Heating Woes

Banshee · 24-11-2020, 10:32

Having some problems with our heating at home at the moment and due to my inherent nature of not trusting anyone else I'm determined to fix this myself as I refuse to believe it's anything difficult.

We live in 2 year old property with an Ideal Logic ESP 35 Combi Boiler in the kitchen, it provides all of the hot water from the taps and controlling the heating we have two Danfoss TP5000SI Thermostats one for the downstairs heating and another in the master bedroom for the upstairs heating.

We started getting an issue with one of the radiators not heating up in the study upstairs where the girlfriend is working from home at the moment so myself and my brother did a bleed of the system and turned all the heating on and shut the valves on the radiators downstairs which seemed to sort everything out for a week or so.

We have now lost ALL heating upstairs and following the same procedure as before suspecting it was the same issue, we bled all of the radiators again but this time with no effect. My brother was fairly confident that we had airlocked the system so we drained the system fully last night via the radiator closest to the boiler in the kitchen with a hose out the back door, we then opened up all of the bleed valves on each radiator, balanced the system and then re-filled the system and bled again. We weren't able to force any air out of the system at all and got a clear stream of water from every radiator and towel rail

The heating downstairs works fine and as soon as you manually flick the temp up past the ambient temp on the stat, you get the audible click from it and almost instantly, the boiler will kick into life and a few mins later, hot rads.

We do not get the same upstairs, we get the audible click from the stat again but the boiler just does not respond no matter how long we leave it on.

We're a little confused by this as now it appears that we have had two separate issues

I'm thinking that the stat must now be at fault as it isn't communicating with the boiler

I've read that there is a wireless version of my stat which we def don't have, our appears to be the hard wired version.

I'm out of ideas and hoping you boys might be able to advise a few things that I may not have thought of yet.......

My plan of action this eve is to get home and swap the stats around thus proving if that is where the fault lies

If that is the case I'll be a happy chappy as they are only £40 on Amazon

Please help!!! Her indoors is FREEZING

elty001 · 24-11-2020, 20:18

Not a clue mate but Dougie might be able to point you in the right direction

Flying Torquewrench · 25-11-2020, 16:04

Zac, first of all a disclaimer that I am not a heating engineer!!

We had a similar issue in a previous house. Turned out that one of the diverter valves failed. When we turned the thermostat up, you would hear the ‘click’ but because the valve didn’t run to its open position, it send no signal to the boiler to fire up.

Below is a link to a picture of a diverter valve.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-V...96607850&psc=1

There is a manual override on them. Move the little lever to the other side and see if the boiler fires up.

rayf3262 · 25-11-2020, 17:32

Generally you will find that the thermostat activates the zone valve and subsequently a micro switch in the zone valve actually switches the boiler on.

Banshee · 26-11-2020, 01:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flying Torquewrench

Zac, first of all a disclaimer that I am not a heating engineer!!

We had a similar issue in a previous house. Turned out that one of the diverter valves failed. When we turned the thermostat up, you would hear the ‘click’ but because the valve didn’t run to its open position, it send no signal to the boiler to fire up.

Below is a link to a picture of a diverter valve.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-V...96607850&psc=1

There is a manual override on them. Move the little lever to the other side and see if the boiler fires up.

You nailed it mate well done although I'd already come to this conclusion after TDoug put me onto the trail last night. Turns out the Danfoss HSA2 actuator was broken for the upstairs diverter valve

Took it off this evening and out of the system and opened it up in the garage and although there were 2 pieces of plastic broken off inside and when I tried to move it into manual the lever just flopped around

I've ordered a new one from Amazon and should be here on Saturday

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayf3262

Generally you will find that the thermostat activates the zone valve and subsequently a micro switch in the zone valve actually switches the boiler on.

I turned the stat on in the bedroom upstairs only and had the valve open and it didn't fire the boiler up downstairs although I did get the click on the stat.

It appeared that the boiler only kicked in when the valve was opened so I presume it is the flow that turns the boiler on and operates the heating temp by regulating the flow of water??? I'm not sure

panelbeater · 27-11-2020, 19:35

you need the pump to start befor the boiler will fire up.i know this because last friday my boiler did not come on,i bled all bleeders in system as it happened once when i had the new gas boiler fitted but next day would not fire up.all controls were asking for heat.i got the fitter out and it was air in system said that is commen.well as i said last friday no heating so called him out and it turned out that my pump was not working although all lights were on,he pulled live lead off then put back and pump came on,no charge to me but told me what to do if it happens again and pump needs to pump to start boiler.well it happened again thursday so pulled feed and repluged and all ok again but i will need a new pump fitted.mine has a computer in it which needs rebooting and they stopped making this pump as it proved a bad design.its only 8 years old but rather replace befor full failier.

panelbeater · 27-11-2020, 19:39

bit off topic there as yours turned out to be a 2 way valve wich if only 2 years old is a poor show.but at least she will be warm.

Flying Torquewrench · 30-11-2020, 22:19

Zac, did the new valve fix your issue?

Banshee · 01-12-2020, 11:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flying Torquewrench

Zac, did the new valve fix your issue?

It did indeed

Actuator arrived on Saturday morn, I cut the electric and cut the cable down to size and reinstalled as per the old one.

