Alternator Belt Adjustment

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jims-terrano

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2004
Messages
12,956
Finally got around to checking the fan belt on my truck and found it as floppy as a floppy thing. Was going to replace in the warmer weather when I replace the water pump.
So decided I would adjust it for now:doh

Top bolt on the slider bar no problem sorted.

Bottom bolt on passenger side of the alternator at the front is rock solid and can't seem to find much room to losen it.

Rear nut on passenger side of alternator came loose easily too.

So can't shift the alternator so this lower front bolt needs slackening.

First of all I have got the correct bolts haven't I, they are the ones to adjust it.
Secondly how the heck do I get this lower front bolt slackened off, I thought it was one long bolt but it appears solid despite slackening the rear nut.
Thirdly, pretty sure I've got correct bolts as they're 14mm.

Cheers guys
 
Not sure of your exact mounting arrangement but......

Often just slackening the slider bar bolts will enable you to move the alternator body sufficiently to adjust the alternator without having to slacken the alternator fixing bolts . When I last did one I used a large screwdriver to lever the alternator to take up some tension.

Often the alternator bolts are mounted with a type of dowel in place or rubber bush to reduce vibration from the engine and to allow movement during belt adjustment.

If you are unlucky then you have to loosen the difficult nut if your is solid mounted.
 
just adjusting the belt, I have never needed to undo the lower ones, just a big bar and lever it away, Rick
 
Had a quick look at this again today but the alternator wont budge. So I took the car down to the garage for the excess oil taking out and asked if they could take a quick look at the same time.
When I picked it up he said that they can't shift it either. He thinks the alternator will need removing to free it off.

Am I correct in thinking that there is only one lower bolt that goes all the way through the mounting?

Any advice appreciated
 
Oh dear, thinks "alternator will need removing to free it off" well after loosening the bottom bolt there is nothing to be gained by removing it! yes Jim it is one long bolt, I cannot imagine why it cannot be undone, unless you have second battery at the front, otherwise access is very good, Rick
 
It's not one of those where the nut is actually fixed permanently and you undo the bolt end is it, if you know what I'm getting at ??
 
Err yes I have the second battery behind passenger headlamp and it does hangover towards the two AC pipes.

The top bolt/nut on the slider is easy.

The bottom bolt is the pain. I can slacken the nut at the rear of the bolt near the turbo area. The actual bolt head is at the front and that one will not budge at all even when the nut is slack. I'm tempted to see if I can slacken the nut and then gently get a hammer in their and give the end of the bolt a tap.

If this doesn't work I'll bite the bullet and order a water pump and belts. Then replace the water pump this coming weekend so I should have a lot more room to play with as the radiator and hoses can be removed. The water pump does need replacing but I was going to leave it until the warmer weather.
 
It's not one of those where the nut is actually fixed permanently and you undo the bolt end is it, if you know what I'm getting at ??

Captive nut is what I call that, usually welded in some way.
 
No no captive nut, sounds like the bolt has corroded into the front alternator bracket it is ally and bolt steel, spray it for a couple of days with penetrating oil, better still if you have some is cellulose thinners it unsticks corroded ally fast, Rick
 
I got plus gas so that'll help to soak and release them. Will give it a smear of copper slip once released and cleaned up.
 
For the bottom bolt, my regular favoured spanners were not fit for purpose. I then searched around a box full of misc. items that once resemble tools and found a smaller in length size 14 spanner (15cm long) and it allowed me to have just enough space to loosen the bottom bolt. That spanner has now been upgraded to exclusive tool status, i.e. one that I have on board the jeep.
 
For the bottom bolt, my regular favoured spanners were not fit for purpose. I then searched around a box full of misc. items that once resemble tools and found a smaller in length size 14 spanner (15cm long) and it allowed me to have just enough space to loosen the bottom bolt. That spanner has now been upgraded to exclusive tool status, i.e. one that I have on board the jeep.

I've got a few of those now!!! :naughty
 
Just go's to prove that Bigger is not always better :lol:lol:lol
 
Well went out this morning and picked up all three drive belts and a new water pump complete with green anti freeze.

Went out to the truck complete with big mug of tea. Lifted the bonnet and slackened the alternator adjusting bolt and just thought that I would have a go at adjusting the belt and sure enough Plus Gas has worked it's magic. Happy days tight belt again and back to plan a for the water pump. Will leave that for the warmer weather which will also allow me to flush the cooling system several times without worrying about the coolant freezing.

Happy bunny:clap
 
Well went out this morning and picked up all three drive belts and a new water pump complete with green anti freeze.

Went out to the truck complete with big mug of tea. Lifted the bonnet and slackened the alternator adjusting bolt and just thought that I would have a go at adjusting the belt and sure enough Plus Gas has worked it's magic. Happy days tight belt again and back to plan a for the water pump. Will leave that for the warmer weather which will also allow me to flush the cooling system several times without worrying about the coolant freezing.

Happy bunny:clap

You could have done all of that in one go :naughty :augie
 
The one tip I ill give that Rick showed me is, when replacing the new water pump, you will find it bolts downwards, and also backwards onto the front of the engine, so basically you have bolts passing through in both planes. When you are ready to put it all back together, and have both the mating surfaces clean, put the liquid gasket on and start to fix it back together but do not do either sets of bolts up tight, give it a few mind fir the edges of the liquid gasket to go off, then slowly tighten the bolts evenly,making sure it pulls down in both directions at the same time. This helps the seal work a lot better and the times I have done it that way I have not had a leak later.

If you just tighten the front bolts, then the top bolts, it invariably leaks from one of the joins a few week later.

Oh and be aware of the hidden bolt on the front bottom!!!

Sent from my SM-T705 using Tapatalk
 

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