Adjustable Panhard Rod

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R1cho

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2010
Messages
4,200
well today i remembered that whe i lifted the old truck the rear wheels didn't sit the same on both sides of the truck, hmmmm i thought i wonde how i can fix this, after a bit of asking questions and research teh culprit is the panhard rod, so i decided i would make an adjustable one,

Ingredients

Doner Panhard Rod
Track Rod Ends
Grinder
Welder
Swearing

I took the panhard rod off the old chassis and cut the end off

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and cut off about the same ammount that the legnth of the track rod ends are, m8y boy james cut the ball joint ends off the track rod end for me, infact it was his idea to use the track rod ends so big cheers to him for the input.

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then we welded the trackrod ends into the panhard rod

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when we were sure the welds were strong enough (big hammer testing required) we fir it back onto the old chassis and gave it a twirl, and it worked just fine :cool:

so now when i do lift the new truck it will also have an adjustable panhard rod :cool:
 
Good work mate well done :D I hope the nuts will actually undo :lol
I like :clap
 
that looks like a real good mod, but to be honest I think I would have gone for a much heavier adjuster, if that breaks holy shi*, not knocking just being cautious, Rick
 
that looks like a real good mod, but to be honest I think I would have gone for a much heavier adjuster, if that breaks holy shi*, not knocking just being cautious, Rick

i do see your point but the wall of the adjuster is about 1mm thicker than the wall of the panhard rod
 
i do see your point but the wall of the adjuster is about 1mm thicker than the wall of the panhard rod

agreed but you are relying on a tension weld, not the best, bigger surface area = greater strength, just a thought, think I would have gone for a bolt size the same as the rod and used a tube between the two, just my over the top better safe than sorry attitude, Rick
 
agreed but you are relying on a tension weld, not the best, bigger surface area = greater strength, just a thought, think I would have gone for a bolt size the same as the rod and used a tube between the two, just my over the top better safe than sorry attitude, Rick

aye i see what you are saying and that is why on the ends of the bolts that are inside the rod there are nuts welded on that had to be hammered in ;)
 
aye i see what you are saying and that is why on the ends of the bolts that are inside the rod there are nuts welded on that had to be hammered in ;)

that reminds me of when in the 70's I started work for a commercial vehicle garage, this was when plating and testing first came in for trucks, the owners test for brakes was jack the wheel and put a 6ft pole on the wheel nut, apply brakes and if you could not turn the wheel then they were good, :doh:doh, I say no more, Rick
 
that reminds me of when in the 70's I started work for a commercial vehicle garage, this was when plating and testing first came in for trucks, the owners test for brakes was jack the wheel and put a 6ft pole on the wheel nut, apply brakes and if you could not turn the wheel then they were good, :doh:doh, I say no more, Rick

i cant think how best to explain it, but it is safe and wont be going anywhere, i'll try a draw a diagram for you tomorrow
 
i cant think how best to explain it, but it is safe and wont be going anywhere, i'll try a draw a diagram for you tomorrow

not in anyway doubting you but for such an important part of the system I would want to be very sure, Rick
 

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