brake disks
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R1cho
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so what ya sayin is......if i just change the pads its a waste of money, so change the disks, and change the pads, cos if i just change the pads i'm throwing money away because i didn't change the disk aswell and i coukld have changed it at the same time i did the pads but if i didn't do it at the same time as the pads i'll end up changing the disk at some point anyway and no doubt have to change the pads again becaust the groove will put extra wear on them there by making it a awaste of time just changing the pads when i should have changed pads and disk when i was doing the job anyway, is that what you're saying?
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last time I looked Milners were doing discs at under £20 each, not worth the hassel of not doing them if yours are at all suspect, Rick
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tezzer
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yes, lol
R1cho
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well why didn't ya just say that then :augie :lol :lol :lol
Kamsin
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You will often find this on older cars too, i have had a few that had groves in them, if its not too deep it wont make any difference to the braking of the truck, you can add new pads and they will just bed in to the groves in time.
Due to the cost of disks though, as they said its falce economy not to swap them if you can afford it. I would! but if money is tight, it wont matter at all.
Due to the cost of disks though, as they said its falce economy not to swap them if you can afford it. I would! but if money is tight, it wont matter at all.
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Measure the thickness of the discs at several places and see how close they are to the legal minimum.
You can use a vernier, but I put a nut on each side of the vernier, so that you can get to measure the disc not the ridge that is left around the circumference.
You can buy some EBC pads that have an abbrasive on them, to bed them in quicker and to wear off some minor ridges on the discs.
When fitting new pads, &/or discs bed them in as they will be useless for the first 100-200 miles.
I burnish them....
On a quiet road, get up to 30 mph, and slow the car down using the brakes lightly as if driving on ice. Drive for say 1/2 mile to allow the disc to cool, then do it again, and again.
Avoid heavy braking.
I did this with the wife's picasso last week, new pads and discs, and I drove 14 miles, eventually slowing down from 50 mph, using harder braking as you would slow for a wet roundabout.
I checked them twice during the bedding in, and you could smell the brakes.
Now at least you have some brakes, BUT still avoid heavy braking for the next 100 miles as they are still bedding in.
If you don't do this, then you may get grooves in the new discs.
If you replace the discs on the Terrano, it is quite a job, as it involves removing the Hubs, snap rings, and wheel bearing, and then you will need to adjust the bearing after.
HINT: Do not push back the drive shaft from the hub, as it is a pig to get it back in, Brute force and swearing seems to work best for this. NOT Hammers...
Opportunity to grease the wheel bearings and hub.
Plenty of down loads on all this.
Special tools required... A 1/2" drive 6mm AF allen key and torque wrench for the hubs as the bolts can easily shear.
The bearing adjuster is a brilliant piece of fine engineering, it consists of a very fine pitched round nut that you can easily tighten with a pair of round screw drivers or flattened off nails, before putting back the small pozidrive screw to lock it in place. There has to be a pre-load on the bearing which takes out virtually all the play in the wheel bearing.
Disc replacement can take 2 hours per side, so allow enough time.
Hope this helps,
Best regards, Rustic
You can use a vernier, but I put a nut on each side of the vernier, so that you can get to measure the disc not the ridge that is left around the circumference.
You can buy some EBC pads that have an abbrasive on them, to bed them in quicker and to wear off some minor ridges on the discs.
When fitting new pads, &/or discs bed them in as they will be useless for the first 100-200 miles.
I burnish them....
On a quiet road, get up to 30 mph, and slow the car down using the brakes lightly as if driving on ice. Drive for say 1/2 mile to allow the disc to cool, then do it again, and again.
Avoid heavy braking.
I did this with the wife's picasso last week, new pads and discs, and I drove 14 miles, eventually slowing down from 50 mph, using harder braking as you would slow for a wet roundabout.
I checked them twice during the bedding in, and you could smell the brakes.
Now at least you have some brakes, BUT still avoid heavy braking for the next 100 miles as they are still bedding in.
If you don't do this, then you may get grooves in the new discs.
If you replace the discs on the Terrano, it is quite a job, as it involves removing the Hubs, snap rings, and wheel bearing, and then you will need to adjust the bearing after.
HINT: Do not push back the drive shaft from the hub, as it is a pig to get it back in, Brute force and swearing seems to work best for this. NOT Hammers...
Opportunity to grease the wheel bearings and hub.
Plenty of down loads on all this.
Special tools required... A 1/2" drive 6mm AF allen key and torque wrench for the hubs as the bolts can easily shear.
The bearing adjuster is a brilliant piece of fine engineering, it consists of a very fine pitched round nut that you can easily tighten with a pair of round screw drivers or flattened off nails, before putting back the small pozidrive screw to lock it in place. There has to be a pre-load on the bearing which takes out virtually all the play in the wheel bearing.
Disc replacement can take 2 hours per side, so allow enough time.
Hope this helps,
Best regards, Rustic
