[Fez_uk]

It seems pretty corroded. As it's probably fuel line I will fix myself. I'd rather get breaks done professionally if needed.

The colour pointed me towards possible break line, But them remembered that beneath is all properly waxoyled. :doh

Does anyone know the diameter of the supply and return pipes? Wishes now I had a pair of digital calipers.

 

[ronypony]

I just had this job done....paid garage £60 to cut out rotten steel fuel line and replaced with rubber...I think if you have the space (which unfortunately I don't) its a pretty easy job...but a lot easier if you have access to a ramp. From memory the fuel line is 8mm...but check this further m8 just to make sure. There is an inspection panel under the carpet in the rear of the truck....easy enough to get to...this lets you un clip the send and return lines from the tank. The first section of both lines is rubber which then connects to the metal pipes that corrode.

Good luck with it....rubber fuel line is readily available from motor factors and or Ebay.

 

[Fez_uk]

I just had this job done....paid garage £60 to cut out rotten steel fuel line and replaced with rubber...I think if you have the space (which unfortunately I don't) its a pretty easy job...but a lot easier if you have access to a ramp. From memory the fuel line is 8mm...but check this further m8 just to make sure. There is an inspection panel under the carpet in the rear of the truck....easy enough to get to...this lets you un clip the send and return lines from the tank. The first section of both lines is rubber which then connects to the metal pipes that corrode.

Good luck with it....rubber fuel line is readily available from motor factors and or Ebay.

Cheers for that.

I noticed the join between metal and the rubber section, Hopefully it's not corroded at the join.
Or did the garage put a new rubber feed straight from return nipple on tank and/or pump?