brake bleeding

[61jason61]

hi peeps, tried to check the briggies owners and workshop manuals link and its server error??

going to change a few bits, including discs and calipers, as when i did the hub change to get 4x4 drive working i noticed the first piston went in quite easy using a large wood clamp with plastic grips, slides to tight then twist handle to ease the piston in, went in easily. the second started to bend the clamp:nenau, the motor i've been robbing at local scrappy had good ones i noticed when i got the hub, so bought the pair for £40. both pistons move easily and freely on both as would be hoped for.

now i'm guessing if i don't lose to much fluid out of my system i only need to bleed the front brakes, passenger then driver? as usually furthest to nearest from brake reservoir if i remember right.

or do i need to do all four wheels ?

 

[rustic]

To reduce fluid loss, unscrew cap on fluid resevoir, place clean plasic bag over top, replace screw cap.

Don't forget to remove after fitting the calliper.
I always do this, and never lose much at all.

HINT:-
take care when fitting front calipers that you choose the correct side for the vehicle...The bleed nipple is at the top, and one member had issues bleeding the brakes as he later found that they were upside down..:doh

 

[61jason61]

To reduce fluid loss, unscrew cap on fluid resevoir, place clean plasic bag over top, replace screw cap.


HINT:-
take care when fitting front calipers that you choose the correct side for the vehicle...The bleed nipple is at the top, and one member had issues bleeding the brakes as he later found that they were upside down..:doh

like the bag idea, and wrapped and labeled everything as i removed it lol. jacking up on front stands and doing hub and disc bolts lossening then only one wheel at a time to keep it simple:lol

 

[Banshee]

To reduce fluid loss, unscrew cap on fluid resevoir, place clean plasic bag over top, replace screw cap.

Don't forget to remove after fitting the calliper.
I always do this, and never lose much at all.

HINT:-
take care when fitting front calipers that you choose the correct side for the vehicle...The bleed nipple is at the top, and one member had issues bleeding the brakes as he later found that they were upside down..:doh

I wonder who that was :doh

That's what happens when you're sold dodgy parts :lol

 

[61jason61]

hi, have changed passenger side calliper, only bled this one, still getting air and poor pressure. guessing its all four back to front need bleeding to sort system?

 

[frosty]

When I did mine I had a right job getting the air out, I ended up starting bleeding from the in-line joint on one of the pipes that run from the front to back, then furthest wheel to nearest, then I finally got it sorted!!

 

[solarman216]

I do not normally try and undo the bleeds screws, front calipers I remove and pump the brake pedal a few time to extend the pistons and leave them dangling on the hose with a block of wood under to remove hose strain, while in this state I change the pads and have a clean up, then when ready to refit calipers compress the pistons with G cramps so pushing fluid and air back up to the master cyl, fit caliper and pump brake till hard, then do the next,have adopted the same procedure even when changing the piston rubbers, never a problem, same applies to rears as long as the reservoir is kept topped up remove a brake cyl and with the pistons fully in reconnect the pipe, then allow the pistons to fully extend on the dust boots allow it to stand a while like this, (air rises into the pipe) then compress the pistons fully in, any air will end up at the master cyl, Rick

 

[61jason61]

should i bleed with engine running? i know alternator runs brake vaccumn? so would it bleed easier? gonna try that way shortly.

 

[solarman216]

should i bleed with engine running? i know alternator runs brake vaccumn? so would it bleed easier? gonna try that way shortly.

no advantage at all, see my post earlier, I have just changed a front caliper, filled it with fluid via the hose connection, removed hose from old caliper, fluid running out, connect quickly the new caliper, pump brake pedal 4 times, check that both pistons are extruding in my case one was not so put G cramp on it to stop it moving further them pumped 4 more on the pedal, both pistons around 2 thirds of the way out, G cramp each piston back fully home all air is now vented via master cyl, reassemble caliper, pump pedal till hard usually around 4 to 6 pumps, job done, Rick

 

[61jason61]

brakes sorted.

ok turns out owner of vehicle at scrap yard was either bodged or ripped off or stupid.

i didn't notice when fitting that the passenger side caliper had bleed nipple at bottom, so air was staying at top of caliper. turns out the %$^% had fitted two DRIVERS Calipers to his truck.

managed to get old one working right, as one piston was stuck or seized hence changing, refitted, mole grips carefuly on brake hose, filled caliper with fluid, fitted hose back on and quick bleed and i have full brakes again.

 

[rustic]

ok turns out owner of vehicle at scrap yard was either bodged or ripped off or stupid.

i didn't notice when fitting that the passenger side caliper had bleed nipple at bottom, so air was staying at top of caliper. turns out the %$^% had fitted two DRIVERS Calipers to his truck.

managed to get old one working right, as one piston was stuck or seized hence changing, refitted, mole grips carefuly on brake hose, filled caliper with fluid, fitted hose back on and quick bleed and i have full brakes again.

Well not bragging but... within 9 minutes of your original post, (see post 2) the issue of the caliper fitted to the wrong side was raised with the nipple at the bottom...

:thumb2
Glad you are now sorted.

:clap:clap