Fired the boiler back up and dialled up the thermostat in the bedroom, went downstairs and the boiler kicked in as expected, back upstairs a few mins later and the radiators were all toasty hot again

I've brought a bottle of 500ml Feronox F1 Inhibitor that I plan on adding to the system one night after work this week, apparently it's as easy and draining the towel rail down a little bit and pouring it in the top and running the system again then perform one last bleed

Thanks for the help guys

24-11-2020, 10:32	#1
Banshee Moderator Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: West Midlands Vehicle: 04 2.7 SWB Terrano II Van Posts: 13,526	Heating Woes Having some problems with our heating at home at the moment and due to my inherent nature of not trusting anyone else I'm determined to fix this myself as I refuse to believe it's anything difficult. We live in 2 year old property with an Ideal Logic ESP 35 Combi Boiler in the kitchen, it provides all of the hot water from the taps and controlling the heating we have two Danfoss TP5000SI Thermostats one for the downstairs heating and another in the master bedroom for the upstairs heating. We started getting an issue with one of the radiators not heating up in the study upstairs where the girlfriend is working from home at the moment so myself and my brother did a bleed of the system and turned all the heating on and shut the valves on the radiators downstairs which seemed to sort everything out for a week or so. We have now lost ALL heating upstairs and following the same procedure as before suspecting it was the same issue, we bled all of the radiators again but this time with no effect. My brother was fairly confident that we had airlocked the system so we drained the system fully last night via the radiator closest to the boiler in the kitchen with a hose out the back door, we then opened up all of the bleed valves on each radiator, balanced the system and then re-filled the system and bled again. We weren't able to force any air out of the system at all and got a clear stream of water from every radiator and towel rail The heating downstairs works fine and as soon as you manually flick the temp up past the ambient temp on the stat, you get the audible click from it and almost instantly, the boiler will kick into life and a few mins later, hot rads. We do not get the same upstairs, we get the audible click from the stat again but the boiler just does not respond no matter how long we leave it on. We're a little confused by this as now it appears that we have had two separate issues I'm thinking that the stat must now be at fault as it isn't communicating with the boiler I've read that there is a wireless version of my stat which we def don't have, our appears to be the hard wired version. I'm out of ideas and hoping you boys might be able to advise a few things that I may not have thought of yet....... My plan of action this eve is to get home and swap the stats around thus proving if that is where the fault lies If that is the case I'll be a happy chappy as they are only £40 on Amazon Please help!!! Her indoors is FREEZING __________________ Moderator 04' Terrano II SE 2.7 TDi SWB Commercial in Silver - Project Thread Toyo Open Country M/T 33's on 10J Steels, Super Strong Steering Job Navara D22 Snorkel, Front LOKKA, Maunal Hubs, EGR Blank TunitII ECU Chip, 3" Body Lift, 2" Suss Lift, Heat Exchanger Black Interior, 3.0 Borg&Beck Clutch, Eckes Heated Fuel Filter 99' Y61 Patrol GR SE 2.8 TD6 LWB in Blue/Silver - Project Thread Engine Transplant - In Progress!!! Last edited by Banshee; 24-11-2020 at 10:44.

25-11-2020, 17:32	#4
rayf3262 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Norfolk, Poringland NR14 Vehicle: Terrano 3.0 SVE 2002 Posts: 1,549	Generally you will find that the thermostat activates the zone valve and subsequently a micro switch in the zone valve actually switches the boiler on. __________________ Remember what the dormouse said: Feed your head....

24-11-2020, 20:18	#2
elty001 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Aflreton,Derbyshire. Vehicle: 2000se+ 2.7tdi terrano II Posts: 6,832	Not a clue mate but Dougie might be able to point you in the right direction

25-11-2020, 16:04	#3
Flying Torquewrench Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Worcestershire Vehicle: Nissan Patrol Y61 2.8TD Posts: 1,152	Zac, first of all a disclaimer that I am not a heating engineer!! We had a similar issue in a previous house. Turned out that one of the diverter valves failed. When we turned the thermostat up, you would hear the ‘click’ but because the valve didn’t run to its open position, it send no signal to the boiler to fire up. Below is a link to a picture of a diverter valve. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-V...96607850&psc=1 There is a manual override on them. Move the little lever to the other side and see if the boiler fires up.

27-11-2020, 19:35	#6
panelbeater Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: clacton on sea essex Vehicle: nissan terrano 2 2.7 tdi Posts: 1,638	you need the pump to start befor the boiler will fire up.i know this because last friday my boiler did not come on,i bled all bleeders in system as it happened once when i had the new gas boiler fitted but next day would not fire up.all controls were asking for heat.i got the fitter out and it was air in system said that is commen.well as i said last friday no heating so called him out and it turned out that my pump was not working although all lights were on,he pulled live lead off then put back and pump came on,no charge to me but told me what to do if it happens again and pump needs to pump to start boiler.well it happened again thursday so pulled feed and repluged and all ok again but i will need a new pump fitted.mine has a computer in it which needs rebooting and they stopped making this pump as it proved a bad design.its only 8 years old but rather replace befor full failier.

27-11-2020, 19:39	#7
panelbeater Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: clacton on sea essex Vehicle: nissan terrano 2 2.7 tdi Posts: 1,638	bit off topic there as yours turned out to be a 2 way valve wich if only 2 years old is a poor show.but at least she will be warm.

30-11-2020, 22:19	#8
Flying Torquewrench Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Worcestershire Vehicle: Nissan Patrol Y61 2.8TD Posts: 1,152	Zac, did the new valve fix your issue?