Another Tale of Terrano Starting Woes

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nimbinbid

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2011
Messages
52
Hi all,

sad to say I only stop in here when something needs fixing, but there you go.

For the last few months m 1999 TDi would intermittently start by key, with no sign of life at other times. Changed the switch behind the ignition barrel. went well for a while, then the problem surfaced again. We've just gone through some record flooding here in Aus and it's still raining, so was happy to have the local workshop look at the problem.

A new battery and starter motor later, imagine my disappointment at having to clutch start the old girl backwards out of the workshop. At least I also had the option of a lead from the pos terminal straight to starter. Not ideal, but great when there's no convenient slope to [park on.

Got a break from a neighbor today. He's a retired electrician and was able to trace the fault back to the ignition switch connector behind the barrel. Jiggling the connector while the key is in with ignition on seems to do the trick. Packed up at that point when the rain set back in. Back to work tomorrow, all going well with the over night rain and was wondering if I should look for another switch online or assume that just crimping the spade connectors might do the trick?
 
If you have changed the switch for a new one then check the crimp terminals on the wires, if it was a used switch then it probably has the same fault as the old one, new switches can be had on Ebay very cheap, Rick
 
Hi Rick,

Thanks for getting back so quick.

Switch was new from ebay, guess I have to trust that it's ok. Would have checked crimps on connector yesterday but for the rain. 4 to 12 inches later, it's still raining. Hopefully I'll be able to get onto this again in a few days. Sure would be great to get this issue sorted with a simple fix like crimping the terminals. cheers, Roy
 
Hi Rick,

Thanks for getting back so quick.

Switch was new from ebay, guess I have to trust that it's ok. Would have checked crimps on connector yesterday but for the rain. 4 to 12 inches later, it's still raining. Hopefully I'll be able to get onto this again in a few days. Sure would be great to get this issue sorted with a simple fix like crimping the terminals. cheers, Roy

You not got windows and doors on the rig? :lol
 
The new switches on ebay are crap I think.

My friends failed within months, although he suspected it might of got damp. Anyway worth keeping in mind.
 
Hi there,

I mucked around with the connector today (yay, the sun's out again) without improvement and am concerned that I might make things worse and end up stranded, so I've decided to book an auto electrician. Thankfully, after two 1 in 100 year floods within a month, there are still some auto electricians in business. Feels somewhat defeatist but what with second guessing the current condition of my eBay switch I feel ready to have another mind look at it. Thanks for the suggestions etc.
 
You can prove the switch by pulling the connectors off the back and using link wires to simulate the switch operation, if it turns the motor without fault then it is the switch if it still plays about it is a connector some place else, if you want to know the wires to connect let me know and I will look at a switch tomorrow, you only need to connect power to the ignition and flash the start wire, the rest have no significance re the starter, make sure the key is in the barrel or NATS will complain, the ignition needs to be on as there is a relay between the switch and the starter, if you want to find the relay pull the wire off the starter then you will be able to hear the relay click, Rick
 
Went to start the car today and it started no worries. Same again at the auto electrician, a half a dozen successful starts in succession before it started to play up again. Cheapest solution was to have a starter button installed.

Thanks for your suggestion Rick, unfortunately I had too many other jobs to catch up with over the weekend. Now I'm just glad to have it sorted. At least I hope it is, time will tell.
 
Drove from auto electrician to work, about 40 ks, then around town. no probs, started fine. On the way home, while negotiating a landslip, the engine lost power. Between landslips I could change up to 3rd. The engine didn't give up but wouldn't rev out. Don't think there was any smoke or the smell of a burning clutch. couldn't just stop as I had a other vehicles following.

Got home the last 5 ks and can't see anything obviously wrong. Engine idles fine.

May be time to start a new thread.
 
Mmmmm you should have a fault code for that, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? restricted filter will not throw a code I would change it anyway then cut it open just to confirm, Rick
 
Mil light is still lit from a brake switch issue. Hadn't been game to clear it in case the downloadable pin code didn't match up with my car.

In the meantime I've ordered a fuel filter and will report back once it's changed.
 
Do the paper clip jobbie and clear the codes then drive the car till it faults again then read the codes via the paper clip, no need for pin codes, Rick
 
Changed air and fuel filter this afternoon, but now getting heaps of white smoke. Got a bit obsessed with the priming pump, reasoning there must be air in the system, just another push on the primer. Seems as if the plastic primer itself has sprung a leak. Could be much worse, as the fuel filter spewed out semi solid chunks and possibly some got further down the system.

MIL light went off with the filter change and then would come and go depending on how poorly the engine idled. Will check for a fault code tomorrow.
 
Loads white smoke !!!!! could be your injectors are suffering dirt, to check this remove the injector pipes and spin the engine over on the starter, if fuel spits out of the injector pipe connections then your injectors and pump are goosed, Rick
 
Gasp!!!! Loads.

Do you mean disconnect the scavenger pipes or the feed pipes and will it entail removing the intercooler?

Weekend tomorrow, so weather permitting I'll have some more time. Thought the banjo bolt fuel filter might be worth checking first, if only because it's likely to be a less rain sensitive job. Given that the doors and windows still work, there's also a good chance of retrieving a fault code.

Who knows, she might yet live.
 
Yes the feed pipes, to be sure they need to be right out of the way but do not bend them, yes intercooler off as well, Rick
 
Just lost a more detailed post after clicking the quick post button. Our modern internet seems dodgier than than the old dial up variety.
Not the best angle, but I couldn't see anything squirting while I reached through the driver's window to turn the motor as I peered under the bonnet . Gave it a couple of go's. No squirting detected, but might be done better with 2 people as the areas around the injector connections were wetter than when I started.
How much diesel am I looking for? Is any too much?
Done for today - Roy
 
The injectors in this situation only contain residual fuel, what you are looking for is air from the compression blowing the fuel out indicating the needle is not seating, it might only do it once or twice before all the fuel is gone, if this happens just top the injectors up again so that all have fuel to the top, yes 2 people are better as it will happen very quickly, any fuel movement from the injectors means they are bad, Rick
 
Couldn't see any thing blowing out from top of injectors. In fact there's still residual fuel. Checked banjo bolt, but no spring or filter to be found. Removed fuel filter, looks clean inside, diesel was clean too.

While priming fuel filter, noticed one of the scavenge pipes had come off and the metal stem was gurgling diesel as I pumped. Reconnected pipe and finished primping. By this time extra hands were gone. so unable to redo the injector test in case it made a difference.

Any thoughts, where to from here? Roy
 

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